Im looking for 400 plus HP
ORIGINAL: praetorian2150
Hey guys Im new to the audi community. Ill be purchasing a b5 a4 01 during the summer and Im looking to put 400 plus HP on her. Can anyone tell me what I need to achieve those numbers. I recently switched my views from a mustang to an a4 so I have no knowledge on import tuning and performance. Thanks for the help guys.
Hey guys Im new to the audi community. Ill be purchasing a b5 a4 01 during the summer and Im looking to put 400 plus HP on her. Can anyone tell me what I need to achieve those numbers. I recently switched my views from a mustang to an a4 so I have no knowledge on import tuning and performance. Thanks for the help guys.
Did he just called us an "import tuning"
You'll need a big turbo, a GT2871R or bigger. A GT35R is definitely overkill. A .64 GT30 series would put you close if not over that mark. A T3/T4 variant could get you there, also.
You might get the ATP Eliminator kit, which uses the stock manifold, and can use the stock downpipe and airbox I guess. Or you might want a new exhaust manifold. Not imperative. You'll also need injectors, exhaust, front-mount, clutch, some kind of intake contraption, and most importantly: Tuning. You will have a tough time finding tuning outside of Unitronics, which is promising to the nDBW (non-Drive By Wire) Audi community but not yet proven, or some other custom/dyno-standalone engine management tune.
Also, at that power level, rods are an issue on the 1.8T. That's all, though. Tranny is more beefy than anything any tuner has been able to throw at it yet, and the stock bottom end is stable at those power levels.
Check out audizine.com, ask the question at audigeeks.com, and browse http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release041205.htm
Talk to the Renn-Art rep who posts here.
And good luck. A big turbo four-cylinder AWD sedan is quite a bit different from a V8 rear-drive coupe.
EDIT: Went back and noticed you want to buy an '01. Well, 2000-and-up A4s are drive-by-wire, which presents different tuning obstacles for whomever you pay to make your car run right. I'm not going to say it's worse; the fastest privately-owned A4 I know of is a DBW, but he has issues with it and switched to the older drive-by-cable system. Do some research before you buy an A4 and get stuck with annoying idiosyncracies of the model year you chose.
You might get the ATP Eliminator kit, which uses the stock manifold, and can use the stock downpipe and airbox I guess. Or you might want a new exhaust manifold. Not imperative. You'll also need injectors, exhaust, front-mount, clutch, some kind of intake contraption, and most importantly: Tuning. You will have a tough time finding tuning outside of Unitronics, which is promising to the nDBW (non-Drive By Wire) Audi community but not yet proven, or some other custom/dyno-standalone engine management tune.
Also, at that power level, rods are an issue on the 1.8T. That's all, though. Tranny is more beefy than anything any tuner has been able to throw at it yet, and the stock bottom end is stable at those power levels.
Check out audizine.com, ask the question at audigeeks.com, and browse http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release041205.htm
Talk to the Renn-Art rep who posts here.
And good luck. A big turbo four-cylinder AWD sedan is quite a bit different from a V8 rear-drive coupe.
EDIT: Went back and noticed you want to buy an '01. Well, 2000-and-up A4s are drive-by-wire, which presents different tuning obstacles for whomever you pay to make your car run right. I'm not going to say it's worse; the fastest privately-owned A4 I know of is a DBW, but he has issues with it and switched to the older drive-by-cable system. Do some research before you buy an A4 and get stuck with annoying idiosyncracies of the model year you chose.
www.goapr.com stage3+ for b5 ar 1.8t. will get you to 333 hp. Plus whatever hp you gain from supporting mods like exhaust, intercooler... etc
ORIGINAL: kink
www.goapr.com stage3+ for b5 ar 1.8t. will get you to 333 hp. Plus whatever hp you gain from supporting mods like exhaust, intercooler... etc
www.goapr.com stage3+ for b5 ar 1.8t. will get you to 333 hp. Plus whatever hp you gain from supporting mods like exhaust, intercooler... etc
t3/t4 60-1 @ 25 psi
equal length manifold
custom 3" d/p
630 cc injectors
034 standalone
pauter rods
weisco pistons
stage 3 clutch
standalone ignition
bov
fmic with at least 2.5' piping
2.75' exhaust from miltek
should be plenty and healthy
equal length manifold
custom 3" d/p
630 cc injectors
034 standalone
pauter rods
weisco pistons
stage 3 clutch
standalone ignition
bov
fmic with at least 2.5' piping
2.75' exhaust from miltek
should be plenty and healthy
gt35r is NOT overkill when your talking AWHP, maybe for engine hp. but still, you can expect 18 before 4300 on that turbo. 18psi would almost deffinately put you at 400awhp. and the title was 400hp PLUS. that's why I recommended the 35r. There are a few people runnin Revo on the other forums with the 35r having great success.
2871r = NOT EVEN CLOSE!!! It's what i'm running and i'm already tired of it.
30r = pushing that sucker pretty hard on race gas and 25 psi might get you to 360/370awhp
35r = 20+ psi on pump should have you seeing 400AWHP, but i think it has yet to be done
t3/t4 60-1 = big snail, not so quick of a spool or response. but should get you there
if you wanna spend $5k on your car with great reliability , just go with the APR stg3+. should get you close
2871r = NOT EVEN CLOSE!!! It's what i'm running and i'm already tired of it.
30r = pushing that sucker pretty hard on race gas and 25 psi might get you to 360/370awhp
35r = 20+ psi on pump should have you seeing 400AWHP, but i think it has yet to be done
t3/t4 60-1 = big snail, not so quick of a spool or response. but should get you there
if you wanna spend $5k on your car with great reliability , just go with the APR stg3+. should get you close
^^bingo, i'll be switching to the 35r, and i think there will be many many people switching to that turbo over the course of the year.
I see no point really to the 60-1 unless money is a big issue. Thats gonna take long time to spool, and there wont be that much of a usable powerband for a daily driver
I see no point really to the 60-1 unless money is a big issue. Thats gonna take long time to spool, and there wont be that much of a usable powerband for a daily driver



