Having problems starting up.
First noticed this same problem a couple years ago in very cold weather (15-25 F for a week) and I hadn't driven the car either during that week. Once I could get out of the driveway, I tried to turn it over and heard the electronics just clicking, then all died and nothing. I had to jump the car to get it started, and it ran fine if it was started and driven at least once a day.
Last year we replaced the battery since it happened again after just one day without being driven.
This weekend, it's happening again... click click click sounds but won't turn over. can even lock or unlock the doors... had to get jumped again and car runs fine. Stop, and will start again fine if within a few minutes of turning off engine. Any longer than that without a start, and I need a jump again to turn over.

I'm NOT an auto-mechanic, so I will have to take it in, but wonder what thought are about what the problem could be? alternator? starter? anything I could check myself?

Thank you for your time!

 

That sounds like a bad starter.

That sounds like you may have a bad battery, even if is only one year old. But that also may point to a faulty alternator as well...

One last thing you can try is to turn the key on and look at your battery voltage indicator. Is it over 12.5 V? If yes, then you can eliminate the voltage regulator as the culprit.
Also, after you start the car, does the battery voltage indicator jumps toward 13,5 -14 V? If yes, that eliminates the alternator.

Good luck

 

Is the starting problem with the advanced key system or the traditional key?

 

Sounds like a bad battery but start with cleaning your battery terminals. Once they get corroded, they can't pass any juice, but you usually get all or nothing, not a click, click, click. It could also be that you have something electrical stuck on, like a light, or a short to ground. This would be draining your battery as it sits. You will need an ammeter to check for that which your mechanic can do.

Good luck,

Bob

 

Thank you all for your suggestions, I'm just beginning to learn more about what makes my A6 tick, and I appreciate your time for reading and replying!

We took the battery back to Les Schwab and it tested fine, once it was placed back into the car, I've been able to turn her over without needing a jump.

Even took her in to the Dealer Mechanic (still have warranty, with a $60 deductible, so figured why not?) and told them Schawb said the battery was fine. After diagnostics at the Dealer, they said the battery was bad, that we needed to get a new battery from the Dealer because of "programming the computer" ??? and the total price tag we were quoted was over $400...

Needless to say, we were/are a little We turned down the offer, and here I am...

Thoughts? I still think I may have a "parasite" in my car somewhere... but it may be I need a new battery...

Another note: after sitting with engine off all day at work (9 hours), or overnight (~12 hours), it takes a few seconds to turn over. On the other hand, if I had just driven the car for 10-20 min, turned off, then turning over is instantaneous (as it should be). Which still leads me to believe it may be something draining the battery, or the battery itself is crapping out?

Thank you for your time!

 

Did you pay attention at your voltage gauge on the dashboard?
You need to eliminate the voltage regulator (good or bad). Since you say that after it runs quite a bit it starts better, that it means the alternator is doing it's job, but the battery either gets drained by a parasite, or is just plain crappy - it doesn't hold the charge anymore.

You said "back to Les Schwab" ----is that a shop or the place you bought your battery from last year?
If it came with some "2-3 years free replacement", I suspect they try to act like the battery is good, so they will not replace it for free.
Try to take the battery to AutoZone, Advance Auto, O'Reillys or the likes where you can double check (for free) if the battery is good indeed, or is crapping under load.
Keep us posted.

 

yes, we bought the current battery from Schwab last year.
I'll take your suggestion and take it into O'Reillys (the nearest place, besides Schwab).

Please excuse my ignorance, voltage guage on dash? I've not noticed any indicator lights coming on, except for when I'm low on fuel I'll go have a peek today when I get the chance.

Oh and here is what the Dealer said about the diagnostics:
"Performed bettery trest via battery manager. Battery is faulty and needs to be replaced. Battery was not properly replaced, battery manager has not been recorded for new battery. Recommend replacing battery correctly and coding system."

Which the Dealer then quoted as a little over $400... Since I haven't heard anything other than making sure I have the right codes for my radio (not specific, just things I've read about other cars), then I'm skeptical about this price...

I hate not really knowing how to do things on my own, for now, and since I depend on an auto-mechanic.

Thank you for your time!

Hopefully I'll get this fixed sooner rather than later!

 

Observe and record the battery voltage during the day:
Have you measured the battery voltage after period of no charge(car not running)?
Have you measured the eventual battery discharge due to short circuit somewhere?
Have you read your DTC?

 

Take the sound advice of chefro and have the battery tested @ Auto Zone/Advance Auto. That will determine if battery is toasty as well as tell you what the output of your alternator/regulator is. This is simple, easy and free and doesn't involve going to an Audi "stealer". You can then narrow the issues down, but I'll bet it's the battery which you can get at any NAPA store for alot less than $400.00.

 

Ok, I had to read again... sorry as I had no idea if Les Schwab is an Audi dealer or just an independent shop.
Now I see they're a tire chain.
Anyway, if the Audi dealer tested the same battery as BAD, you need to take it back to Les Schwab and demand a replacement. You can even take it to O'Reillys prior to doing that, so you'd have two different "proofs" that the battery is actually bad.
After only one year Les Schwab should replace it for FREE. The fact that they said "is good", suggests what I suspected.

However, after Les Scwab replaces it, you need to figure out what is draining the battery, or if anything at all is draining it.
Observe the voltage gauge (on the dash, yes) as nemohm suggested, and eventually have an OBD reading to see if you have any DTC codes storred.
Hopefully you'll get to the bottom of the problem.

P.S In any event - $ 400 at the dealer for a battery is a ripoff.