All right,

I have searched up and down the internet, all the Audi Forums, and haven't found someone with a similar problem as I have developed. Knowing this is where most of the Audiphiles come to play, I thought someone might be able to help.

To start with, I have a 98.5 A4, 2.8L 30v, QM.

From what I had read, and knowing that I was over 72K miles, I decided to be a real DIYer and tackle the timing belt/water pump/cam and crank seals. Ordered the kit from blauparts, as well as the accompanying tool kit, since I didn't want to screw anything up.

Got all the bodywork off without much issue, and everything was going relatively well. Fast forward to a week later (work, and all), and I had finally popped the sprockets from the cams, changed the seals, locked the crank at TDC (or so I think), and changed that seal as well. The timing mark was straight at 12 oclock, and that was the only position I could get the crank lock threaded in correctly at (which is why I assume it was TDC, as well as having the mark line up on the crank pulley).

When popping the cam sprockets, the cams moved a bit, but I pulled them back into line, and eventually got them locked down with the cam lock bar (which I assume puts them where they need to be by default).

AND SO, with the crank at TDC, the cams lined up and locked, I fitted the new belt, allowed the sprockets to distribute the tension, and torqued everything down.

Here's the only thing that could have been a problem...apparently my torque wrench can't LOOSEN to a certain torque, so I sort of guessed when I pulled the tensoiner roller under pressure on the belt, so it might not have been right at 11 lb-ft of torque. I made it so you could twist the TB about 90 degrees by hand...well maybe a little harder than that...but it looked good. I cranked the crankshaft around a few times, whenever the timing mark on the crank was at the top, the cam brackets were horizontal. I thought I was in business.

So I put it all back together, load it up with G12, and very cautiously start 'er up. No big problems at first (and still no BIG ones), but I know there is a clicking there that wasn't there before, not loud, but noticeable to me. It raises with engine revs, but most noticeable at idle.

Also, if you poke the gas, the revs will fall back down almost to a stall, then rebound back up to a normal idle point.

I really just want this project to be wrapped up, if anyone has any insight on this, then please hook me up - I can't wait for my mechanic neighbor to get back from wherever he is....and I'm sick of driving my roommate's volvo (it's swedish for goodness sakes).

if you over tension the belt it will cause noise, it shoud be relative EASY to twist the belt 90 degrees, further more im not 100% positive you have your timing correct, you should turn the crank over with the pulley on it until it lines up with the timing mark on the lower cover then install the tool, dont just install the tool and turn the crank until it locks u need to make sure those TDC marks are lined up. other than that you did everything correct with aligning the cams and all that

Update: All right, I tore it all down, double checked the timing marks, triple checked everything, and we're looking good as far as clicking goes. I think I may just be straining so hard to hear something "off" that I forgot that an actual engine makes normal noises sometimes.

Still having problems with the idle dropping, though...I took it around the block, and it would stall every time I came to a stop with the clutch in. I tried the trick where you disconnect the battery and then start it up again for it to "learn" the new setup, but it didn't do anything.

Anyone ever encounter this?

One thing to possibly consider is the newness of the belt. At least with the 1.8turbo, apparently the position of the camshaft with the new belt will be somewhat ahead of its normal position by about a half a tooth. This accounts for belt stretch over time, and so the timing get "better" over time as the belt stretches. Since you said your marks are ok, then i'm sure they are, but i thought I'd throw that out there. My 1.8t also goes below its normal idle point when decelerating, and then comes back up. I wonder if this is to lengthen the life of the timing belt by limiting acceleration of the t-belt. I haven't a clue...

check to make sure you didnt mess up any vacumn lines. loss of vacumn may cause what u are experincing wilken, maybe even hook up a vacumn gauge to check it out.

man your scaring me. i am doing mine next saturday... is the cam timing tool necessary is that just to make sure the sprokets dont turn, cant i just mark them and make sure there lined up after i put the belt on?

mjvss if you have a 2.8 motor you need to have the cam holding tool to achieve proper belt tension,the cam gear needs to freewheel on the cam while setting tension, so the tool holds the cams in position while it does that, the cam gears are not keyed in any way they can be installed on the cams anyway you please there is what i call for lack of a better term ears sticking off each cam that have guide holes in em that the tool holds onto to keep the cams aligned, so ya you need the tool, you can get away with not having the crank holding tool however but i wouldnt reccomend that either, go to blauparts.com and order the belt kit and the tool rental, its well worth it trust me.