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2001 A6 2.7 L - Oil Change Question
Hi,
Need some help....I can'd anywhere instructions on how much oil is needed when doing an oil/filter change on a 2001 2.7L A6. Also, any advice on oil type...synthetic, weight? Also, any tricks to doing the change? Thanks so much! Bill |
5W-40 synthetic... Castrol syntec worked fine for me so far, but some swears by Mobil 1, others by redline... If you ask me, any reputable synthetic will do. The precedure is pretty straight forward. Get the car up to working temperature, remove the belly pan. Unscrew oil filler cap, and loosen the drain plug. Replace the filter with new and replace copper o-ring around the drain plug with new. Tighten everything back up and fill with about 6 1/2 quart.
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Originally Posted by hxgaser
(Post 1051003)
5W-40 synthetic... Castrol syntec worked fine for me so far, but some swears by Mobil 1, others by redline... If you ask me, any reputable synthetic will do. The precedure is pretty straight forward. Get the car up to working temperature, remove the belly pan. Unscrew oil filler cap, and loosen the drain plug. Replace the filter with new and replace copper o-ring around the drain plug with new. Tighten everything back up and fill with about 6 1/2 quart.
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Originally Posted by JDw124
(Post 1051056)
Do you have to replace the ring every time you change the oil? Also what's your personal average cost on an oil change for your A6? I'm debating whether to do the changes myself or pay $89 at the dealership.
On the other hand, the o-ring is dirt cheap, so you might as well change it for some added piece of mind (if you're the type that once finishing the job you don't have another gaze under the car until the next change). That's another way to look at it. As far as the oil change average cost, it depends on what supplies you use. For Quartz Total INEO - 5 L bottle I paid $ 34.79. A MANN long-life filter was $ 11.90. For my car the o-ring was 33 cents. The total comes to $ 47.02. This is the price without s&h. Next time I'll reduce the total by getting Mobil1 0w-40 from WalMart or OReillys and a cheaper filter. |
Originally Posted by chefro
(Post 1051078)
If the plug doesn't leak with the old ring on, changing it every time is pretty much overkill. That's one way to look at it.
On the other hand, the o-ring is dirt cheap, so you might as well change it for some added piece of mind (if you're the type that once finishing the job you don't have another gaze under the car until the next change). That's another way to look at it. As far as the oil change average cost, it depends on what supplies you use. For Quartz Total INEO - 5 L bottle I paid $ 34.79. A MANN long-life filter was $ 11.90. For my car the o-ring was 33 cents. The total comes to $ 47.02. This is the price without s&h. Next time I'll reduce the total by getting Mobil1 0w-40 from WalMart or OReillys and a cheaper filter. |
0-40 will work just fine. The copper washer is reusable. If worried about it, heat it up until it glows red, then let it cool down. That will remove the case hardening that happens when you tighten the bolt and make it nice and soft just like brand new!
And, it takes 7.5 quarts of oil. Bob |
I know the washers are reusable, but you can get a 10 pack from local parts shop for a dollar... What the hell... I live a little.
As for the cost of oil change I pay about $6/quart on oil and about $10 for filter. Ends up being about $55. If you live in a cold climnate you can use 5w-30. Also if you live in a warm climate, you can use 10W-40. It all depends. 5W-40 is just standard recommended oil by the manufacturer. |
OIL -- Anything slippery will do LOL but 10-40 is best for my A6 2.8 and olive oil is best for me
Filter - always use Mann for my A6 - but it is woman for me timing -- whenever I have time - for either |
Originally Posted by bob martin
(Post 1051106)
And, it takes 7.5 quarts of oil.
Bob Of course you have your own issues that you cannot figure out, but you are one of the more knowledgeable folks in here. So probably you might be able to satisfy my curiosity regarding the oil capacity (of course, if you don't mind me asking you). Why is that a lower cc rated engine (2.7L) takes 1/3 more oil than a higher cc rated engine (2.8L)? |
Bigger oil pan???
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• ◆ 2.7 liter V6 5V turbo: 6.5 liters (6.9 qt.)
• ◆ 2.8 liter V6 5V: 5.7 liters (6.0 qt.) • ◆ 3.0 liter V6 5V: 6.6 liters (6.3 qt.) • ◆ 4.2 liter V8 5V: 7.6 liters (8.0 qt.) |
The reason I asked is that when I changed the oil in my 2.8 L V6 (12V) only 4 3/4 quarts sufficed. The car doesn't lose any oil, and after 500 miles or so the proper level confirms the quantity.
