A 6 Front CV Joint boot
#1
06-04-2006, 04:22 PM
A 6 Front CV Joint boot
The CV boot on the driver side of my wife's 2000 A6 is split at one of the bellows and has coated the inside of the rally wheel and part of the wheel well with grease.
Has any damage been done and also is the boot something I can replace myself.
Dealer charged me over $600 to do the passenger side one year ago. (I think they repalced the CV joint also)
I have never done anything on this car (usually dealer serviced) as I usually work only on my GM product. Please be detailed with any instructions and advice. Thank you in advance,
Kurt
Has any damage been done and also is the boot something I can replace myself.
Dealer charged me over $600 to do the passenger side one year ago. (I think they repalced the CV joint also)
I have never done anything on this car (usually dealer serviced) as I usually work only on my GM product. Please be detailed with any instructions and advice. Thank you in advance,
Kurt
#2
06-04-2006, 05:20 PM
RE: A 6 Front CV Joint boot
On the A6 it is not a bad job. You are always supposed to replace the CV's in sets of axles (fronts together or rears together). Your rears should last a long time but the fronts usually last about 120K +-.
Anyway, I think you can get brand new axles with the boots (because there are two on each axle) already on them for like 180$ or a boot kit if the joints are ok for 50$ (for inner and outer)
The axle bolts to the transfer case with 5-6 bolts and then it just sits in the hub on the wheel side. Remove the wheel, pull out the speed sensor so you don't damage it, it is a lot of work but the axle will come out once you unbolt it. You might have to remove some stabilizer parts but I got mine off with out. If doing the boot kit, electrical tape the teeth on the axle temporarily while you put the boot on too protect it. Make sure you clean the CV joint completely to check for wear. Put as much grease as you can into the new boot.
It is about an hour and a half or two hours an axle.
Really you should have a book to look at while you do it, Do you have the bentley cds or book?
Anyway, I think you can get brand new axles with the boots (because there are two on each axle) already on them for like 180$ or a boot kit if the joints are ok for 50$ (for inner and outer)
The axle bolts to the transfer case with 5-6 bolts and then it just sits in the hub on the wheel side. Remove the wheel, pull out the speed sensor so you don't damage it, it is a lot of work but the axle will come out once you unbolt it. You might have to remove some stabilizer parts but I got mine off with out. If doing the boot kit, electrical tape the teeth on the axle temporarily while you put the boot on too protect it. Make sure you clean the CV joint completely to check for wear. Put as much grease as you can into the new boot.
It is about an hour and a half or two hours an axle.
Really you should have a book to look at while you do it, Do you have the bentley cds or book?
#5
06-04-2006, 05:35 PM
RE: A 6 Front CV Joint boot
Whatever. Well I mean now just replace the side that was not done that is bad, but the first time (a year ago) he should have had both the front axles done. I mean come on it is pretty much the same price for one or both and now a year later he has the other side blown. You can't say that CV boots are independent. If there is one bad one on the front, replace the whole front. If there is one bad one on the rear (rare, never happens) replace the whole rear.
I am not saying replace the whole car's boots, and I am not saying replace the one done a year ago. But a year ago you should have done both (and maybe some newbie who finds this years from now will take this as a learning lesson).
Anyway, replacing the inners with the outers is an extra 15 bucks for the kit and takes an extra 45 seconds, I know the inners tear a lot less but 45 seconds and 15 bucks, have you ever taken off the axles, I only want to do it once in my cars life.
And no I am not drinking, my spelling is way to good for that.
I am not saying replace the whole car's boots, and I am not saying replace the one done a year ago. But a year ago you should have done both (and maybe some newbie who finds this years from now will take this as a learning lesson).
Anyway, replacing the inners with the outers is an extra 15 bucks for the kit and takes an extra 45 seconds, I know the inners tear a lot less but 45 seconds and 15 bucks, have you ever taken off the axles, I only want to do it once in my cars life.
And no I am not drinking, my spelling is way to good for that.
#6
06-04-2006, 05:37 PM
RE: A 6 Front CV Joint boot
Dan 908,
Thank you for your reply. In answer to your question, I do not have the book or CD for this car. Have never done anything on this car other than wash it weekly. We had the book for the Model 80 Audi we sold and gave the guy the Bentley book with the car.
Are there any special tools required for this job that are "dealer only"? What about torque values for the various fasteners that will be removed?
Kurt
Thank you for your reply. In answer to your question, I do not have the book or CD for this car. Have never done anything on this car other than wash it weekly. We had the book for the Model 80 Audi we sold and gave the guy the Bentley book with the car.
Are there any special tools required for this job that are "dealer only"? What about torque values for the various fasteners that will be removed?
