I thought I would create a newbie's guide to AF to try and prevent stupid questions from being asked over and over again. I think it's worthy of being stickied at the top.

First off, when you have a question you should search. We have no problems answering all your questions, provided that you searched for them first. Some questions have been asked so many times its not even funny. It gets very annoying to the regular guys around here and thats why we flame them for it. If you have a question that hasn't been answered or you need further clarification on then absolutely post a new thread and we will help you out to the best of our knowledge. However you should not be starting new threads for questions already answered a million times. Why? Because its just plain annoying, and because it clutters up the forum and makes it harder for people to search when their search results contain hundreds of threads composed of just stupid questions and people flaming them for asking. Also to help ya'll newbie's out I made this list of commonly asked questions and such.


What mod should I do first?

Okay so you just got your A4 and you want to start modding it. But which mods should you buy first? The absolute first thing you should do is a chip. By far it offers the most bang for the buck. Expect to pay around $500 for a good one. With this $500 you will be getting roughly 40-50 hp and 60-80 ft/lbs of tq. When you get a chip you will also have to upgrade the DV (diverter valve). The stock ones in the car are plastic pieces of **** and will not be able to handle the added boost the chip provides. Next mods you should get are intake, test pipe, exhaust, and you should be set. You can do other mods that don’t add power like snub mount, shortshifter, and suspension. What you do after that is entirely up to how far you want to take the car and how deep your pockets are. If you want to know what brands you should choose for each keep reading.

What chip should I get?

This is probably one of the most asked and flamed questions on AF. To be completely honest GIAC, APR, and REVO are each going to give you very similar hp/tq gains, so to say one company is better than the other is pointless. Each company usually has dyno results posted on their website, but you have no way of knowing what conditions the dyno was taken under and each company usually overestimates its gains for marketing purposes. So what are the differences between them? The only difference between the companies is where that added power is applied in the RPM range. GIAC tends to give the power more in the low RPM’s whereas APR, and REVO tend to have more power in the higher RPM. As a general rule, if you have a B5 go with GIAC, if you have a B6 go with REVO, and if you have a B7 go with either APR or REVO. Why I say this is because this is the general consensus of the people on AF. People who have a B5 say that GIAC is the most fun to drive and it feels like the power is more available when you stomp down on the gas. People who have B6’s and B7’s usually say the same thing for REVO or APR. But power alone should not be the deciding factor in your decision. You also have to look at where each dealer is located and what their service is like. A good chip is useless without after sales support. You might want to upgrade the chip in the future to a more aggressive file so if a certain company offers discounts when upgrading you would want to pick that one.

There are other chips out there, but they usually are crap. Most people who buy Neuspeed chips say they are crap even though Neuspeed claims really high gains for cheap money. Here’s a link http://www.carbuffsweb.com/shop.asp?...temSubTypeID=1 but personally I wouldn’t get one. Your ECU is not where you want to be skimping money on. Also chips off of ebay are usually crap too.

What intake should I get?

The best intake you can probably get is Carbonio. However, this intake costs $400. That’s a crapload of money just for an intake. Personally, I would suggest an Evo intake over a Carbonio one. Costs quite a bit less but still does the job just as good. A lot of people suggest doing the airbox mod. It’s cheap and does everything a new intake does but there is a little risk involved. Water may get in and **** it up and cause problems depending on how you do it. Most of the guys who have done it have never had any problem with it and highly suggest it. More info on it can be found here: https://www.audiforums.com/m_260779/tm.htm Also an intake DOES NOT add 15-20 hp. If you think this you are a TOOL. You might get a couple extra hp from a carbonio or evo intake but don’t count on it. The only reason to get an intake is to make the turbo louder.

Which exhaust/test pipe should I get?

Which exhaust you should get depends on what kind of sound you want. Neuspeed is definitely the loudest but sounds the most “ricerish”. Milltek gives the “classiest” sounding exhaust, whatever that means. It is probably the most expensive exhaust but has a very nice deep tone to it. Borla is my personal choice. Its cheaper than Milltek but still provides that nice deep tone. 2”- 2 ½” exhaust is what you wana get. Unless you go BT, then you will want a 3” exhaust. Again exhaust will not add as much horsepower as you probably think. You’ll probly get 10hp from it if your lucky. If you want your car even louder and you want even more power you should also get a test pipe. The stock cat is one of the most restrictive parts on the car. This part WILL add a lot of power. At 2100 RPM it adds 20 hp and 50 ft/lbs of tq. Here’s a dyno chart for it: http://www.ecodetuning.com/gallery/i...s/b7a4testpipe
Not everyone can install a test pipe tho. It gets rid of the cat and therefore you will not be able to pass emissions with it. If you live in a state without emissions you are fine, but if you have emissions you can’t. Your best bet would be to then get a high flow cat or empty out all the honey comb crap from your stock one. If you have Quattro however you might be able to pass emissions. Emissions places aren’t able to test AWD cars under full load so you might be able to get away with it. This is not a guarantee tho. If you have FWD then you definitely won’t pass. As for which one to get, they are all pretty much the same but I would suggest an ecode testpipe. They’re the ones who gave those dyno results and I have one in my car and it sounds great with the Borla exhaust. Another option is custom exhaust. Getting a custom exhaust is usually the best way to go with 2.8/3.0's because of the limited aftermarket. It’ll probly run you cheaper than buying an exhaust from a company and still works great. Here’s some sound clips of different exhaust’s on A4’s:

Magnaflow

If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...d/driving2.swf In Car Sound

If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ing_test3a.swf Car Launch

If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ing_test2a.swf Drive By Sound

If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...dia4_incar.mp3 In Car Sound

If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ia4_launch.mp3 Car Launch

If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...a4_driveby.mp3 Drive By Sound

If you have a B6 A4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRHjy...elated&search=

Sound Clip for Milltek Exhaust (inside cabin)
http://www.stratmosphere.com/a4tqm_g...g_56_24000.wav

Sound Clip for Borla Exhaust, standstill rev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mxbcpl5j-MQ

Sound Clip for Borla Exhaust., standstill revs 2
http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/multimedia/revs2.mov

Sound clip for Borla Exhaust, driving away
http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/mult.../driveaway.mov

Sound clip for Borla Exhaust, for a B6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF0XSV93jTU

Sound clip for Neuspeed Exhaust + ecode test pipe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8RbNRUTrB8

Sound Clip for AWE exhaust vs. stock exhaust for a B7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwvFIDm4GOU

Sound clip for AWE exhaust
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2JgT...elated&search=

Sound Clip for APR exhaust vs. stock exhaust for a B7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=io53j...elated&search=

What kind of BOV should I get?

If you ask this question in the forum you will definitely get flamed and Arif will most likely shoot himself in the head. I don’t think he has too many lives left so please don’t ask this question. Audi’s can NOT use Blow-Off Valves. The Audi turbo system is a closed loop system by which all unused boost that is spooled during off throttle and gear shifts must be re-routed within the system; it cannot be vented to the atmosphere due to the dependence on the MAF and ECU to properly read and interpret air flow dynamics within the intake tract. Therefore BOV's (Blow-Off Valves) are not used because they create a rich air/fuel condition (i.e. less air to fuel ratio) which will damage the catalytic converter, create soot on the exhaust pipes, and cause occasional misfiring (due to the purged air) which will result in ECU miscalculated timing adjustments and other errors.
For Audi closed loop turbo systems, a BPV (By-Pass Valve) or DV (Diverter Valve) is needed to recirculate the purged air and keep it within the intake tract.
(credit ImolaS4)

What DV should I get?

Now this is right question you should asking instead of which BOV to get. As for which one you should get is entirely up to you. First option is the 710N. This DV comes stock on Audi TT to compensate for the added boost from the k04. It is the cheapest one you can buy and will work fine if all you plan to do to the car is chip and few other mods. The next option is Forge 007. This DV is fully serviceable and adjustable. If you are upping the boost all you need to do is switch out the spring. This is probably the most recommended DV to get and is ideal if your going to be upgrading the turbo. There are other DV’s out there like Bailey’s, EVOMS, Hyperboost, etc. They each work just as good as the Forge 007, so whichever you can get for cheapest is the one you should get. A new DV will not add any power but it will make the “psshh” sound more audible.

Which Turbo should I get?

This all depends on how much power you want vs. reliability, and how deep your pockets are. The most reliable and easiest one to swap to is a k04. You don’t have to swap anything else out. It’s a direct "bolt on" replacement. But your prolly going to max out a little under 300hp. The other popular choices are GT28RS, GT2871r, and GT3071r. With a gt28rs you will get more power but you will have to swap a bunch of stuff out as well. It maxes out around 350-375 hp I believe. A gt2871r is going to provide similar results to the gt28rs. The only difference is the gt28rs will spool faster. If you want even more power go with a GT3071R. It maxes out at about mid 400 hp range I believe. Again you will have to change other stuff as well. If you want detailed info on these three turbos then check out this link: http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release050304.htm

There are others as well, but these are the popular choices.

How reliable are Audi’s?

Audi’s, contrary to popular belief, are reliable cars. They just need a little more attention than other cars do. A car is only going to be as reliable as you are. If you change the oil every 5k miles with synthetic oil, put in 91 or higher octane gas, and do all the other required maintenance at its recommended intervals than the car will be very reliable. The engine’s are a marvel of german technology and are capable of exceeding 200k+ miles on them no problem. The 2.8 tends to be more reliable than the 1.8T because its not forced induction.

