Interested in 2001 A4 2.8 V6 - Suggestions?
My first post, so here goes.... I have a contact that is selling a 2001 A4 2.8 V6 with 60,000 miles. I wasn't looking at buying around now, but this seems to be an extremely good deal for the price he's asking (6,500 dollars). It has a clean history and has been maintained extremely well. At 52,000 miles, rear brakes and brake drums, timing belt, and water pump were replaced.
So I ask all of you fellow 2001 A4 owners, is it a good opportunity? Are there any Achilles heels of the car that I should know about? Is there anything specific I should ask the seller? It's not under any type of warranty, so any fixes will come out of pocket. Any help in my decision would be great! Thanks.
So I ask all of you fellow 2001 A4 owners, is it a good opportunity? Are there any Achilles heels of the car that I should know about? Is there anything specific I should ask the seller? It's not under any type of warranty, so any fixes will come out of pocket. Any help in my decision would be great! Thanks.
When i was first looking for an Audi, a guy on here sent me this. It may be helpful for you too.
You will need to do the following unless they can prove with receipts it's been done recently.
Timing belt and rollers/tensioner
Serpentine belt/rollers
Water pump
Vacuum lines
Completely change all of the fluids/filters
Valve cover gaskets/spark plugs
Check for;
It should start smooth a silk, Mine does, NO rumbles, no smoke. (be sure you start it cold,don't let them warm it up)
NO Oil Leaks
Coolant has to be pink or purple not green-walk if it's green.
Leaks coming from trany pan- I wouldn't buy it if there are any!
Make sure it shifts smoothly, Don't listen to them on that one. Use your own intuition. It's 5K to rebuild that sucker.
leaks coming from the CV joint boots.
Clicking when you nail it with the wheel cut both ways means you have a bad CV joint.
make sure all of the windows go up and down smoothly if not you may need to change a regulator.
Look behind the engine back by the firewall for oil/coolant leaks. Not to fun when they are back there.
Scan the ecm for fault codes. Very important. Run it a while turn it off and on a few times then scan it.
You will need to do the following unless they can prove with receipts it's been done recently.
Timing belt and rollers/tensioner
Serpentine belt/rollers
Water pump
Vacuum lines
Completely change all of the fluids/filters
Valve cover gaskets/spark plugs
Check for;
It should start smooth a silk, Mine does, NO rumbles, no smoke. (be sure you start it cold,don't let them warm it up)
NO Oil Leaks
Coolant has to be pink or purple not green-walk if it's green.
Leaks coming from trany pan- I wouldn't buy it if there are any!
Make sure it shifts smoothly, Don't listen to them on that one. Use your own intuition. It's 5K to rebuild that sucker.
leaks coming from the CV joint boots.
Clicking when you nail it with the wheel cut both ways means you have a bad CV joint.
make sure all of the windows go up and down smoothly if not you may need to change a regulator.
Look behind the engine back by the firewall for oil/coolant leaks. Not to fun when they are back there.
Scan the ecm for fault codes. Very important. Run it a while turn it off and on a few times then scan it.
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