In an earlier post, Bob mentioned the 7.5 quarts capacity of the 2.7L. That's 2.5 more quarts (1/3 more) than the required or satisfactory quantity for my 2.8L. Thanks, Nemohm. P.S. I hope that "5V" doesnt stand for "5 valves", does it? It would make no sense for a V6 or a V8 engine... |
If I may, I'm due for my first oil change as an Audi owner on a 110k, 01 A6 2.7L. I've always changed my own oil on other vehicles. A couple of questions...
1. On a scale of 1-10, how difficult is changing the oil on these versus other cars you may have done. 2. I'm sold on full synthetic (I use Mobil 1), but what weight would you guys recommend for a 110k mileage bi-turbo car? Would a thinner weight be advisable if it's higher mileage? I was told that oil clogging and not getting to the turbos on higher mileage vehicles can be a culprit to turbo failure... don't know if that's true or not. 3. Can you get these Mann filters at any auto parts store or only Audi dealerships? I'm keen to do these my self rather than $79 at the local Audi dealership, but if it's a royal pain, I'll divy it out. Thanks in advance to anyone that's willing to help. |
If your dealer is charging $75 for an oil change, then it maybe worth it. Mine charges about $100.
Anyways, here are answers to your questions. 1. Compared to other cars, there is no difference other than the fact that you have to drop the belly pan. Another 5 minutes. 2. Syntherics is good. Factory recommends 5w-40. I have been using castrol 5w-50. If you live in warm area 10w-40 works, if you live in cold area 5w-30 can be good. All depends, but pretty much anything around that range would work. 3. If your local shop is good, then you should be able to get Mann filter. or order it from the internet. I personally use Bosch or Wix filters. They have been working out okay. |
Originally Posted by hxgaser
(Post 1053957)
If your dealer is charging $75 for an oil change, then it maybe worth it. Mine charges about $100.
Anyways, here are answers to your questions. 1. Compared to other cars, there is no difference other than the fact that you have to drop the belly pan. Another 5 minutes. 2. Syntherics is good. Factory recommends 5w-40. I have been using castrol 5w-50. If you live in warm area 10w-40 works, if you live in cold area 5w-30 can be good. All depends, but pretty much anything around that range would work. 3. If your local shop is good, then you should be able to get Mann filter. or order it from the internet. I personally use Bosch or Wix filters. They have been working out okay. |
PS - found this site. germanfilters.com Looks like pretty good prices. Just ordered a 4 pack of oil filters, spare plus and some air filters for not to bad a price (compared to what I thought I'd pay).
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I am not an oil expert by any means, but here is what I know about the 0W stuff. Cars these days are getting so sophisticated with smaller and smaller manufacturing tolerances. Newer engines have very small and tight tolerances where really free flowing oil is required to lubricate those parts. That is where the 0W stuff comes in. If you see the 0W oil, it really flows like water, not oil.
Old school thinking is that heavier the oil, more protection it provides. I wouldn't use 0W oil on cars that was not designed for it. With higher mileage cars, you tend to want to use something heavier than the original spec stuff anyways. Idea is that you get the heaviest weight oil which is still thin enough to flow in your engine at temperature range you drive in. |
Originally Posted by chefro
(Post 1052052)
P.S. I hope that "5V" doesnt stand for "5 valves", does it? It would make no sense for a V6 or a V8 engine...
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The great Audi OEM filter (Mann W 930/21) is rated for 2 years or 30 000 km oil change intervals.
Why not use something designed to support 5k oil changes and help the environment? |
Originally Posted by hxgaser
(Post 1053995)
Old school thinking is that heavier the oil, more protection it provides... ...With higher mileage cars, you tend to want to use something heavier than the original spec stuff anyways. Idea is that you get the heaviest weight oil which is still thin enough to flow in your engine at temperature range you drive in.
I have a 2.7T (which I'm told is better to run a lighter oil to allow the best possible flow of oil through the turbo sieves (not my terminology)), yet since it's higher mileage one could argue a heavier-than-spec weight necessary from high mileage wear. So do those 2 factors just average back out to the factory spec of 5w-40? Sub-question, I can get screaming deals on Mobil1 Synthetic 5w-30 and 10w-40 (under $30 a case), considering my factors... turbo, high mileage, fairly cold winter climate... will either of those suffice? |
If you ask me, either one of the two will work. Personally, I would use 10W-40 and just warm up slowly.
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Originally Posted by hxgaser
(Post 1062688)
...use 10W-40 and just warm up slowly.
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Cold weather in Florida or cold weather in N.Dakota?
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Originally Posted by nemohm
(Post 1063240)
Cold weather in Florida or cold weather in N.Dakota?
PS - I'm from ND originally, it's not THAT cold here. ...it's why I left.... |
There is a situation I've been pondering upon some time.
