I HAD A SERIOUS OIL LEAK THIS MORNING ESPECIALLY IN THE FRONT ENGINE. IT IS WINTER TIME AND iI WONDER WHAT CAN'T THE PROBLEM BE. I AM TIRED OF LEAKING PROBLEM WITH A6 QUATTRO MODEL. i RECENTLY FIXED THE CAMSHAFTSEAL AND GASKET BECAUSE THE GUY WHO DID THE VCG FORGOT TO PUT BACK THE SEAL AND USED A GLUE NOT REQUIRED. THIS IS WHAT GOT FROM THE MECHANIC WHO FIXED MY CAR

THE SAME FIRST MECHANIC WHO MESSED UP THE WORK TOLD ME THAT THE FRONT LEAK I AM HAVING IS THE CAMSHAFT ADJUSTER/TENSIONER THAT LEAK BECAUSE IT IS A HYDROLIC PIECE AND IT ADJUSTS THE OIL PRESSURE IN THE ENGINE. THE LAST MECHANIC TOLD ME THE ADJUSTER ARE IN THE BACK OF THE ENGINE NOT IN THE FONT WHICH I DO BELIEVE IT BECAUSE OIL LEAK IS MOSLY RELATED TO RUBBER FAILUERE

ACCORDING TO HIM IF IT IS THE TENSIONER, THE ENGINE WOULD SOUNDS LIKE DIESEL ENGINE. NOW THEFRONT LEAK IS SERIOUS AND I HAVE A FUME COMING IN THEBACK OF THE ENGINE, PASSENGER SIDE. I WONDER WHAT COULD YOUR ADVICES BE.

SINCE I HAD THE CAR, THE OIL LEAK HAS ALWAYS BE MY PROBLEM. I RECENTLY DID THE VGC BUT THE MECHANIC GUY TOLD ME I MAY HAVE TO REDO IT. BUT I MOST WORRY ABOUT THE FRONT ENGINE LEAK NOW, WHAT MAY IT BE? IS IT WORTH IT TO KEEP THE CAR?

 

The leaks you describe are very common for most C5 A6 models and is something all owners will have to deal with sooner or later. My initial leak was fairly minor but I like you got fed up with the scent of burning oil and smoke rising up from the hot exhaust.

To fix my leaks, when I did my TB service (did work myself!), I changed both cam caps, all cam seals, both half moon seals, both of my tensioner gaskets and installed new VC gaskets...using RTV where and as prescribed by my Bentley manual. It can sometimes be hard to tell which seals or gaskets are the exact source of a leak....especially in the tight A6 engine bays, so I just decided to go all in and change all seals and gaskets. Keep in mind that the rubber seals and gaskets will eventually fail because of shrinkage and the fact that they just don't seal as well once they've gone through a few thousand heating and cooling cycles. I can say that since changing mine out, I no longer have any leaks, foul burning oil scent and keep a dry garage floor.

I don't know what type of mechanic (pro or shadetree) you have working on your car but If you're not able to maintain or repair it yourself you may want to either part with it or find a knowledgable and capable mechanic.

 

NO NEED TO YELL! BUT ILL TRY MY BEST TO EXPLAIN WHAT I CAN.

WHEN THE VALVE COVER GASKETS LEAKS, IT IS NECESSARY TO CHANGE THE CAM ADJUSTER SEALS AKA CAM CHAIN TENSIONERS. THERE ARE ADJUSTERS IN THE BACK AND FRONT. TO REACH SOME OF THEM THE TIMING BELT NEEDS TO COME OFF.

LET ME ALSO SAY THIS. DRIVING THE CAR WITH AN OIL LEAK IS NO PROBLEM. I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY YOU SELL YOUR CAR JUST BECAUSE IT HAS AN OIL LEAK. JUST MAKE SURE THE OIL IS NOT LOW. YOU WILL GET USED TO THE SMELL. SELLING THE CAR AND BUYING A NEW ONE JUST FOR THE PURPOSE OF THE OIL LEAK IS TAKING A HUGE LOSS.