Kurt
#7
06-04-2006, 05:39 PM
RE: A 6 Front CV Joint boot
a quicky, undo the center hub bolt then the tie rod/track rod end, unclip all items connected to suspension arm and the lower bolts holding the suspension to the shocker, rotate the rotor so you can pull the drive shaft out, cut the old C/V boot off and gently tap the C/V joint off the drive shaft, fit the new boot and replace in the reverse order, if you don't under stand that type C/V boot replacement in Google images
#8
06-04-2006, 05:45 PM
RE: A 6 Front CV Joint boot
hehehe good lad I was taking the Micky but just pointing out you don't need to change them allforgive me if I upset you
forgive me if I upset you
ORIGINAL: dan908
Whatever. Well I mean now just replace the side that was not done that is bad, but the first time (a year ago) he should have had both the front axles done. I mean come on it is pretty much the same price for one or both and now a year later he has the other side blown. You can't say that CV boots are independent. If there is one bad one on the front, replace the whole front. If there is one bad one on the rear (rare, never happens) replace the whole rear.
I am not saying replace the whole car's boots, and I am not saying replace the one done a year ago. But a year ago you should have done both (and maybe some newbie who finds this years from now will take this as a learning lesson).
Anyway, replacing the inners with the outers is an extra 15 bucks for the kit and takes an extra 45 seconds, I know the inners tear a lot less but 45 seconds and 15 bucks, have you ever taken off the axles, I only want to do it once in my cars life.
And no I am not drinking, my spelling is way to good for that.
Whatever. Well I mean now just replace the side that was not done that is bad, but the first time (a year ago) he should have had both the front axles done. I mean come on it is pretty much the same price for one or both and now a year later he has the other side blown. You can't say that CV boots are independent. If there is one bad one on the front, replace the whole front. If there is one bad one on the rear (rare, never happens) replace the whole rear.
I am not saying replace the whole car's boots, and I am not saying replace the one done a year ago. But a year ago you should have done both (and maybe some newbie who finds this years from now will take this as a learning lesson).
Anyway, replacing the inners with the outers is an extra 15 bucks for the kit and takes an extra 45 seconds, I know the inners tear a lot less but 45 seconds and 15 bucks, have you ever taken off the axles, I only want to do it once in my cars life.
And no I am not drinking, my spelling is way to good for that.
#9
06-05-2006, 01:09 AM
RE: A 6 Front CV Joint boot
Haynes makes a manual for the older 1996-98 A4 that I use for my A6, pretty much the same crap. Of course the newer that the car gets the more it changes. 2000 was the A6 body change so it might not be as similar as it is for my 97.
Sorry Avant80, I am not getting mad at you, I am just trying to clarify what I said. Not the whole car, just the front, and since he already did half, just the bad side. But I am one to do preventative maintenance so I am still gonna push replacing the inner boots especially since if he tears one down the road he has to cut off the newly replaced outer to get at the inner (cause the bolting plate does not allow you to access the inner from that end).
Don't forget to have the alignment done when you get it all back together.
And really like I said, the manual suggested pulling all that crap, but most of it was not coming off, then next thing I knew (trying to get the lower suspension stuff off) the axle was in my hands, so on an A6, it will come out with out pulling most of the crap. just turn the wheel all the way to steering stop and you will get it out (not even prying.) The only thing I pulled was the stabilizer bar.
Sorry Avant80, I am not getting mad at you, I am just trying to clarify what I said. Not the whole car, just the front, and since he already did half, just the bad side. But I am one to do preventative maintenance so I am still gonna push replacing the inner boots especially since if he tears one down the road he has to cut off the newly replaced outer to get at the inner (cause the bolting plate does not allow you to access the inner from that end).
Don't forget to have the alignment done when you get it all back together.
And really like I said, the manual suggested pulling all that crap, but most of it was not coming off, then next thing I knew (trying to get the lower suspension stuff off) the axle was in my hands, so on an A6, it will come out with out pulling most of the crap. just turn the wheel all the way to steering stop and you will get it out (not even prying.) The only thing I pulled was the stabilizer bar.
#10
06-05-2006, 01:15 AM
RE: A 6 Front CV Joint boot
Oh yeah tools, there is a tool to tighten the boot clamps that looks like a set of dykes (wire cutters) turned upwards, anyway, hardware stores sell dykes with the blades turned upwards so I just used that. You'll need a rubber mallet.
I don't know on torque values, I don't even own a torque wrench. If you take all that suspension stuff off, just get it back tight, you'll see all those bolts and nuts are tight.
I don't know on torque values, I don't even own a torque wrench. If you take all that suspension stuff off, just get it back tight, you'll see all those bolts and nuts are tight.