2.8qm12v
my left rear caliper seems to be stuck...
got off the highway one night, parked the car, and got out to see the rotor glowing red....
2 methods i'm familiar with to fix it is to 1. unseize it - take off calliper, make it snap free, put it back on...
or 2. replace it... ... any other possibly easier methods?
also, this can't be good for my rotor.. . my pads are probably wearing at the rotors, no?
or both are wearing very quickly? any help would be greatly appreciated!
ALSO
I've posted this before but didn't get much response
my RPM drops very slow.... i have to wait to engage in the next gear til the rpm drops sufficiently...
but when i turn my a/c on, it acts pretty much normal... IACvalve maybe?? anyone else experiencing anything like this??

 

REPLACE your caliper, it's bad. My rear right went out. I got home one day and it was smoking. You'll need new pads too but your rotor should be okay (depending on how long it's been stuck). You should replace both sets of rear pads at the same time though. I bought my caliper at Autozone. It was factory refurbished (same warranty as a new one) for $60 with the core (the new one was like $105). You'll also have to bleed the brake system at that caliper after you replace it. It's not a bad job at all. If you don't already have one I recommend getting a Haynes manual for your car. You can also get this at Autozone and it'll tell you step by step what to do.

You shouldn't drive it like it is though because that heat is bad. It could mess up your wheel bearing and rotor and then your getting into some serious $. Good luck on the fix!

 

Hmm, yeah, if the car isnt shaking violently, your rotor might be ok... but if its glowing red.. it may have warped. Your pads will likely be glazed to hell too, who knows though. I've never replaced a siezed caliper... always just taken them apart, and fixed them.

your slow dropping RPM's... I dunno. Is the clutch definately releasing completely? Anything wierd happening when you come to a stop, like low idle, wanting to stall? -- I'm totally stabbing in the dark here.

 

be smart and be safe about it.. replace all the brakes.. safety isnt anything you should gamble with

 

Neither is money! lol, rebuilding a seized caliper, IMO isn't an unsafe practice... worst case scenario? It seizes up again... THEN you replace the caliper. I've never had one seize up again, in the time I owned the car afterwards. Just take the caliper off, have a look at it... you will see what is siezed, and look for WHY it seized... if you're confident in repairing it, do it up. If you're not, then you're already 1/2 way through the job, go buy a new caliper, and you've already got your core in hand.

 

Im just saying dont do one brake or just the rears.. do all of them..

 

Thanks all for the input. I actually do have the hayne's manual, and it's AWESOME ^^;;
I must've saved at least $1000 in labor already thanks to it.
I will definitely take your advices: first unseize, if it seizes again, replace.
oh, update on the condition of my rotors/pads...
pads have worn down ... it's at half the thickness of the other side.
doesn't get hot back there anymore, so I'm guessing pads have worn thinner than the seized point.
My rotors haven't warped (silk smooth stopping as before), but need changing in the near future anyways.
SO, going to wear out these pads, unseize the calliper when i replace the rear pads again, and go from there
thank again for your time and concern.

 

that sounds like an e brake prob to me. just cus I've seen the screw type e-brake seize befor.