Hello,

I am attempting to replace the CV boot on my 01 A6.

I am being told I need to let the stealership do it, and that I need an impact gun along with other tools to do it myself.

Can anyone confirm that its extremely hard to do by yourself, or is it not that bad?

 

I can do it by myself with no airtools in about two hours per side. So even if it took you a day per side your saving money.

You really can't use air tools they wont be able to break the axle bolt loose. Unless your using BIG guns.
the only thing I used air tools for was to push the axle out of the CV joint. You can find another way to do that.

You will need a good breaker bar, and possible a cast iron pipe to slip over it in order to crack the bolt loose. You will also need a torque wrench to tighten it correctly.

If you go to a mechanic, go to an indepentdant shop. The dealer is just going to sell you a complete axle, rotors, brakes, control arms, any other related part you don't need and when your paying the bill the salesman will be trying to interest you in a new A4 cabriolet.

 

HAHA. true story.

So am I able to do this myself? Right now, I am away at school, and all I have is a small socket set, wrench set, and skrewdriver sets.

Can you tell me what other parts I need (like what size torque wrench).

My biggest question, is what am I doing to take the CV joint off the splined tip, I have heard people using a two arm puller. Where can i find something to pull that bad boy off?

 

In that case You should go to an independant dealer. A VW mechanic would be great otherwise anyone can do it.

It would be cheaper than buying the tools.

Meanwhile you can concentrate on your grades!

Priorities, priorities...

 

I am gettin straight 4.0's... and I want to expand my tool collection (have more at home, but didnt bring them w/ me.)

Plus, i have the part already, and the shop wants $320...

so. start listing parts =)

 

* Torque wrench - you need one from 10 to 500 ft lb. I doubt there's anything on the Audi with a torque need greater than that.
* You'll need a big socket for your axle bolt, or a socket bit, depending on what type of bolts you have on your car.
The hex head type bolts require a 27 mm socket. The recessed Allen head bolts require a 22 mm I believe. I may be wrong regarding the latter.
* A breaker bar would be handy.

 

The axle bolt Allen head may be 17mm.
You also need to be sure that you have a complete CV boot kit which includes a new wire circlip. The circlip is what holds the outer CV joint to the axle. If you have a manual transmission and you are removing the whole axle from the car you may need a inner CV joint flange gasket and extra grease.
You will need lots of paper towels, because of the dirty grease.
The inner CV joint is usually bolted to the transmission axle flange with 10mm tripple square bolts, so you may need socket extentions.
You may need a large vise and wood padding if you work with the axle off of the car.
You need to search the forums for instructions for a 2001 A6 with the same engine and transmission.
Do you have a copy of the BentleyPublishers.com Audi shop manual DVD?
Since you are off at school, you may want to find a local friend with a garage and tools.

 

I recon now you're right, HCW. That was the reason I looked to buy a 17 mm Allen socket bit in the first place - which I never used, btw...

 

You need a jack and jacks stands, a 17 mm allen wrench (not the bit as it will break), a pipe to fit over the allen wrench, 13, 16, 18 and 21 mm sockets and wrenches, 17 mm socket for the wheel bolts and the 10 mm triple square sockets for the axle bolts and about 2 feet of extensions. Oh, and a flat blade screwdriver. And a BFH. And a Clecko clamp crimper. And a small allen wrench for the wheel sensor.