Should I get an Audi?

It depends on your financial situation. If you are a poor teenager than this most likely isn’t the car for you. You should have at least an extra grand after purchasing the car for repairs/maintenance. Audi’s are not cheap cars to own and maintain. The parts for the car really aren’t that expensive, although there are some exceptions. The real killer is the labor. The car can not be serviced/repaired everywhere and the places that can do it charge you up the wazoo for labor. Working on an Audi really isn’t that much different from working on other cars tho. So if you are mechanically inclined and can DIY for most things than that will cut down on the cost of owning one significantly.
Which A4 should I get?

There are pretty much 2 choices you have when it comes to deciding on which A4 to get. The 1.8T or the 2.8. Regardless of which engine you get you should DEFINITELY get Quattro. Try driving a FWD compared to a Quattro and you will know what I mean. They are completely different cars. It doesn’t matter if you live in a place where it doesn’t snow or other stuff like that. Quattro in my mind is a must when getting an Audi. Now which engine should you get? It depends on if your looking to mod the car, or if you want more reliability. The 1.8T has loads of mods and the more fun to drive in my opinion. The 2.8 is more reliable than the 1.8T but has practically no mods. It starts with 40 more hp than the 1.8T but is also slightly heavier. The only way to get serious power out of the 2.8 is with a supercharger. But they cost like 5 grand. Lots of info can be found out about supercharging the 2.8 at www.scaudi.com Also more info can be found about this subject here: https://www.audiforums.com/m_355352/tm.htm

Auto vs. Manual

In a race a manual will beat an auto any day of the week. It can launch properly and shift faster (most of the time). The manual transmission will be able to handle any amount of power you’re going to be putting into the car. The tiptronic tranny will not be able to support anything above about 300 ft. lbs of torque. If your dead set on more power than that with an auto tranny than you can get a level 10 upgrade. http://www.levelten.com/ is where you can find info about that. You can cut down on the shift time of the tiptronic with a tip chip. GIAC is the most popular choice for this. Also the an automatic tranny will lose some power through the torque converter. An auto tranny can however shift a lot better than a human can in most cases, especially when you add a tip chip.
(credit TheJazz7)

The A4 2.8/3.0
So you got an A4 without doing much research first and picked a 2.8/3.0 without knowing it had practically no mods for it, or maybe you just wanted the extra reliability but still want to mod it. So what parts are there for it? As for exhaust there is Neuspeed, Decorsa, Thermal, Milltek, and Supersprint. For the 2.8 only Milltek offers a full cat-back exhaust. The rest of those are for the 3.0. For chips there is Neuspeed, GIAC, and Wetterauer. For intake there is Stratmosphere. For underdrive pulley you have Unorthodox Racing. The last mod you can do to it is a supercharger. Pretty much the only major mod for the 2.8. It’ll cost you around 5 grand and you will be getting around 300 hp. www.scaudi.com has lots of info on superchargers and has group buys so you can get one for cheaper. No company makes a turbocharger for the 2.8 but some guys have made one-off setups so its possible. Exhaust, intake, and a chip will get you about 12-18 hp. For a lot more detailed info on the 2.8 check out this link: https://www.audiforums.com/m_177186/tm.htm
(credit Grouse)

eGay

Also known as eBay, this wonderful online auction where you can normally get stuff for dirt cheap, is NOT the place you want to be buying stuff for your Audi. There are some exceptions tho. The eBay short shifter is one of these. They are a lot cheaper than the ones you find from tuning companies and yet still work just as good. The eBay intercooler. Most people used to think they were all crap and did no good whatsoever. This however is not true. Most of the ones found on eBay now are actually pretty good. The only problem is they are larger than say a greddy, APR, or DUH intercooler. And there is not much space to stick an intercooler behind the A4’s front bumper, so more cutting may be required. The appeal to this intercooler is that it is substantially cheaper than a greddy, APR, etc. would run you. One from eBay would run you about $100 for the core and then you can get piping custom made for it at a local shop. It will end up running you roughly $100-$200 if you can install it yourself, whereas the Greddy one will run you about $1000. Just make sure the intercooler is a bar and plate design. Definitely stay away from all headlights, chips, and stuff that looks cheaply made. The headlights are poorly made, fog up all the time, and quite often have leaks that allow water to get inside the housing.

What year is my car/What are the differences between the years?

