The Audi god's must be frowning upon me. I have a 2000 A6 4.2 w/Tip, every morning now when I start out in the morning to take kids to school the cars drives great. Once the trans warms up and I come to a stop, the car goes into fail safe mode. It feels like it slipping in first, then once I get up to speed no more slip. I took it to the local parts place and its coding the familiar 0730 & a evap code too that I can't remember. There's no leaks that I'm aware of, and why would it run great while it's cold but slip when its warm? All help is greatly appreciated!

 

Ok so you have the code and you don't take the time to google it?

It tells you to deal with your transmission, amoungst other things....

 

I did google it, checked for the famous water in the passenger floor, dry as a bone. I've purchased filter and fluids to do a fluid change, have to wait till tomorrow to do it. I was just referring to why it would do it after it warmed up, but not while it was cold. Is it something I was missing here?

 

The viscosity of cold oil based fluid is greater than when it warms up. When it warms up, it looses more of its lubrication capabilities.

Since your are doing a fluid change yourself I just want to point out that your mileage will vary on your success.

Please take a couple of my points in consideration.

- I've owned several vehicles with auto transmissions
- I've done tranny fluid changes on a couple
- I've stopped doing it myself and let the professionals do it.

Why? You can never fully cycle or bleed with out a proper pressurized machine. Audi's, like VW have been known to be happier with a transmission shop doing the work.

Even though you can drain most of the fluid, you never will touch the torque converter, which still holds 30% of your old fluid. Thus you will lower the quality of the new stuff you put it. Mix new water with muddy water = you still have muddy water analogy.

IMO - return the fluid you bought, don't take the audi to a stealership - take it to a nice transmission shop/ or exhaust shop. I recently did a full flush on my Audi and Mazda using the BG product line at a shop I use.

Very happy with the results. It took care of alot of the symptoms in my Audi that you describe related to the transmission.

there is A LOT of advice running around with transmissions. The point is, if yours is going to fail, it will fail. Doesn't matter if you flush it or not.

Flushing/changing the fluid is the best option - yes it can create more problems, but that means your tranny was going to die anyways. Kind of like getting a heart bypass too late and you end of croaking anyways - sorry to be morbid.

 

Thank you, I've been doing research for about five days on this and heard everything from low fluid, valve body, TC, Clutch pack, sensors, and half a dozen other things it could be. With the fluid change being the cheapest, I took it to a shop, they couldn't get the fill plug out and didn't want to break the pan so ... I'm going to have to do it my self, If I break it oh well, I'll buy another one. I also wanted to change the filter anyways and check the pan for metal to see if it could be something mechanical that went wrong. If I do see signs, I'll just rebuild it myself with some help from a friend that's a transmission mechanic. He's never done a audi and I can do the labor, I don't want to pay some one to do something that I can learn from. From the looks of the reviews, I might be doing this several times as I plan on buying more audi's. With hopes I can narrow my problems down to what has happened to mine thru others experiences here. I truly appreciate your help and insight and if the trans fluid solves this problem I'll have it redone at a shop correctly with the machine, but if this doesn't it's money saved, I can drop the trans and get the manual. If I have to send off for a valve body oversize or rebuild the clutch packs with help from my friend it'll be thousand I've saved and knowledge that will be priceless in the future.

 

Ok! Change fluid didn't help! Noticed the fluid smelled burnt. So can I rule out the valve body & look into the clutch pack?

 

never mind I think I discovered the reason in this link below
ZF 5HP24 teardown

 

The top of the A-drum hub is torn partially away. It will need to be replaced and the trans. rebuilt.

 

Thank You for your time, I appreciate all the help! Jackson101!

 

here's another link that describes the problem I'm having also.
Audi S8 Auto ZF 5HP24A rebuild... :: motorgeek.com