Jack up your car and put it on jack stands.
Remove the front wheel.
Put a couple of the wheel bolts back in place to hold the rotor to the hub.
Put a screwdriver in a slot in the rotor and rotate it up to the caliper to keep the hob from rotating.
Use the 17 mm allen wrench and the pipe and loosen the axle bolt. Tap the bolt to loosen the axle from the hub. Remove the bolt. reinstall the bolt about three turns then tap the axle out as far as it will go. Remove the axle bolt.
Remove the wheel sensor.
Remove the brake caliper and wire it to the spring.
Remove the sway bar end link.
Remove the strut to contol arm bolt.
Remove the bolts holding the two lower control arms to the frame.
Remove the outer tie rod pinch bolt and top bolt. Reinstall the top bolt about three turns then tap the tie rod end out as far as it will go. Remove the top bolt then finish tapping the tie rod end out.
Remove the bolts holding the axle to the transmission.
Pull out on the knuckle to free the outer CV joint from the hub then remove the axle.
There are multiple ways of seperating the CV joint from the axle. Here is a simple method:
- clamp a block of wood to the axle with one end of the wood block up against the ridge in the middle of the axle. Take another block of wood and your BFH and whack the CV joint a good one while holding the axle and first block of wood with your foot. The CV should pop right off. I could never get one off with a puller, but the brace and whack method has worked for me everytime!
Clean up everything really well and install the new boot onto the axle. Reinstall the CV joint by placing axle vertical on the floor so the inner CV is on the floor, place the CV joint in position, then give the CV joint a good whack with your BFH through a block of wood.
Put all the grease into the boot then route it up onto the CV joint. Install the new clamp using your new Clecko clamp tool.
Reinstall the axle to the transmission then insert the CV joint into the hub. Install the new bolt about three turns to hold the axle in place.
Position the two lower control arms in place, including under the strut (the front one can be tricky!). Install bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN.
Reinstall sway bar link but DO NOT TIGHTEN.
Reinstall tie rod end. Go ahead and tighten.
Reinstall rotor, caliper and sensor. Install the couple of bolts to hold the rotor in place and put the screwdriver back in on the opposite side of the caliper.
Tighten the axle bolt as tight as you can with a two foot extension bar.
Reinstall the wheel.
Lower the car. Now, crawl under it and tighten the lower control arm and sway bar end link bolts.
Have a beer or six.

Good luck,

Bob

 

I only removed the top two control arms and pushed the housing to the side. The CV will just make it out.

Your only doing the outers correct.

You don't need the triple squares if your just doing the outer joints.

Tools; go to autozone, harbor freight, northern tool

17mm driver, comes in a set of 3
set metric sockets
set metric wrenches
set metric Allen drivers, the smaller ones
set of torx drivers
ratchets for those drivers
breaker bar, a big one not the little 1' long POS that comes with the kits.
2 jack stands and a jack.
pair of dikes, cutting pliers.
screw driver.
crimping tool for CV boot clamps
Sea foam and a parts brush to clean grease from the CV joints.
Liquid wrench
2 cans Brake cleaner
Rubber examination gloves
a 4' long iron pipe to fit over the breaker bar - home depot
small 1-2" putty knife for spreading the grease.
a bucket, like big enough to soak your feet in.
Hand cleaner
A **** load of rags- I mean a **** load


Old clothing is a must, or the shirt Auntie Sue made for your last birthday.

With the car on the ground remove the center cap from your rims.
take the breaker with the 17mm driver (no extension) you may want to take some tape and wrap the bar with rags in case you accidentally hit the fender.- scratches are inexcusable! Remember lefty loosey righty tighty- turn them counter clock wise. note that bolt is not reusable because it is designed to stretch when tightened. If you reuse it it will snap in 1/2.

Now with them loose, not removed just free. Jack up the car and install the jack stands, I put them under the sub frame. leave the jack under there too.

remove the wheel, brake caliper, rotor, wheel sensor and rear dust plate. Tuck the sensor out of the way and have a borrowed but not stolen milk crate to rest the caliper on. don't let it dangle.
note when reinstalling clean the sensor, and be sure to bend the dust plate away from the rotor it can easily be bent and rub the rotor.

remove the 17mm center bolt

completely remove the bolt from the housing holding the two upper control arms in. The control arms are grooved so the bolt needs to come completely out. Use liquid wrench top lube it and spin it as you try to get it out. once you have it out far enough place a smaller wrench under the head to give you a handle to push with while you spin the bolt.

The housing has a groove, your not supposed to pry open.
I wedged a small screw driver in there anyway because they said I couldn't and they will pop right out. Just a little it only takes a wee little bit to loosen the grip of the housing and free the ball joints don't want to crack the housing.

Do not remove the tie rod end! or you will need an alignment!!!

