2.7T 2003 52k! miles. The left CV boot is torn and I can see the joint metals inside. The right CV boot is about to crack. A local Audi dealer suggests replace left CV joint @ $550; replace right CV boot @ $320 including 5 hr labor for both work together. Plus tax.

If you have any comments on the following, it will be very helpful.
1) 5 hr dealer labor alone would cost ~ $750 or more. Their total quote is $870. Then the left joint and right boot together cost only $120? Cannot understand.
2) 'replace CV joint' - does this typically mean replacing the bearing and the boot, or the whole axle? Is it better to replace the whole axle?
3) The whole axle costs $650 (genuine Audi) or $150 (aftermarket, not by the dealer). For things like the axle, CV joint, should I go for Audi part or is an aftermarket part ok (this car is 9 yr old..). I am thinking to keep the car for 5+ more yrs.
4) How much more can I go with the current bad CV joint? Since first found the clicking noise due to the bad CV joint, I have driven ~ 500 to 1000 miles (mostly in the city with lots of turns). Current condition: Driving straight no noise; turns some noise. Additional 1500 miles ok?

Thanks.

 

Take it to an independent repair shop. I just got mine done for $300 for one side. Aftermarket axle with labor...

FYI, if you are a DIY type, you can replace the boot only, but after speaking to a mechanic, an aftermarket axle is about as cost efficient as replacing the boot after tacking on an hour of labor. Also the mechanic was able to provide a warranty on the axle assembly, where as he was not willing to give a warranty on the actual CV joint if the boot was the only thing replaced.

 

I wouldn't just replace the boot itself. The symptoms you are describing and the miles since you have noticed indicate the axle boot wouldn't do you any good.

I also recommend getting the whole axle for both sides replaced. I did a DIY job with aftermarket axles from this guy: Raxles.com.
They are about 200 per side + shipping. I ended up paying 450 (return label and tool included in shipping) and if you can do it within 1 or 2 weeks he won't even charge the core charge.

Audi wanted 500 per axle plus 200 per side core charge which means you get the 200 per side back when you return the old axles. Still without labor it's $1000.

If you are mechanically inclined it is a very easy job. The correct hex bolt is even included with Raxles so no need to buy it.

 

Like hxgaser says, take it to a good quality independent and save your money for your next Audi repair. The stealers price is absurd.

 

Just did the passenger side on my 2000 A6 FWD.

I did have to remove the pinch-bolt. The 17mm hex required a cheater-bar as did all of the 12pt stars on the transmission end.

It was $150 with a $75 core at Autozone here in Texas. Took about 1.5 hours.

So much easier than trying to use a gear puller to get the CV off. Just replace the whole thing. You can get the tools at Harbor Freight and save $300 in labor.

There are also videos on youtube. Check out similar jetta/passat for your a4/a6. I watched one on a VW and it was exactly like my A6 (except I would never use an impact gun on the 12pts!).

 

Don't take it to the dealer sounds stupid of me to say it but they *** rape u !!! I had the same problem in my auto 2004 a6 2.7t 48k buy the cv boot at Audi and take it to local shop u trust

 

Thanks guys. I got almost all the tools ready: EMPI axle, new shaft bolt, 12pt star, 17mm hex driver. The sizes of star and hex driver are correct. BUT I cannot loosen the shaft bolt. Tried with a torque wrench with 150 ft lb (the torque wrench is now bent a bit). Another wrench bent. Any tips on what wrench may work?

 

Coat with PB Blaster over night. Get yourself a good 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, and a 4 foot piece of pipe that will fit over the breaker bar. Then stand on the pipe. Bounce a little if you have to. She will loosen.

Also, FYI, torque wrenches are for tightening to a specific torque, not trying to loosen something, or you will most like ruin it.

 

great. thanks. I will get the those.

Another question. To jack up the car, do I jack up the front two points, or front/rear all 4 points, or driver side front/back two points? I am only changing the driver side front axle.

 

your best bet is just jack up that corner, and put a jack stand under it, or jack us the whole front and use a pair of jack stands.