1998 A6 Quattro 30v, 175k

My CV boot it torn on the driver's side. I think I want to just replace the entire axle.

Do I need to change both axles or can I just replace the driver's side without issues?

Is there a better brand of CV axle and there is a brand to avoid?

Thanks

 

One side is fine. No comment on the brand...

 

Just replace the whole thing. It's a lot easier in these cars than in most. Just make sure you buy a 17mm allen. I got mine in a pack with 2 other large sizes for $12 at Autozone.

Here's a DIY on it.

DIY: front CV axle replacement

 

That DIY leaves a little bit out. I just replaced my driver's side axle last night with a new Cardone Select unit from Rockauto for $60 including shipping. If you don't care about cost, Raxles are $199.99 and are the best you can get. Phone order only.

My suggestion would be to remove the heat shield above the inner joint to give yourself maximum room to manuver the driveshaft around. I also replaced the inner bolts with allen head ones instead of the triple square because they are much easier to work with and I already had a set of long reach ball head allen sockets. Those socktes were a must to get to the three bolts on the heat shield, plus two 6" extensions.

I also popped the bolt on the lower rear control arm at the subframe, otherwise there was not enough room to pull the outside joint out of the wheel hub. It was still a struggle. The highway vibrations are almost gone now, I just need to do the passenger side.

 

I would like to keep the cost down. That seems like you got you drivers side for a good price.

Did you have to remove the notorious pinch bolt? I would prefer to not have to do that and I see some write-ups that say you don't need to remove the pinch bolt.

 

No, I left the pinch bolt alone because I was following the same write up that I just commented on. When I went to take the joint out of the hub, I didn't even have close to enough room to get it out. Thats when I pulled the control arm bolt since when I replace just the outer boot that was the procedure I used to free the joint from the hub.

I removed the 6 bolts on the inner joint first and then tried to get the outer joint out of the hub. When I go to do the passenger side shaft, I will remove the joint from the hub first by pulling the rear control arm and then unbolt the inner joint and remove the unit. I know it will be easiest that way now.

 

Thanks for the tips. I think that this will be my next car repair.
Is it only one bolt to remove the lower control arms? I have nerve worked much with the control arms before.

 

Yes, it is just the bolt and nut that goes through the bushing end of the arm. You may need to loosen the vertical bolt that goes into the subframe and pry down in order to get the clearance to remove the control arm bolt. I didn't and buggered up the threads enough that I need to buy a new bolt and nut from the dealer. Live and learn.

 

Good advice, I wouldn't want to have to go to the dealer.

 

what year is you car that you replaced the axle on? Is it a c5 or c6 chassis?