Now pull the housing toward you, as to force it to steer toward the side your working on. Pull the axle from the hub. It will just clear, be patient and push the housing as far as you can. There is a sweet spot.

Once it is out, remove the bands from the boot. Pry open the ear, don't cut them- save them for now.

At this point I shoved a copper punch in the axle hole and drove the old 17mm bolt back into the axle forcing the CV joint off the axle. I used air. So try hitting it from the back with the wood block I guess. You need to separate the CV joint from the axle. it is only held on by the friction a metal cir-clip so a good solid whack will be needed.

Once the CV is off place that mess in the bucket and pour some sea foam on it.

Meanwhile back at the axle you have a cir-clip, a plastic spacer and a metal spacer. clean the axle with a rag and note how they are installed. The metal spacer goes on first with the flair facing out toward the wheel followed by the spacer and the cir-clip just snaps on. If your kit cam with new ones replace them if not just clean them up and leave them on.

Back to the mess. Remove the boot from the CV if you haven't already.

Now I disassembled my CV joints but they are sort of a Rubik's cube to assemble and dis-assemble. I am thinking you shouldn't dis-assemble it. If you do there are a thin and a thick side of the inner bearing race (cage) the fat side will go up and the thin side goes down into the CV joint housing. I recommend you don't take it apart. just clean the **** out of it and then dry it the best you can.
You will need to get the sea foam out of there, Use the brake clean.

If you do take it apart take your time. The cage goes into the housing first, Then swoop up one side in line with a channel and drop in a ball then push it down and swoop it up to another channel and drop in the next. the last ball will tighten it up use the base of a wooden handle on a hammer and give it a tap to flatten it in there.

Pack the snot out of it with grease-CV joint grease 400 degrees plus
I used Valvoline. and make a big grease cone on top of the joint. that will fit into the boot.

Back at the axle. It is cleaned and your spacers and cir-lip are on.

slide the small CV boot band over the axle to the back and slide the boot on. then push the CV joint on and pull the boot over the lip of the CV joint. Don't crimp the bands yet.
note the bands open and can be installed later but the little one tends to get distorted so I fly him on first. Make sure the joint is seated all the way onto the axle.

Now the fun part,wipe any grease off the CV spline. Find that G spot again and push the axle into the housing. Also clean the grease from the CV joint shoulder with the teeth on it. Those teeth are for your sensor.

Install the NEW 17mm bolt finger tight. Be sure the axle is fully seated into the housing.

Once it is in reinstall the upper control arms.

Go to the other side and spin the tire. make sure the CV is not binding up.

now reach under the car wipe the boot clean, using a screw driver just lift the larger end of the boot. Sometimes during installation you can create a vacuum in the boot so you need to let some air in there to loose the vacuum. Wrap the large and small clamps over the ends and you will see how you can choke up on them. Get them as tight as you can before crimping(they will still feel loose)
Crimp them both down with your new crimp tool.

Wash your hands

Re-install the dust cover, rotor, caliper, sensor. Clean the rotor really good with the brake clean!!!

Find a really really HOT chick and have her apply the brakes for you.

Using your GOOD QUALITY not Cheapo, 1/2" Torque wrench.Set the wrench to Tighten the 17mm bolt to M14-115NM, M16 is 190NM then clockwise while she hold the brakes. 115NM=85 Ft Lbs , 190NM=140 Ft Lbs.
Note the M14, and M16 is referring to the diameter of the shank, part that has the threads. Not the Allen! so measure it.

Flex a little too while your at it. It's OK to multi task!

Once tight, check your dust cover, push it away from the rotor.

Reinstall your tire, Drop the car down. In Park, E brake on, Wheels chocked. and using the beefy new breaker bar give the center bolt another half turn 180 degrees this is the part that stretches the bolt.

Put the center cap back on and go clean yourself.

Done!

So there's two ways to do the job. Get to work!

That 4.0 Kick's ***!

The reason I save the old clamps is because you can remove a clamp and sneak some grease into your inner and rear CV joint boots. It's good to have the clamps around just in case.