The check engine light is on and the OBD codes are 8304, 8198, 9220, 8199, among other, apparently unrelated codes such as 5715 (ABS) 290 and 287 (speed sensor), and 1371 (?). Mechanic is recommending a vacuum leak test to determine source of a vacuum leak and will then advise of what's needed to repair. I'm just looking to see if these seems correct? What the source of the problem might be.

I bought the car from the original owner who indicated the vehicle had to be modified by Audi to pass CA emissions but I can't recall how.

Any insight appreciated. Thanks.

 

I'm now advised its a defective air intake manifold, cost $1300 plus labor. The flaps are sticking. Is there any work around instead of buying a new manifold? Codes are 8198 and 8199 and 8304.

Can I clean it? Is there a part within the actuator I could replace? Thanks.

 

Are they referring to the aluminum intake linkage arms?

Check this out: http://www.gruvenparts.com/content/w...ize/A4_DIY.pdf

I'm not sure if the linked PDF applies to the 3.2, but this is a common issue that I've seen pop up on these forums before. Ask the dealer if the linkage arms failed and if so, this is a sub 100 dollar fix. Audi will just throw a new intake manifold in there to make sure the car doesn't come back with a similar problem. Oh, and they probably bill like 6 hours of labor to do this job plus the part so that's where they get $1300 from.

 

Thanks, Nebuchadnezzar. The codes they were pulling up didn't reference linkage arms, only that the "variable intake sticking/open" and "intake flap for control" were sticking closed.

Looking at that PDF it doesn't apply to 3.2 and mechanic insists new part is needed. I'm wondering why they are "sticking". If it's building up can't you just clean the build up? If it's a blown fuse or something? I'm not that smart, admittedly.

 

Oops, silly me. The broken part wouldn't be aluminum. They can be replaced with aluminum arms instead of plastic. Assuming that's what they are talking about, that is.

I would seriously ask in specific what the failure is/was. A new intake manifold seems a bit over kill if you ask me.

 

I think on an older engine they also replace the intake manifold rather then cleaning it. Unfortunately they do that a lot with some parts. The flaps are only plastic and depending on age and usage there is a good chance you break them when you clean them. I'm assuming that is why they decide to replace it rather then clean it (besides - cleaning probably adds so many more hours to the job that it wouldn't be much cheaper).
On my 4.2 (2002) my intake manifold flaps were stuck as well. I ordered the gruvenparts to replace the plastic arms (that were still fine) but I just wanted to be safe for the future.
Any way I took the manifold out and performed the usual DIY: clean the flaps, grind a little here and there, lubricate the moving parts - put it all back together and saved myself 1200$
However I cannot say for sure it will be that easy on a 2006 model (who knows if they added some electronic parts...)

 

Thanks Sheldon. Advised by mechanic that 2006 and later models do have somekind of electronic control, but the intake manifold itself doesn't seem hard to remove. I think opening it would be the challenge.

 

Having not been able to come up with another solution, I've ordered the OEM part whole sale, which amounts to about a $200 savings (after shipping charges) - $1200 instead of $1400.

 

After install, got low oil level light, went for oil change, and same mechanic is telling me that valve covers are leaking oil and threatening cooling pumps. Are these valve covers related to the intake manifold?