YOU CAN EITHER DO THE FOLLOWING:

1. LEAVE CAR AS-IS. GET USED TO THE OIL SMELL AND BE ON TOP OF YOUR OIL LEVEL.

2. GET THE LEAKS FIXED. THIS TIME TAKE IT TO A EUROPEAN SHOP SHO KNOWS THE VAG MOTORS. THE VALVE COVER GASKETS, CAM ADJUSTER SEALS, CAM PLUGS THE WHOLE NINE YARDS TO STOP THE LEAK SHOULD COST AROUND 800 AT A EURO SHOP. 1200 IF YOU DECIDE TO CHANGE THE TIMING BELT ALONG WITH IT.

my advice is to just drive it as is. you are not adding any problems to the car with the oil leaks. even if you get the leaks completely fixed, it will be back within 50k or so.

 

Yup. Nothing out of the ordinary for an A6.

I have the same issue with mine. I have about 127,000 on the clock. I bought the kit to do all of the gaskets, but am saving it for a rainy day. In the mean time I just check my oil level about once a week or so to make sure it's within the crosshatching of the dip stick.

No need to sell the car... yet.

 

Hey,

I am thinking about the same. I was wondering what are the seals and gasket you bought.
the same ida came to me. That may be the best option is to keep the car and buy the kit of gasket. Then one day sit down and do it myself.

But my point is what tools exactly you are buying? expecially when it comes to cam tensione seal. that one seems to be a PITA. I don't hav money to throw on the car like that. Any 500 to 1200 dollars. That is a lot.

If you can give me your trick and what you plan to do, it will be helpful.

I wa thinking that may be if you live close to me, we could decide to work on both your car ad my car together.

 

The real problem is that when the oil leak become serious, the car start throwing all kind of engine light out , expecially engine light related to catalytic converter. I have no hopoe with that car. t just a lost.

I think I got your advices. know what I am going to do. Anyway, am already loosing on the car because if I sell it, the price would just cover what owe to the bank. I am going to keep the oil level medium and drive it lesser.
I hope one day i will be able to sit down myself and solve the issue. i am jsut tired of not enjoying my car. They are realy mice car but they are **** to maintain.

I know the mechanic will throw me off when it will give me the feedback on this car today. he already asked me to come and pick upo my cr. Probable he wa trying to let me know that the work is a big load to put money down for it. will see what he has to say and let you know.\\

 

Hey,

I am thinking about the same. I was wondering what are the seals and gasket you bought.
the same ida came to me. That may be the best option is to keep the car and buy the kit of gasket. Then one day sit down and do it myself.

But my point is what tools exactly you are buying? expecially when it comes to cam tensione seal. that one seems to be a PITA. I don't hav money to throw on the car like that. Any 500 to 1200 dollars. That is a lot.

If you can give me your trick and what you plan to do, it will be helpful.

I wa thinking that may be if you live close to me, we could decide to work on both your car ad my car together.

 

I was just wondering how long did it take you to do the whole job? did you sacrifice a week end over it? What relaible material did you ise. I was thinking of sitting for a month to rbuild my whole engine whether I am a mechanic or not. It is just a matter of time to create and money to put down in buying the right part.

I am so tired of worrying about this car like it is a girl.

 

I ordered the kit through Blauparts. There is a good write up with it, along with a somewhat helpful video that is on their website as well to describe the process.

I would caution you about doing this on your own if you are just starting to get your hands dirty with grease. This job requires you to tear apart the entire front of the car and take off the timing belt as well as both cams in order to do it right. I have read ways of cheating so you don't have to take off the timing belt, but whether or not it's worth it... That's up to you.

If you're willing to do the job, I'm sure we'd be willing to offer you assistance and point you in the right direction, but keep in mind this job will be somewhat challenging if it's your first car repair. I'm around Allentown, PA, btw. I doubt we live close.

 

Thank you friend. Yes, I really want to do it by my own. I checked the website BLAUPART. I saw the kit. I think the best kit is the advance kit for $124.... But my question is do you have the list of tool I will need because I don't want to be stuck once I start opening the engine. I was trying to change my spindle one day and I could not unscrew the bolt because of the rust and I did not have the air compressor screw driver. It is much more easier than trying to do it manually.

The other question is that I have an engine light coming from the cam. In fact the mechanic who screw up my car opened the front of my car before saying that he is looking for the oil leak than touched my timing belt or somewhat. So the engine light say A camshaft position (bank 1) timing over advanced". I was wondering if it is related to the position of the belt itself or should I adjust the sensor position. i want to fix that once I open that front too. How would I fix it?

Thank