Hi folks,

I just got offered the right amount of cash for my mustang so it will be sold tommorow...
Now for the replacement.
I'm looking at a wagon, there is a couple of subaru's in the frame and a 98 A5 avant.
I'm drawn towards the Audi as it has the bonus of the fold away rear facing 3rd row and a bit more space than the subaru's for bikes in the back.

What are the major issues with this era engine/trans?
I'm not sure untill I go check it out if it is the 12v or 30v, it's registered 98, but I'm guessing it will be the 97 engine (12v).

With 135K on the clock is it on it's last legs already?

my buddy is driving round in his 525 estate with 225K on the clock, he'll laugh his *** off if I buy an Audi wagon and it breaks all the time with 90k less than his beemer.
Not to mention I'll be stuck, this will be my daily 20 mile each way commute vehicle.

Thanks in advance for any info or advice.

 

I have a 97 A6 Avant C4 body with over 245,000 miles on it. I drive 100 miles a day for work and the only time it let me down completely was when it blew the o-ring seal behind the oil cooler.

My daughter crashed it on a rainy night and I had to replace the radiator and re-adjust the grill but that was not the cars fault. I make shure the TB gets done every 100K, change the oil and filter every 6-8K, and do the brakes when they are needed. It has it's little problems such as the EGR valve throws a code every few weeks (I just reset it)but I can't complain.

The answer to your question is that I am having good luck with my older Audi but I don't know about you. How much can you do yourself? How **** are you about little things? How much do they want for it? How do you drive? What do you expect from a vehicle beyond normal transportation? How much ar eyou willing to put up with so you can have fun with an Audi?

If you are really concerned about what your beemer buddy thinks you probably want a high performance roller skate.

 

I'm fairly good with a wrench, I do my own servicing and brakes, wheel bearings, bushees etc. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty if the issue is not too complicated.

Thanks for your insight, nice to know they can be major issue free.

Any specifics to look for?

The car is at a dealer, but is up for the edmunds private sale price of 3500.
After tax and the other stuff, I'm hoping to pay around 3700 total.
How does that seem?

 

Semi reasonable price as long as the timing belt, WP etc. was done recently and there is nothing obvious wrong. Check the brake hoses and make sure all the electrical stuff works. Get a minumum of 30 days warantee because you'll find something wrong.

 

It's much better than the explorers and other suv's I've been looking at.

says tthe water pump and timing was done and the brake lines look new.
Only thing that doesn't work is the drivers side rear window on the drivers door switch or the rear switch.
Easy fix?

 

Switch replacement is easy -- sometimes you can take it apart and fix it but I always get a replacement - used- and play with the old one

 

Well it drives like a dream, at highway speed it's as quiet and smooth as my wife's 2009 dodge journey.
It's going to need the rotors skimming & will replace the pads.
elec window needs fixing and some of the paint dings.

The power of a same day cash deal lured him into 2800.
The 90 mile drive home just went effortlessly.
This beast is 2 years older than my mustang, but seems 5 newer in design and the drive.

Now the questions start...
Regular, mid or premium gas?
What oil do you guys recommend?
Don't have service info, so do I have the thans flushed, or leave it alone?

 

I use Shell regular gas
Any old name brand oil will do
I'd leave the trans alone

Otherswill say differently, but you can't argue with 245K on this Audi and over 350K on my former 200QTwith no turbo problems ever!

If you do the trans make sure the guy knows what he is doing Audis have a very special procedure that requires it to be a certain temp when the level is checked. 99.56% of the uneducated guys screw it up.

 

Will leave the trans alone I think then.

I have a 'ln 2' code in the trip meter space, guy at AAP said it was prob the change oil warning, is this right?
He plugged in his OBD2 reader and there is no codes lit.

 

Oh, the other obvious issue is that the radio doesn't come on.
Is there a specific fuse for it?
The cd changer in the back loads and ejects the cartrige, so that has power.