Audi A6 The mid-sized Audi A6 model offers more room to the driver and passengers over the A4 line.

00 a6 2.8 Torque Converter

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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #1  
ceroberts75's Avatar
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Default 00 a6 2.8 Torque Converter

I had my car in the shop today and was told that the torque converter was going bad, along with bank 1 O2 sensor and the engine heat sensor.

i had no lights on my dash.

the car "shutters" when just keeping it at any speed. so if i am going 30mph, and just tap the throttle to keep it at that speed, it will constantly "shutter" and randomly jump 150-200 rpm. this happens on residential speeds and on the highway below 65mph.

i did leave it in neutral and just hold the rpm at various speeds, but it does not shutter, only when i am in gear and moving.

it is about $2800 to get the torque converter replaced, $525 for the O2 sensor, $300 for the Engine sensor. (not sure that it is all worth it)

would anyone have any ideas of if it may be more of a solinoid (sp) issue rather than the converter? i have not heard of a converter going bad, and if the O2 sensor was about going out, i would have had a bell go off on my dash.

any "master's knowledge" would be appreciated!

thank you.
 
Old Apr 19, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ceroberts75
I had my car in the shop today and was told that the torque converter was going bad, along with bank 1 O2 sensor and the engine heat sensor.

i had no lights on my dash.

the car "shutters" when just keeping it at any speed. so if i am going 30mph, and just tap the throttle to keep it at that speed, it will constantly "shutter" and randomly jump 150-200 rpm. this happens on residential speeds and on the highway below 65mph.

i did leave it in neutral and just hold the rpm at various speeds, but it does not shutter, only when i am in gear and moving.

it is about $2800 to get the torque converter replaced, $525 for the O2 sensor, $300 for the Engine sensor. (not sure that it is all worth it)

would anyone have any ideas of if it may be more of a solinoid (sp) issue rather than the converter? i have not heard of a converter going bad, and if the O2 sensor was about going out, i would have had a bell go off on my dash.

any "master's knowledge" would be appreciated!

thank you.
Sounds like a faulty torque converter to me. Only thing is a faulty torque converter and the 02 sensor would throw a check engine light

The torque converter is a common issue on the automatic tranny. It is mostly pronounced in the 2.7 but it can be possible in all engines that use the zf-5hp-19 tranny

How many miles are on the car? When did you change the tranny fluid?
 
Old Apr 19, 2012 | 08:22 PM
  #3  
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torque converters r an issue on these!! maybe cheaper to find a used trans from a wreck yard!!
 
Old Apr 19, 2012 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by saharanate
torque converters r an issue on these!! maybe cheaper to find a used trans from a wreck yard!!
ZF the tranny maker had several years from 98-05 to correct this issue and they tried several times and failed everytime. The inside seal of the converter deteriorates which causes the torque converter to not be able to lock properly which causes higher Rpms and or unstable Rpms as the OP described. This causes the engine to work harder which causes worse fuel economy than our cars already get. Lol.

OP if you have never once changed the tranny fluid ASAP. Low or old fluid can also cause the "torque converter" code.
 
Old Apr 20, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by budhani786
Sounds like a faulty torque converter to me. Only thing is a faulty torque converter and the 02 sensor would throw a check engine light

The torque converter is a common issue on the automatic tranny. It is mostly pronounced in the 2.7 but it can be possible in all engines that use the zf-5hp-19 tranny

How many miles are on the car? When did you change the tranny fluid?
180K, just went in for the 180k service. going to pick it up this morning.

they called me yesterday to say that the stuttering is the torque converter, and that the bank 1 O2 and the engine sensor were going to.

though i had no lights on the dash. :/


just the torque is $2800. i think my car is only worth about $4k-ish, though other than the miles, is immaculant.
 
Old Apr 20, 2012 | 02:40 PM
  #6  
budhani786's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ceroberts75
180K, just went in for the 180k service. going to pick it up this morning.

they called me yesterday to say that the stuttering is the torque converter, and that the bank 1 O2 and the engine sensor were going to.

though i had no lights on the dash. :/


just the torque is $2800. i think my car is only worth about $4k-ish, though other than the miles, is immaculant.
If I were you and have no check engine lights on the car if just go and change the tranny oil. I hope that in your 180k service that was included.

The converter can be rebuilt for around 500 and have a mechanic out it in for about 1200
 
Old Apr 20, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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ok, after getting the car back and doing some testing, this is what i have found:

i tried to go from gear to gear (1-5)

1st does not get the shutters at any rpm being held (it is stable)

2nd does not get the shutters at any rpm being held (it is stable)

3rd starts getting shutters when trying to hold on to speeds between 2100rpm-3500rpm

4th same as 3rd

5th same as 3rd & 4th




it has tiptronic shifting, so i was able to test each gear seperately on a flat smooth road.


also noticed that if it is in automatic (non-tiptronic) and getting off the freeway or just slowing down in general, that is shutters until it seems to get to 2nd gear in the downshifting (which is more like either taping the throttle to speed back up when at a low speed or coming to a stop). if i do not come to a stop and try to accelerate after taking my speed back down to about 20-25mph, it shutters, just like if you are in a manual drive stick-shift and have it in 4th and you should be in 2nd and try to give it gas...no power, though in this case it starts to shutter but has power.


the 180k service done did not have a transmission service as part of it.


question: does anyone know exaclty what it is that "breaks" when the torque converter is supposed to be bad? is it really the torque coverter really bad, or could it be more of a solenoid or gasket/connector, etc. if someone knows from experience what part is really "broken" that would be awesome to share.



thanks again for all your help.
 
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