Has anyone changed their own?I went to the dealer and he told me it would cost about 1200 to change, but then he seen i had a 3.0 and was like you got the special one wich will run about 3000...!!.. any suggestions?
Thanks

 

Yeah, and $3,000 is just for the belt probably. They didn't even add in the water pump, rollers, thermostat, tensioners ect.
Doing it yourself will require you to buy around $500 in special tools, and about $400 to buy every part you will need to do the job correctly. All in all, if you have the time its worth it to do yourself. You have, have, have to be very skilled to work on a 3.0L engine, im not even kidding with you here. The serpintine belt tensioner alone could take your head off without the correct tools and instructions. If your not experienced, i would not try tackling a T belt job on a 3.0L.
Find a great euro shop, and have them install the parts that you get online.
Check out www.ecstuning.com or www.purems.com for Timing belt kits.

 

Please tell me that you are joking about the 3K...

 

Im really not joking. This quote of course is from a dealer on the west coast that charges $135 an hour. Getting the job done in different areas in the country or at an indy shop will have different prices. However, if its less than $2,000 for a 3.0L, they are leaving something out.

 

just outta curiousity how much different is the 3.0L timing job different from the 2.8L?

 

WoW, take your head off!!, i mean i was thinkin bout doing it myself, but now, i dont know... and ya im gonna have to buy the parts, my milage jus hit 110 yesterday, so i gotta get on that, but what i also wanted to know ... is there a way to see if its been changed? cause i bough it at 97 k, and im not sure if they changed it, i want to be sure before i spend unessary.

 

Well for starters there is a lot less space to work on the 3.0L engine, the serpintine belt is tensioned by an un-godly big spring that requires a special tool to take off. The cams on the 3.0L are 4 hydraulic internal units, they must be taken off. Then the valve covers have to be taken off to lock the cams with 4 special tools that look like horse shoes, (no cam bar here) then you have to loosen the subframe to gain enough access to install the crank holder. (I usually skip that part because the crank never really moves)
The power steering pump must come off, water pump is a punk to get off, thermostat, timing covers, just everything sucks to do! [:@]

I wouldn't spit on a 3.0L if it were on fire, i hate them that much.

 

HAHAHAHA Auditech i love how u put it haha! But yeah im a novice when it comes to all the components. I just had my 2.8 done cvaxle kit and TB done for $1,000. I mean i had my uncle do itat his shop so isavedall the labor and that mumbo jumbo. Thanks for the Info though i would never have guessed they would be so different.

 

If i knew this b4 hand i wouldnt have bought a 3.0 lol

 

IM GUESSING I SHOULD GET A FULL KIT
WITH A METAL WATER PUMP

Partial Kit includes:
- OEM Tensioning damper
- OEM Tensioner Roller
- OEM Relay Roller
- OEM Tensioner Lever Arm
- OEM Timing Belt
Full Kit includes:
- OEM Tensioning damper
- OEM Tensioner Roller
- OEM Relay Roller
- OEM Tensioner Lever Arm
- OEM Timing Belt
- OEM Thermostat with O-Ring
- OEM Serpentine Belt
- All Metal Water Pump