Hi guys. New to the forum. picked up my A6 2 months ago. Been enjoying the hell out of it. Heres my prob. The CEL light came on. Took it to Schucks auto. They put it on a diag. The results were codes 118 (high temp input) 1411 and 1423 dealer specific. when I called the dealer they said it was the secondary air input sensor. What is that? And how can it be fixed. #2 Im not running hot so why is it puling a high temp input code. Any info would be very helpful. Thanks for the input.

 

sound like the secondary air pump may have failed. Secondary air pump is used to pump air through cats and help to speed up time required before cats are able to do an adequate job. I'm not 100% but the other code may be related to your exhaust gas temps. Check to ensure the air pump is working, start there and keep us informed

 

Thanks for the reply. I guess a manual is in my near future. Also, can anyone tell me the stock boost pressure is and what is the safest amount of boost I can run. I am somewhat familiar with boosting. I have a 1991 Eagle talon TSi running about 18 psi on a t3/t4 hybrid. I want to find out if the ko3 turbos are maxed out for boost. And if not what can I safely boost the pressure to assuming that I gave already put on a downpipe and have it chipped and such. Im talking with a mbc. Can I stick in an aftermarket hp fuel pump like a walbro 255lph or something similar and run larger diameter hoses and turn up the juice? or do I need to do some other mods before. Thanks for the replies and i'll keep posting the progres on the cel codes and what i find

 

stock boost is 8-9psi, stage 1 chip boosts at about 13-14psi (safe level for K03 turbos). I have run my boost as high as 24 psi with MBC and K04 turbos. I think that with K03's you should stick near the 13-14psi. You can put in a walbro 255, bigger injectors, change the MAF sensor and housing, increase the overall size of the intake air path. All these things will net you HP, but at the cost of possibly blowing the turbos. The increased fuel delivery is really meant to aid bigger turbos. That being said, there are plenty of guys running real fast stage 2++ cars with K03's.

 

Before you go replacing sensors or the SAP check the vacuum lines. 75% of the trouble with this is cracked -leaking hoses.

 

Nothing77, what other upgrades did you install to support the K04s? I have seen everything from larger fuel pumps and intakes to replacing the entire exhaust. I know it's not cheap, but I wonder what is necessary for good performance and what is just "nice to have" or returns incremental performance gains.

Go Red Wings!

 

P14411 and 1423 are low air injection -- do the vacuum line thing first

P0118 could be a bad temp sensor - and might mess up drive-ability or fuel milage.

clear the codes and see what returns.

 

ppgoal
current mods are
-RS4 K04's
-RS4 upper and lower turbo piping
-IPP intercoolers
-bosch racing 5 bar FPR
-piggies
-custom 2.5"catback
-darintake
-turbosmart MBC in parallel with N75
-GIAC 1.3 bar X chip
-GIAC TIP chip


Complete fueling still needs to be finished, but I have to wait till I have a tranny that can handle the extra torque

 

Ive cleared thr codes once already. takes about 3-4 days for it to start pulling the codes. But I will check the vacuum hoses first. As far as running a bigger fuel pump, I know that if I put one in and go with bigger injectors, wouldnt I need a piggy back system to not blow the turbos. Im not sure hom the ecu on the audis work but i would think that it would make it run rich without the piggy back system? just a thought of mine. Anymore info would be helpful. Thanks again

 

nothing77. What are piggies? and you also said that your running a mbc in parallel with n75. What does that mean.