Blends: One blends 0W-40 and 15w-50 (equal amounts). What the result will be: 1. an oil with 7.5w-45 2. an oil that provides range of 0w-50 protection and features. What are your thoughts about this? |
Probably as long as both are the same brand and formulation (synthetic; non-synthetic) the symbiotic mixture would lubricate as good as any of the two individually. If you mix different brands, then you may run into incompatibilities of additives, anti-oxidants, etc.
A petrochemist would definitely offer you the "right" answer you're looking for. However, I don't see why mixing different grades is necessary. The different oil grades are already formulated to offer the proper protection for the various climate-traffic conditions they're designed for. If the resulting "7.5W-45" would be superior to 0W-40 and 15W-50, don't you think that the manufacturers would have already come up with such an "universal" grade? They are actually performing tests, as compared to us, just drivers who fantasize about a new "miraculous" oil grade. __________________________________________________ ___________________ For what is worth, here's a potential answer for you : All mineral oils are produced from the same basic petroleum feedstocks. Different oil viscosities will not separate or react negatively to each other because the base oil is molecularly the same. It's the different oil additive systems between brands that shouldn't be mixed - if you're concerned about the oil performing exactly how it was designed. Oil additives include: Anti-oxidants to prevent thickening at high operating temperatures. Pour point depressants which lower the temperature of wax coagulation alkaline materials to neutralize acids formed during combustion. Rust and corrosion inhibitors. Detergents to reduce sludge and varnish. Dispersant additives to hold contaminants in suspension. Extreme pressure additives to prevent metal to metal contact under high loads. Viscosity index improvers in formulating muilt-grade (viscosity) oils. The exact type and amount of these additives varies between brands and when mixed may not function as efficiently as desired. Different viscosities of the same brand oil will have different amounts of viscosity index improvers (polymers), but otherwise the additive systems will be the same. From the Chevron.com site: "Can I mix different viscosity grades of motor oils?" "Yes. It is always advisable to not mix motor oil brands, however, different viscosity grades of the same brand motor oil are compatible. Be aware that mixing viscosity grades will turn out a product that is different in viscosity than either what was originally in the engine or what was added." From Shell.ca: "If you mix viscosity grades such as a 5W30 low-viscosity oil and a 10W40 higher-viscosity oil, it is reasonable to expect that the resulting product will have viscosity characteristics which are thicker than the 5W30, but thinner than the 10W40. This change does not reflect incompatibility - it's simply a re-balancing of the viscosity characteristics. In all other ways, the product should work as expected. But there's absolutely no danger about incompatibility resulting from mixing engine oils," Miller says. "We've tested all of our grades and brands, and we haven't observed any problems." From Mobil1.com: "For our customers to choose a viscosity grade, we recommend they follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations as indicated in their owner's manual. There is no need to mix two Mobil 1 viscosity grades when one will do; however, we see no problem mixing different SAE grades of Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic series motor oils." I agree that mixing oil viscosities isn't really necessary though. 5W-30 is going to have the same viscosity as 10W-30 when the oil is hot... might as well just use 5W-30 for its cold temperature "flowability". So the viscosity mixing argument is kind of pointless. |
Very comprehensive, indeed!
Then the result of mixing is answer 1+2 (as I always suspected). The benefit of mixing I see is that using Mobil1 one could archive the the critical 5w-40 viscosity that is not in production! => mixing 0w-40 and 10w-40. This is going to be my winning formulation at the next oil change (I believe)! |
Interesting discussion on mixing viscosity indeed!
As going back to 6605Stang, I guess you can mix different grade to come up with your own "brew." But considering the mileage and all, I would just use 10W-40 at all times. Just warm up slowly especially during cold months. |
Originally Posted by hxgaser
(Post 1063352)
Just warm up slowly especially during cold months.
__________________________________________________ ___________ Nemohm: By the way, what do you mean by: "the critical 5w-40 viscosity that is not in production!" ? Are you talking solely about Mobil1 Synthetic for "small" cars? |
Based on:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...s/Mobil_1.aspx what oil for "small" car is ? (Geo Metro). Having a resulting viscosity might not be so strait forward, as the viscosity is defined by the length of the molecules. There will be a mechanical mixture of molecules with different length, correct? Not a new averaged length molecule! |
I asked you because you said that 5W-40 is not in production...
Actually are quite a few oil companies that produce the "critical" 5W-40... including Mobil1, which appears to have a Mobil1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 and a Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40. Hence my directing question toward "small" cars... the idea..."smaller" than trucks. You can call them how you please: Small family car/compact car; Large family car/mid-size car; Full-size car/large car; Compact executive car/entry-level luxury car ; Executive car/mid-luxury car; Full-size car; etc... |
Mobil Delvac 1 is the best!
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