Did brake pads and now the brakes are weak
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,371
From: Newfields NH
LOL I have a one person bleeder (pneumatically powered) but only use it as a jar to hold spent fluid because it is a PITA.
As for the little grumble-- That is normal after marriage.
Isn't it interesting how they go from I'll help you with anything. to You want me to do what?
As for the little grumble-- That is normal after marriage.
Isn't it interesting how they go from I'll help you with anything. to You want me to do what?
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 40
From: MD
Any wife that is allowed to drive an Audi had better be willing to sit in the vehicle and pump the brakes while your bleeding them.
Make sure the master cylinder is full of fluid and have her press on the brake peddle. Open the bleed valve (with a small hose attached whose end is in a jar) and tell her to let you know when the peddle hits the floor, tell her to keep it pressed down. close the valve and tell her to pump the brakes a few times --Repeat this multiple times at each wheel making sure you refill the master cylinder.
If your wife isn't willing to help tell her that she will soon be driving a Yugo...and the cute blond at the office will be driving her Audi.
PS If you follow these instructions and she slaps you up-the-side-of-the-head Don't blame me --Your the one that married her! not me!
Make sure the master cylinder is full of fluid and have her press on the brake peddle. Open the bleed valve (with a small hose attached whose end is in a jar) and tell her to let you know when the peddle hits the floor, tell her to keep it pressed down. close the valve and tell her to pump the brakes a few times --Repeat this multiple times at each wheel making sure you refill the master cylinder.
If your wife isn't willing to help tell her that she will soon be driving a Yugo...and the cute blond at the office will be driving her Audi.
PS If you follow these instructions and she slaps you up-the-side-of-the-head Don't blame me --Your the one that married her! not me!
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 38
argg, the first caliper went fine then on the second one I stripped then broke off the nipple. So I guess I'll have a mechanic fix that and then finish the job. I suppose I should have him replace all of the nipples while he's at it.....
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 517
From:
Just put a length of clear plastic flexable tubing on to the bleed screw nipple and put the other end in to a clear glass jar with a hole in the lid. Add a small amount of old brake fluid to the jar with the end of the plastic tube at the bottom. Locate the jar above the brake caliper and then open the bleeding screw and begin bleeding. When done bleeding, close the bleeding screw before removing the plastic tube.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
Sorry to revive an old thread. Just did a full brake job (rotors + pads + cleaning pad-caliper contact points, and lubricating guide pins) on my automatic 2005 allroad this weekend, using a Motive brake bleeder. Im not satisfied with pedal feal, and would like firmer pedal.
I bled the brakes 1 week prior to the full brake job, and after the brake job this week-end, using traditional method both times.
Bentley manual says to use the RF, LF, RR, LR bleeding sequence, brake pedal depressed, and 29PSI.
I used the traditional method (RR, LR, RF, LF), with 15 PSI the first time, and 25 PSI the second time. Never ran out of liquid.
The second time, I let almost a liter of fluid pass through system. Used 25 PSI , Noticed very few air bubbles at first, but let the bleeding go for about 2 minutes per wheel.
Also bedded my brakes after bleeding. I have more stopping power now, but still looking for firmer pedal.
I don’t own a Roos-Tech VCDS tool yet, but maybe I should go and engage ABS a few times on a slippery parking lot, then bleed again .
Any comments to help firm up the pedal? Should I trust the Bentley manual bleeding sequence?
I bled the brakes 1 week prior to the full brake job, and after the brake job this week-end, using traditional method both times.
Bentley manual says to use the RF, LF, RR, LR bleeding sequence, brake pedal depressed, and 29PSI.
I used the traditional method (RR, LR, RF, LF), with 15 PSI the first time, and 25 PSI the second time. Never ran out of liquid.
The second time, I let almost a liter of fluid pass through system. Used 25 PSI , Noticed very few air bubbles at first, but let the bleeding go for about 2 minutes per wheel.
Also bedded my brakes after bleeding. I have more stopping power now, but still looking for firmer pedal.
I don’t own a Roos-Tech VCDS tool yet, but maybe I should go and engage ABS a few times on a slippery parking lot, then bleed again .
Any comments to help firm up the pedal? Should I trust the Bentley manual bleeding sequence?
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,980
From: Northern California
I would say different pads also impact the brake feel. FYI, I went from pagid to Hawk HPS and the initial bite was less firm; however, never noticed faded with HPS where as Pagid felt like they were fading...
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
My new brakes are akebonos euro and zimmerman coated rotors. I bled my brakes again, using Bentley Publisher procedure this time. (29 psi from pressure bleeder ,brake pedal prop, closest wheel to furthest wheel). Saw some tiny bubbles escape the calipers. Went for another test drive, and to bed the brakes again. Pedal is slighty firmer , brakes smoother, and have more bite . I still find that the pedal travel is a bit excessive.