If you want to know whether you have a 98 or a 98.5 or if you just want to know the differences in the exterior of the A4 over the years than you should check out this link http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/a4/diff/ Engine wise the 97-99.5 are nDBW and 2000-2001.5 DBW. If your planning on extensively modding your car nDBW is the way to go. If your just getting a chip and a few other mods than it doesn't really matter. 99.5 is considered to be the best year because it is still nDBW but it has all the upgrades the 2000+ had, like one-piece headlights, improved timing belt tensioner, and other stuff. In 2001 the stock hp rose from 150 hp to 170 hp. This was done through variable valve timing, different compression (from 9.5:1 to 9.3:1) and different programming along with a k03 sport that increased the boost by .3 bar (from .5 to .8). Also throughout the years the 1.8T engines have had different codes. 97-99.5 are AEB, 2000 are ATW, and 2001 are AWN. AEB engines are the best to work on and mod and have more aftermarket.

Recommended Service Intervals
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/audi/
Last time i checked it had everything you needed for 97-04. Very detailed. Only thing is you gota have a pdf reader to see them. If you don't have adobe than download Foxit Reader, its free, small in size, and better than adobe IMO.

Stereo Info
All of this info is for the Bose system. I can't say for certain it is the same for the non Bose system but i think the speaker sizes are the same. The front doors and rear dears both have 5 1/4" speakers, and the rear deck has 6 1/2" speakers. A lot of people don't believe these are the speaker sizes because they can't get the same size speakers to fit. This is because the Bose speakers have custom mounts so if you are going to be installing aftermarket speaker you will have to get an adapter. The factory bose amp is on the driver's side trunk under the parcel shelf.

Common Problems
Common problems on A4's are timing belt, control arms, tie rod ends, oil sludge, and sunroof. The timing belt tenioners in the car suck and the timing belt will have to be changed every 80-90k miles. Some people are paranoid and do it every 60-70k. If your pre-2000 than its better to do it sooner if it's never been done because of the crappy tensioner. Post-2000 you can supposedly go 111,846 miles (no i didn't make that number up) but its always better to do it sooner than later. If the timing belt snaps you are pretty much f*cked. It will most likely push the pistons up and bend the valves and other nasty stuff, unless you got some damn good karma and get no internal damage. The former will require an engine rebuild. You might as well buy a whole new A4. While your changing the timing belt you also might as well change the water pump and a few other things. Best way is to buy a kit from renn-art or one of the sponsors. If you do it yourself it will run you roughly $300, of you get a local tuner to do it, a good price is around $700, and if you take it to the stealership they will rape you,repeatedly, until they've gotten over $1000 out of your newly ripped hole. Oil sludge is more of a problem for the 1.8T than the 2.8. Just make sure to use synthetic oil and change it every 5k and you won't ever have to worry about this. The sunroof is retarded in most A4's. It is usually one of two things. You either need to clean the contacts (DIY-http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html) or you need a new relay switch.


This list is in no way complete and I'm not perfect so it might have some mistakes in it. if you would like to add on to it or edit it in any way just let me know and I will edit it and give you full credit for any contributions.

(Credit to onepoint8tee for help with editing/contributions and getting this stickied. thanx again man)

 

they wont read this, but great job... should you be studying ?

 

Good post, i had just one question though, so in terms of BOV which did you recommend?=) I'm sure even with this extensive effort of yours, the BOV questions will never stop. but props on a good write up!

 

ya i spent all day studying and took the test earlier today. i did this last night cuz i couldn't sleep so i thought i would post it up. now i gota go work on a paper[&o]

o and GTOrleans, i would suggest finding the largest one out there so that way i can go over their house before they install it and shove it up their ***[:-]

 

As soon as i saw this i wanted to sticky it... But there are a couple things that need added, and edited. I want you to get full credit so ill pm you some stuff later that i think would help and then you can edit it and we'll sticky it. This place really needs more material for the noobs to refer to other than the search. Of course not all noobs will bother to read this, but even if some do, i think it will make a big difference. Way to take the initiative on making audiforums a better place!

You really need to add some good info for the 2.8 and 3.0-ers out there too because we all know how they sometimes feel left out or at a loss for info related to their engines (not that there is much to do with them) But I'll PM you later on after i eat with some ideas... Again, looks like a great start to something really useful.

Here's your reward:

 

sweet i got a cookie

ya i got a paper to finish and then im going to a meet at 9. so after im finished with that i'll be back and i'll edit and add to it with your suggestions onepoint8tee and thanx for the help. also if anyone else would like to pm me with suggestions/stuff to add feel free. i'll give everyone credit for stuff i add to it.

 

put a diagram in it to show them how to use the damn search feature !

 

edited a few things

 

Good God, man......

A little quick math tells me that you post more than 25 times per day on average.

Put the can DOWN and SLOWLY step away from the Red Bull, Sir - don't make me tazer you. [sm=insomnia.gif]

 

damn man insomnia has finaly created some good, lol this is great and i really hope people actually read it before asking stupid ****