some pics of my shortblock
i have heard from a buddy of mine at work that builds hot rods that it is good to drive it nice for about 500 miles and use non deterant sae 30 for those first 500 miles then change and use your usual oil and use a oil plug with a magnet on it to get any metal peices that might of made it in the motor,but it could be very different going from a 350 with a blower to a 1.8 with a turbo but it wouldn't hurt to research it before you do something wrong and mess up the motor forever just my 2 cents
I pulled this off of here:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The break-in process is a write-up for sport bikes but has been done in cars as well and has proven to be the best break-in method. There is also a thread on AZ about it here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ngine+break-in
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another vehicle when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't wantanyone to get hit from behind!!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you drive on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get outinto the country where you can vary the speed moreand run it through the gears! Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The break-in process is a write-up for sport bikes but has been done in cars as well and has proven to be the best break-in method. There is also a thread on AZ about it here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ngine+break-in
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another vehicle when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't wantanyone to get hit from behind!!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you drive on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get outinto the country where you can vary the speed moreand run it through the gears! Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
ORIGINAL: ironman
Its gonna be sick, i wonder why you didnt go toteh 2 liter or the 2.2??
Its gonna be sick, i wonder why you didnt go toteh 2 liter or the 2.2??
EDIT: Dave, YGPM
ORIGINAL: badassb5
I pulled this off of here:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The break-in process is a write-up for sport bikes but has been done in cars as well and has proven to be the best break-in method. There is also a thread on AZ about it here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ngine+break-in
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another vehicle when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't wantanyone to get hit from behind!!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you drive on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get outinto the country where you can vary the speed moreand run it through the gears! Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
I pulled this off of here:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The break-in process is a write-up for sport bikes but has been done in cars as well and has proven to be the best break-in method. There is also a thread on AZ about it here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ngine+break-in
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another vehicle when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't wantanyone to get hit from behind!!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you drive on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get outinto the country where you can vary the speed moreand run it through the gears! Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
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