I have a coolant leak in my 2000 A6 2.7T and I was wondering if anyone has had the same problem or knows how much it would be to fix. I am having the timing belt changed this weekend and I'm hoping these are the only problems in my near future. Is there anything else I should be worried about?

 

Had same problem,

It was a timing problem that made the water pump leak.

ABSOLUTLY fix this problem at the time of having your timing belt replaced.

Or you'll end up paying double.....

-C

 

Yes - there is an auxiliary coolant pump towards the rear of the engine. Mine was leaking and made quite a mess on the bell housing area. Hopefully you fix the problem with the timing belt work - make sure you put in a good steel impeller water pump and replace all the tensioners, thermostat, serpentine belt.

 

i just had mine in to get a hose around the engine replaced and the leak is gone so maybe it is just that easy

 

I have a 2000 2.7 and I had to have that Auxillary Water Pump replace at about 75,000 miles. The dealership did it for about $900. I also had a coolant leak to the heads. It was $32 for the parts and $1000 for the labor. Let's see, things to look for.

Timing Belt Etc $1425
Torque convertor $2550
Auxillary water pump $900
Master window switch $170
Overflow reservoir $90
Transmission filter, fluid, gaskets $300
Transmission Cooler lines $130
Coolant lines to the engine $1032
Electronic Control Module $800
CV Boot $215
Coolant Flush $110
Brake Fluid Flush$100
Full Brake Job $950
Control Arm $200
Tie Rod $150
Engine flush $161
I'm sure there were a couple more things I forgot. I have reciepts for it all somewhere. Good Luck

 

I have 2000 2.7t Quattro. I just recently found out I have a auxiliary coolant promblem leak. I just got the timing belt changed on the car. I found the part for about 100 dollars online and I had 2 places quote me on 125 and 270 for the labor. I dont know about 900 dollars. Is it possible for the leak to get to the catalytic converter and make check engine light go off for the cats ? Is it normal to have this kind of promblems right after getting the car timing belt changed. I love the car and everything but promblems on this car after 80 000 miles are horrible

 

I started having problems at about 75K. Audi of Tulsa charged me $115 for the pump and 8 hours of labor at $95 an hour, plus I had to buy some clamps and coolant that were not covered by the warranty.

 

I'm in the process of replacing my auxiliary coolant pump now. The pump is electric and sits longitudinally, rightdown on the top of the block, in the V between the cylinder heads,toward the rear of the engine. To get to it, you have to remove the engine covers, take off the induction pipes, separate about 15 hoses and 12 electrical connectors, remove about 18 hex-head bolts and takethe fuel rail and intake manifold out as a unit, and there it is!! It is a part made by Bosch, with the electrical connection coming in from the rear, about a 6" hose running from the rear metal cooling line to the side nipple and another similar hose running from the front nipple to a metal front coolant line. Mine leaked coolant because the plastic front of the pump where the hoses attach cracked and came apart from the pump body. Has anyone else had this problem? Anybody tried to get Audi/Bosch to offer a free replacement? I notice that the new pump has a different color plastic front, and wonder if the older ones were trouble prone? I'm doing the work myself. New pump was $180 from the dealer, but the same pump is available from Internet sources for just a little over $100. You also will need to find some very tiny hose clamps for some of the braided vacuum lines, as it is almost impossible to unclamp the OEM ones without destroying them. . . oddly enough, I went to Audi, Volkswagen, Mercedes, and Porsche dealers looking for replacement hose clamps, and none of dealerships stock them. BTW, if you do this yourself, you probably will want to replace the metal gaskets between the heads and the intake manifold. Taking them off is no problem (just a tight fit), but you will want to get four 1"- long M6 studs to screw looselyinto the head to hold the new gaskets in place temporarily so that all the bolt holes stay aligned when you reassemble the fuel rail/intake manifold unit. I also replaced both hoses mentioned above attaching to the pump, and you will want to get some of the (very expensive!!) braided vacuum line from a dealer, since I found several places where mine were badly frayed down under the fuel rail. I'm new to this forum, so I hope that what I have written is helpful. I also have a collage picture showing the various stages of the repair, but it is too large to post here. If you email me I will send it to you. tj00093@aol.com