So recently I keep on getting a check engine light and when i Vag Com'd it i got this:

Thursday, 23 July 2009, 00:06:49

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S



Control Module Part Number: 8E0 909 559 D

Component and/or Version: 3.0L V6/5V G 0004

Software Coding: 0016752

Work Shop Code: WSC 02335

2 Faults Found:

17930 - Camshaft Adjustment: Bank 2: Malfunction

P1522 - 008 - Implausible Signal

16409 - Bank 2: Camshaft B (Exhaust): Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)

P0025 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded

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So can anyone tell me what I need to do or change?? thx plz and thx..

 

i cant help you but i feel your pain. my check engine light has been on forever. i keep taking it to the same shop and its been there 5 times already. the first time it was the computer then they also took my exhaust apart for no reason. it came back on so i took it for them to tighten the exhaust and it turned off. but came back on again. then i left it there and they said it was something else. the light turned off and came back on again. i took it back so they can tighten my exhaust and it turned off but came back on again. now it just came out last week and its back on again. they changed something else and i had them check the exhaust cuz they messed it up now theyre saying they dont do exhaust there. wtf...

 

It means the timing is off. You need to retime your engine with the correct tools. The ecm can not tune in your timming because it is way to far out.

Has this car ran correctly since you did the valves?

Did you take your mechanics advice and not do the belt and tensioner?

If it has been running OK you should check the belt and tensioner it could be slipping or the cam bolts could be loose.

If it hasn't you should get it to a mechanic who has the timing tools and the knowledge to retime it before you bend another bank of valves. Or buy a set from ebay and do it yourself. They look like C clamps.

OH.......and ........I told you so!

 

Engine actually runs fine, except the check engine light is on.. What do you mean it wasn't timed correctly if car runs fine?

 

A car can "run" fine but not be timed right. If your car was running correctly, would the check engine light be on?

 

Agree.. the timing on your bank 2 cams is off.

 

Don't hesitate unless you have lots of money to spend on you vehicle -- I'll bet the check engine light is trying to tell you that if you don't straighten out the timing issue your going to bend some more valves.

 

Your timing is off slightly. there are two C clamp looking alignment tools that hold the cams in time on both banks.
You need to install them then turn the crank to "0" then install the belt.

You need to be sure that the belt is new the tensioner is new and the rollers are new. The reason I say that is because the job is such a PITA who wants to second guess parts that can wipe out your heads. You do not need the crank locking pin unless you are removing the crank pulley to change the crank seal while your in there. just the clamps and a small pin for the tensioner.

If your tensioner is bad it could be allowing the belt to loosen and slip on the cam pullies. Also the cam bolts get torqued to 73 foot lbs ( feels like you might snap them it's so tight ) If they are loose that could also lead to slipping.

I bought my tools on line on ebay. I wouldn't do the job without them it would take too long to figure out an alternate method. However if you are purchasing a T-Belt kit from blauparts.com they will also rent them to you for ~50 bucks plus deposit.

Engines can run slightly off time but it will lead to external problems. i.e. Piston wear, catalytic converter failure not to mention a rough idle. Either the car will learch off the line and feel like it is always wanting to go or could have no power when you nail it.

The ecm will attempt to adjust the timing for emission reasons but will be unable and illuminate the CEL.

Beware something caused that engine to loose time and bend your valves before you bought it. No way to know what that was since you got it on Ebay and the original owner is long gone. You really should do the t-belt kit with the water pump if you haven't already. It was most likely a t-belt failure due to old age or the tensioner or a roller failed and broke the belt. If those items had been good the valves would not be able to meet your pistons. The only other way you could be off time is if the mechanic your using did not time it correctly. That would be hard to imagine after he pulled the head and replaced your valves then he timed it wrong but anything is possible.

 

There are a lot of people who don't use the correct alignment tools and instructions, then quickly sell the car when they can't get it to work properly.
By instructions, I mean the Audi shop manual or equivalent.

 

my engine light has been on for a while also ...my macanic said it was from driving low on gas,.. the fumes turn on the sensor for the engine light.