2000 A6 2.7T Repair worth it? New Engine?
#1
01-07-2009, 07:11 PM
2000 A6 2.7T Repair worth it? New Engine?
I have a 2000 A6 2.7T standard transmission with 141,000 miles. Still original clutch.
On Sunday the timing belt broke and the engine is damaged. I had replaced the original timing belt at 75K service. Estimate from local repair shop (I live in Escondido, CA which is by San Diego) is $4200.
I am very funds limited after a bad couple of professional work years so options are limited, and cannot afford any type of new car. In fact, my max budget is about what the repair estimate is.
I am having a lot of difficulty with the decision on what to do. Essentially I see three options:
1. Repair the car. I have maintained my car reaonably well, and exterior and interior are sound. Never been in an accident.
2. Buy a new car for around $4000. Very doubtfull I get a car as nice as the Audi, and cars in that range would be similar in age and mileage but with unknown repair histories.
3. Buy a salvaged or rebuilt 2.7T engine and have it installed. I could see this as being a great option but don't really know where to go to get this done or if it could be done within my budget.
Everyone here seems so knowledageable and helpful, and would love to hear advice/help on what you think I should do and maybe how to do it. Caveat: I am not a mechanic and would not be able to do the repairs or an engine install myself.
Would love to hear your thoughts on this unfortunate and difficult situation I face. Thanks!
On Sunday the timing belt broke and the engine is damaged. I had replaced the original timing belt at 75K service. Estimate from local repair shop (I live in Escondido, CA which is by San Diego) is $4200.
I am very funds limited after a bad couple of professional work years so options are limited, and cannot afford any type of new car. In fact, my max budget is about what the repair estimate is.
I am having a lot of difficulty with the decision on what to do. Essentially I see three options:
1. Repair the car. I have maintained my car reaonably well, and exterior and interior are sound. Never been in an accident.
2. Buy a new car for around $4000. Very doubtfull I get a car as nice as the Audi, and cars in that range would be similar in age and mileage but with unknown repair histories.
3. Buy a salvaged or rebuilt 2.7T engine and have it installed. I could see this as being a great option but don't really know where to go to get this done or if it could be done within my budget.
Everyone here seems so knowledageable and helpful, and would love to hear advice/help on what you think I should do and maybe how to do it. Caveat: I am not a mechanic and would not be able to do the repairs or an engine install myself.
Would love to hear your thoughts on this unfortunate and difficult situation I face. Thanks!
#2
01-07-2009, 07:57 PM
IF I were you I would change the belt myself is would be longer to do then getting it done at a shop but a lot cheaper the cost of the belt and thats about it.As for the engine damage it all depends on what is damaged and how bad.
#3
01-07-2009, 08:24 PM
Hence your best bet might be to list/sell your car on EBay....it may turn you'll get at least $ 1000 (judging by the year and overall good shape of the car). For one, you get rid of the headache; and secondly, you get yourself an extra $ 1000 dollars (or MUCH MORE) to your depleted budget.
Look the same time at rebuilt/repos on Ebay...you may be shocked about how cheap you may be able to buy for a more than decent car. Or find a decent used car locally and cope with the temporary situation.
It is good to have the best of the two world (fancy car + great job), but when the times get hard mind your priorities:
- Spend all the reserve money on repairing a car that you cannot repair yourself
OR
- Having a money reserve for any emergencies, yet driving a cheaper, easier to repair car.
If you have children, the choice should not be hard to make.
I'm not Suze Orman
, but I would definitely tell you to get a different car (while keeping some reserve fund for "difficult days") and avoid spending all of your money on repairing a car that you can have again when your professional endeavors pick up again.Good luck to you.
#4
01-07-2009, 08:33 PM
Damn! I wrote an essay and didn't login so it went. Here's the long and short:
A good, honest, diligent mechanic will be able to replace only what is needed and charge $3000, but as pointed out, they don't exist.
I bought my 2000 2.7T manual late last year in the same state for $2800, put some $1200 in parts into it and a lot of sweat to bring it back to life. There were several people interested in the car, so the price may be high. You may find a healthy level of interest in your car, bringing in a couple of grand if you are lucky. I would put it on craigslist and ask for offers around $3000.
Add your budget and get into a pretty nice car for $7000. Remain in the ranks of the 'comfortably off and car payment free' !
A good, honest, diligent mechanic will be able to replace only what is needed and charge $3000, but as pointed out, they don't exist.
I bought my 2000 2.7T manual late last year in the same state for $2800, put some $1200 in parts into it and a lot of sweat to bring it back to life. There were several people interested in the car, so the price may be high. You may find a healthy level of interest in your car, bringing in a couple of grand if you are lucky. I would put it on craigslist and ask for offers around $3000.
Add your budget and get into a pretty nice car for $7000. Remain in the ranks of the 'comfortably off and car payment free' !
#7
01-08-2009, 01:24 AM
4,000 sounds high, but I am in PA, you are in CA.
My belt jumped, 12 bent valves, 7 broken buckets, machine shop time and labor, parts for the heads was 1200. Mechs to disassemble, reassemble, COULD have brought it up to at least a couple thou.
My case is a little different from yours, bought June 18, jumped July 1, had 109 thou when I bought it, less than 500 more when it broke.
I bought the car without any records of repairs. You know yours was changed at 75 thou. You drove 66 thou on that belt. I have no idea how long this one had that belt on it, and, actually, the belt didn't break, tensioner pulley split and caused the jump, but same difference. Busted valves.
