I am replacing the outer Tie Rod and cant seem to get the damn thing off. The lock nut is loose, and end of the tie rod is off of the control arm. When I got to unscrew the outer tie rod the whole thing rotates. Ive tryed holding the inner tie rod with a box wrench and turning the outer part with no success, PB blasted and everything. Any suggestions?

 

lots of releasing oil and hold the inner with a pipe wrench and if you have 2 then use the other to undo it

[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/1FCB5942A2E848C7A8BA6A4033A0DCD2.gif[/IMG]

 

Exact thing happend to me. Its seized where the tie rod end screws into the inner TR. Propane didnt even work for me (and propane heat should be more effective than any penetrating oil like PB blaster)-but i used that too. I ended up taking it to Monroe where they used their own heat (forget what its called, but it gets WAY hotter than propane). They had to replace the steering rack boots though because they melted due to the heat. I paid $130 for the tie rods to be put on, new rack boots, and 4 wheel alignment. He did it "off the books." I suggest you find a shop and ask them if they do any "off the books" work. If they are cool enough to do it like that, youll save a lot. You and I are statistics though, most people dont have problems getting the tie rod ends off, but they do sometimes seize like that.
Does this pic explain your situation?


[IMG]local://upfiles/10408/08345235E6AB4C15A71E4F42E2B15B28.jpg[/IMG]

 

OK, try this for a little more leverage......

Use a pipe wrench as mentioned, position it so when the inner with the wrench on it rotates, the wrench bumps into something (frame, control arm, whatever) solid, that wont let it go any further.
That way you can get two hands on the other wrench and give it all you got.
If that still doesnt work, get a propane torch and heat the **** out of it, for like 5 minutes, to try and break it loose.
The PB should help, but may not get in there far enough to where it is corroded, hence the heat might git-er-done for ya.

 

Also, the longer the handle you can get for better leverage will aid.
If you have too, try puting a piece of pipe over the wrench to make it longer and give you more leverage. Or use a small wrench on the inner, bumped up against something, and a long handled pipe wrench on the other, so you can really get some leverage on it.

Let us know how it comes out.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I went out and covered that f-er with pb blaster and kept working at it. Eventually got the damn thing off. I think part of the struggle was beacuse the TRE was actaully bent. New one is on along with new brake lines, pads and rotors. Thanks for the help, got a CV boot and some wheel bearing housings to take out tomorrow, so you know I'll be back if more trouble arises....