My neighbor owns a stereo shop, he said flat out, that you can't tell the difference between W3's and W6's. He said the only reason he has W6's in his car, is because he likes that people will pay more for them, and he wants to represent. Another employee had already done his car with W7's, which are twice the sub of W3's or W6's... so my neighbor used the "next best thing"

But yeah, he said it, he's the guy selling JL... so buy W3's, and save your $.

Your music style should be the deciding factor when you build your bass... if your a rock/alternative guy, a single 10" with a 250/1 will be great... if you get into stuff that is a little bassier, maybe 2 10's. I only recommend 12's for people who listen to hip hop and rap. 12's aren't quick enough to make rock sound good, IMO.

 

the one 10" i have is great all the way across the board.. on Hip-Hop it really hits hard... then on alternative. or even heavy metal it sounds great... i love it

 

I dunno, I guess it depends on how loud you go... my single 10W7 is usually mistaken for two 12's. I often ask people what they THINK I have, then pop the trunk, and they are like "what!?!? this... cant... be..."

But even the 10" W7 can exhaust itself when playing really bass heavy music, really loud -- well, almost exhaust itself IT OWNS.

 

I agree.. nobody believes me when i tell them its one 10" till i show them... at first it was ok.. then it broke in.. and the level of quality soared through the roof

 

I have another vehicle that I compete in Sound Quality with (no not a Audi), but I have a 12" and a 8", the 12 is in the back and the 8" in in the glovebox upfront, I can turn off the 12" and ride around with the 8 and it sounds like there's a pr of 10s in the car.. plus it's crystal clear.. Only draw back, it doesn't play low enough without being able to be localized..

I would do this in my A4, But I really need to try to keep the car intact..
And no offense to all you JL Audio fans, but spending a few hundred dollars on a sub, just because someone says it is, is just you guys throwing away money.. Do some research there's a few brands and different model # that are cheaper when placed in teh right box, play as good as the more expensive one...

 

The W7 is an amazing sub, regardless of what you say... what other brands are you speaking of? The only sub in the same price range as the W7 that competes with it, is some MB quartz one, I cant remember the model #.

 

hmm i would like to believe that the w3 hits just as hard as the w6 but from comaring them it sounds like the w6 hits much harder. Also i think i might go for one 10" w6 now, get the speakers, then come back and throw another 10" in there. Amps are what will do me in for $$ but i think for my birthdat in 2 days ill go to the store if i get the license, have them fix the radio and put a w6 in the back.

Could someone help me with the difference in larger speakers? and some of the other specs i should look at when buying new speakers.

 

Yes I'll give it props to the W7, but their are other subs that perform as well, JL Audio W6, Image Dynamics IDMax, the JBL GTi series, Adire Brahma, Beyma Xmax and a few others. but of course I'm all over when it comes to price range..

 

That is exactly what I was saying before, the W6 isnt worth the money, and the W3 is 99% as good as the W6.

If you're claiming the W6 hit way harder, I'm willing to be you heard 2 different systems, and they were being powered by different amps, or one car was tuned, the other was not.
Honestly, my neighbor OWNS the store, and HE the JL dealer told me that W3's are as good as W6's, or rediculously close to it. In his eyes, it is a choice between W3's or W7's.... W7 if you have the $.

 

My problem withthe W6 goes way back, they were very inefficient subs, hence the reason for the large amp required to push a trio of 8s or 10s.. But Being that I'm going to go somewhat conservative in my A4 (600w) vs my accord (1200w), I'm going to try to maximize as much as possible, especially trunk space...