Car warranty that I bought payed for repairs, BUT, they paid just 832 bucks to buy and R&R. My mechs accepted that, but I was up there everyday and I think they got screwed. There is one hell of a lot of work in taking them engines out and putting another in.
All my former Audis were inline 5's, 5000 or 100. I could pull one and replace in less than a day, myself, in my garage, with a comealong over the cieling joists. Have done that a few times.
Could not do that, even if I were physically able, with this car and this engine. They ARE a sumbitch to work on.
4 thou sounds high, though. I thought things were tight out there, too. Mechs should be getting hungry, just as everybody else is. Mebbe you should look to see if another mechanic would do it for less.
Here, I found an engine in a boneyard for 450 bucks, bought a new belt and idler, tensioner, gave it to the boneyard to install (engine was not warranted unless the TB WAS replaced, THEY did that for me, they know it was done, the warantee was good.
To talk you into spending even more money you don't have, I'd urge you to replace the waterpump and themostat. They have to take off the TB and a bunch of plastic to replace those. THAT will cost you another arm or mebbe part of a leg.
I didn't, and I am a bit pissed that I didn't. I have not enough heat in my car in the dead of Winter. (CA, probably not much problem, but the pump has to circulate enough coolant to keep engine temp down.)
Cheers,
George
My belt jumped, 12 bent valves, 7 broken buckets, machine shop time and labor, parts for the heads was 1200. Mechs to disassemble, reassemble, COULD have brought it up to at least a couple thou.
My case is a little different from yours, bought June 18, jumped July 1, had 109 thou when I bought it, less than 500 more when it broke.
I bought the car without any records of repairs. You know yours was changed at 75 thou. You drove 66 thou on that belt. I have no idea how long this one had that belt on it, and, actually, the belt didn't break, tensioner pulley split and caused the jump, but same difference. Busted valves.
Car warranty that I bought payed for repairs, BUT, they paid just 832 bucks to buy and R&R. My mechs accepted that, but I was up there everyday and I think they got screwed. There is one hell of a lot of work in taking them engines out and putting another in.
All my former Audis were inline 5's, 5000 or 100. I could pull one and replace in less than a day, myself, in my garage, with a comealong over the cieling joists. Have done that a few times.
Could not do that, even if I were physically able, with this car and this engine. They ARE a sumbitch to work on.
4 thou sounds high, though. I thought things were tight out there, too. Mechs should be getting hungry, just as everybody else is. Mebbe you should look to see if another mechanic would do it for less.
Here, I found an engine in a boneyard for 450 bucks, bought a new belt and idler, tensioner, gave it to the boneyard to install (engine was not warranted unless the TB WAS replaced, THEY did that for me, they know it was done, the warantee was good.
To talk you into spending even more money you don't have, I'd urge you to replace the waterpump and themostat. They have to take off the TB and a bunch of plastic to replace those. THAT will cost you another arm or mebbe part of a leg.
I didn't, and I am a bit pissed that I didn't. I have not enough heat in my car in the dead of Winter. (CA, probably not much problem, but the pump has to circulate enough coolant to keep engine temp down.)
Cheers,
George
#8
01-08-2009, 09:48 AM
If you are tight on funds, i'd move away from a car such as yours and move to something that will give you maybe a little less performance and a little more bang for your buck. I'd try looking around for a nice 2.8 B5 5-speed. But that is just me!
If you really dig your ride, put down some decent bucks and bring it back to life.
EDIT: At 141k you *may* be creeping up on a new clutch and/or set of turbos...
If you really dig your ride, put down some decent bucks and bring it back to life.
EDIT: At 141k you *may* be creeping up on a new clutch and/or set of turbos...
#9
01-08-2009, 11:48 PM
You can get an engine from one of the eBay "shops" with 66,000 miles on it for $2400 plus shipping, but they will ship only to a garage or other commercial establishment. Add in installation and parts needed including new TB and WP, and you would be back at $4200 or more very quickly, including labor. The mileage differential would seem to favor the engine swap but you would still have a car with 141,000 miles on it. In either case, though, while the engine was out you have to replace the clutch because it just makes sense since it was never changed before.
Bottom line is this - The estimate you got from the shop of $4200 just cannot be justified, as your car is not worth very much with the mileage you have on it. Look in the recent threads here and you will see that somebody posted auction prices for cars with mileage similar to or lower than yours, and the prices are relatively low, considering they are for running vehicles, in comparison to what it will cost for you to bring your car back to life.
As sad as it can be in making this decision, you've got to think about your financial situation and your family first, so the best thing for you would be to get rid of it for what you can get out of it and get yourself something reliable, with less mileage, and easier on the wallet as far as maintenance is concerned. Then, if you want to come back to Audis when you are in a better position to do so, and know that you are going to have a relatively high maintenance auto on your hands again, take the plunge.
Bottom line is this - The estimate you got from the shop of $4200 just cannot be justified, as your car is not worth very much with the mileage you have on it. Look in the recent threads here and you will see that somebody posted auction prices for cars with mileage similar to or lower than yours, and the prices are relatively low, considering they are for running vehicles, in comparison to what it will cost for you to bring your car back to life.
As sad as it can be in making this decision, you've got to think about your financial situation and your family first, so the best thing for you would be to get rid of it for what you can get out of it and get yourself something reliable, with less mileage, and easier on the wallet as far as maintenance is concerned. Then, if you want to come back to Audis when you are in a better position to do so, and know that you are going to have a relatively high maintenance auto on your hands again, take the plunge.
#10
01-09-2009, 11:00 PM
My 2 cents would be to buy a cheaper car and part out your Audi. A couple of grand for a non-running complete car doesn't compare to selling off the parts individually.