2003/4 A6 2.7T - Timing belt.
#1
2003/4 A6 2.7T - Timing belt.
I have a 2003/4 Audi A6 2.7T with 88,000 klms (55,000 miles) on the clock.
I have owned the car for 2 years now and am very happy with it.
My question is should I replace the Timing belts before the recommended interval (120K klms)? - and the reason for the doubt is that I live in Hong Kong where the car spends alot of time idling or traveling at slow speeds!!
Appreciate any feedback
Many thanks
Andy
I have owned the car for 2 years now and am very happy with it.
My question is should I replace the Timing belts before the recommended interval (120K klms)? - and the reason for the doubt is that I live in Hong Kong where the car spends alot of time idling or traveling at slow speeds!!
Appreciate any feedback
Many thanks
Andy
#4
Do tensioners, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, etc (a whole water pump kit) -- not just the timing belt. See site like www.blauparts.com for sample kit. Do a search on this forum for discussions about TB work.
I agree it makes sense to do it earlier based on lots of idling.
I agree it makes sense to do it earlier based on lots of idling.
#6
Update....
Dealer is recommending we replace the belts now (88K Klms) - can't help thinking that he is trying to keep his cashflow going at my expense...
Should I stick to replacing at 105K Klms (ie this time next year)?
Any thoughts?
Andy
Dealer is recommending we replace the belts now (88K Klms) - can't help thinking that he is trying to keep his cashflow going at my expense...
Should I stick to replacing at 105K Klms (ie this time next year)?
Any thoughts?
Andy
#7
Andy,
If it breaks next week, will you still feel the dealer wants to make a few, well, a lot, of bucks? Did he have your best interest in mind?
Do as you wish. I have just gone thru a "jumped" belt. Had it broken, I would have not been covered under warranty. Since it did not break, the warranty company paid.
Rebuild the heads. 1300 bucks. Again, do as you wish. Pay now or pay more later.
I would, however, seek out a good independent Eurocar mech who SHOULD charge a lower shop rate.
Cheers,
George
If it breaks next week, will you still feel the dealer wants to make a few, well, a lot, of bucks? Did he have your best interest in mind?
Do as you wish. I have just gone thru a "jumped" belt. Had it broken, I would have not been covered under warranty. Since it did not break, the warranty company paid.
Rebuild the heads. 1300 bucks. Again, do as you wish. Pay now or pay more later.
I would, however, seek out a good independent Eurocar mech who SHOULD charge a lower shop rate.
Cheers,
George
#8
Thanks George, I must admit I am coming round to the idea it is better to have it done now. Peace of mind if you like...
just for reference - what age is your car and what was the mileage when your belt jumped?
Cheers,
Andy
just for reference - what age is your car and what was the mileage when your belt jumped?
Cheers,
Andy
#9
Andy,
97 A6, 2.8. 109 thou, and I had bought it just 2 weeks before, no records on it, except for Carquest or whatever they call it. First 50k miles were as rental/lease, auction after. No reference to major repairs, or recommended repairs. Inspections in the report, yes. Makes me think that CarFax, not quest, is lax.
If a mechanic does not report that this major repair was done, you know nothing beyond what you might find in a notepad from an owner who was meticulous.
In my case, it was not the belt. The tensioner has rims on the bearing that are, basically, stampings. More or less pieces of tubing that have a flange upset on them. Think of a circular angle iron. Pressed onto the bearing. Anyhow, mine broke, flexed itself more or less straight. Rippled, of course. Towed in, that piece was still under the plastic shroud. I took pics.
Warranty explicitly stated that TB is not covered. TENSIONER is covered, and any damage from it.
Result. Engine replaced. That was not the end of my problems, but that is neither here nor there.
Aw, poop. Yeah, I will give a bit of advice. IF you buy an engine, look closely behind the flex plate, aka the fly wheel. Mine, the wreckers dropped a torque converter bolt inside the starter hole. No way for that to fall out. Close clearances. Got the car back, drove it, occasional grinding noises. Mechs can't figure it out. Next day, "bang-bang-bang". Back in the garage, pull the starter, not easy, flex plate rivets busted off.
Pull the tranny, mangled torque converter bolt falls out when they pull the flex plate off. Busted rear main seal cover. My old motor still there. Take parts from that. Call the yard. They pay for the labor. Their goofup.
I love the car. I've driven Audis for 25 years. My daughter drives a Honda Ridgeline. Had to borrow my old 90 100, loved it. Borrowed this machine. Ecstatic.
I bought her an 85 5000 Turbo when she was a senior in HS. Loved that one, too.
I think I will get them into an Audi, soon. Hope it isn't because I died and they get mine. Then, again, what would I care?
This sum'bitch I got now is about the best car I have ever owned. Stable as a table. Quattro, I can even make it up that kid's driveway, and I could not with that 90 100. This sucker can climb walls. It can't stop much better than other cars, tho', on ice.
Cheers,
George
97 A6, 2.8. 109 thou, and I had bought it just 2 weeks before, no records on it, except for Carquest or whatever they call it. First 50k miles were as rental/lease, auction after. No reference to major repairs, or recommended repairs. Inspections in the report, yes. Makes me think that CarFax, not quest, is lax.
If a mechanic does not report that this major repair was done, you know nothing beyond what you might find in a notepad from an owner who was meticulous.
In my case, it was not the belt. The tensioner has rims on the bearing that are, basically, stampings. More or less pieces of tubing that have a flange upset on them. Think of a circular angle iron. Pressed onto the bearing. Anyhow, mine broke, flexed itself more or less straight. Rippled, of course. Towed in, that piece was still under the plastic shroud. I took pics.
Warranty explicitly stated that TB is not covered. TENSIONER is covered, and any damage from it.
Result. Engine replaced. That was not the end of my problems, but that is neither here nor there.
Aw, poop. Yeah, I will give a bit of advice. IF you buy an engine, look closely behind the flex plate, aka the fly wheel. Mine, the wreckers dropped a torque converter bolt inside the starter hole. No way for that to fall out. Close clearances. Got the car back, drove it, occasional grinding noises. Mechs can't figure it out. Next day, "bang-bang-bang". Back in the garage, pull the starter, not easy, flex plate rivets busted off.
Pull the tranny, mangled torque converter bolt falls out when they pull the flex plate off. Busted rear main seal cover. My old motor still there. Take parts from that. Call the yard. They pay for the labor. Their goofup.
I love the car. I've driven Audis for 25 years. My daughter drives a Honda Ridgeline. Had to borrow my old 90 100, loved it. Borrowed this machine. Ecstatic.
I bought her an 85 5000 Turbo when she was a senior in HS. Loved that one, too.
I think I will get them into an Audi, soon. Hope it isn't because I died and they get mine. Then, again, what would I care?
This sum'bitch I got now is about the best car I have ever owned. Stable as a table. Quattro, I can even make it up that kid's driveway, and I could not with that 90 100. This sucker can climb walls. It can't stop much better than other cars, tho', on ice.
Cheers,
George
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