I am going to install new CV axles this weekend (99.5 a4 quattro 1.8T manual) I have replaced CV axle before in a Chevy Tahoe 4x4, without a service manual, but never an Audi. I used SEARCH and had no luck with CV axle replacement tips on DIY

I am a newbie to this forum and the Audi auto world... but, I am no newbie to DIY and problem solving. At the moment I do not have a service manual for my a4. I am going to attempt this with my Chevy CV past experience. I do not expect it to be rocket science...but I am asking for anyone who has done this to just...share a little knowledge, that's all. Anything would help. I am a Physical Therapist and would be willing to trade some useful PT information for a little Audi CV axle information. Anyone...anyone...anyone...Bueller...Bueller...Bue ller....

 

lol well check www.audiworld.com under there tech section there is one or two write ups i think

 

i agree

 

I supervised the replacement of one, id say its not too tough to do. Just got to know what to take off

 

Pull the tie rod end loose and then pull the bold that holds the two upper control arms to the spindle. then just take the axle out. you should have all kinds of room then, got mine out in about 15 min, to find that the new one was the wrong size.

 

Will I need a front end allignment after?

 

I posed a DIY maybe a month ago...

It is a piece of cake...

Tools needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
Breaker bar (You may need a cheater bar as well)

Depending on what style collar bolt you have you will either need a 14mm allen socket, or a 27mm socket. -- Look to see first before you go and spend money on the wrong tool.

You can find the 14mm allen socket in a kit that comes with a 10,14, and 17mm at Advanced Auto Parts.

If you need the socket you can pick one up at sears (Kinda pricey, but worth it... $25)

You also need an 8mm 12pt star bit (Found at napa)



1. Remove the center cap from your wheel to expose the collar bolt. Inspect the ead of it to determine if you need the allen socket or a regular socket.

2. Hook up your socket and your breaker bar and break the collar bolt loose. I ended up standing on my breaker bar as the bolt was pretty much fused to the hub.

Once it is broken loose, the bolt will be finger tight (believe me, I dar near bit the dust when I broke it loose)

3. Jack up the car (Both sides) and secure it with the jack stands.

4. Pull off the tire and remove the collar bolt.

5. Remove the 6 12pt bolts from the inner CV joint using your 8mm 12pt star bit.

6. Once those are all loose you *should* be able to swing the axle up over the diff cap (up into the engine bay, towards the back of the car) and pull the axle out.

Depending on how the axle is assembled you may have to pull the wheel bearing housing loose to make enough room to do this, but with both of the axles I replaced (in the front end of the car) all I had to do was swing the axle up to the top back of the engine bay.

If it seems like your tolerances are really close, you might be able to make a little more room by turning the wheel all the way to the right or left, and try to "finess" it out of its home.

While you have the axle out, it may be a good time to change the wheel bearings (Provided you have a hub removal tool, and an on-the-car wheel bearing press).

7. Install in reverse order. I believe the collar bolt is supposed to be torqued to 95 ft-lbs and then turned another quarter turn (Some serious torque).

I've done two, can do the whole job in like a half an hour (if I don't change the wheel bearings). Pretty piece of cake. Don't forget to pack the grease in the inner CV joint... Oh, and don't get any of that grease in your hair *YUCK!*

COPIED WITH RESPECT FROM WHOLESEA ON AUDIZINE

 

Thank you

You also need an 8mm 12pt star bit (Found at napa)

Is this tool also called a "triple square driver"?

 

a square has 4 corners, triple square = 12 corners...

yes a 12bit star is a triple sqaure driver