Hi, new to the site. I just replaced the cam tensioner seals and camshaft seals. I did not remove the timing belt. Even though I marked the intake cam sprocket, it probably would have helpful to actually look at it when reassembeling. I somehow managed to turn the intake cam one tooth out of align when I put it together. The codes were P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 P0341. There is so little wiggle room if you do not remove the exhaust cam. At first I didn't believe that I had rotated the cam but under closer inspection you can actually turn it by fiddling with chain. I rotate it a whole circle and it is now back in place. I'm still getting codes P0300 P0301 P302 P0303.

What to do now. Go buy a compression gauge. Tell my wife I'm concerned about global warming and am now biking everywhere. Use to be a 2001 2.8l ATQ

 

1 tooth off should not damage your valves. It won't run well but putting it back in sync should fix the problem.

Did you clear your codes?
-> are they coming back?

 

Thanks Jeffla,

Yes I cleared the codes and am still getting the P0300,P0301,P0302,P0303 and it is running very rough. You'll notice the original P0341 camshaft po. sensor range/performance code has cleared up. So I assume I'm back in synch.

 

First rule: don't panic. Sounds like you are being calm, so pull the timing belt covers if they are on, rotate the crank until the TDC mark is aligned with the pointer and check that the holes in the plates on the cam pulleys make a nice horizontal line. If not, your belt timing has moved. If OK, you might have some valve damage. The fact that your cam position sensor is good now indicates a correctly timed intake cam, so that is not going to cause the misfire. So, if everything checks out on the timing belt timing, you probably bent something and it is causing the misfire. Even then, replacing valves isn't too bad on these engines since they very rarely damage seats, guides or pistons thanks to their pathetic weak stems.

Be wary of compression and leak down tests - I got pretty decent results on both with a bent valve.

 

Thanks loach1,

Kind words indeed. Guess I'll be doing that timing belt change sooner then I expected.

 

Some additional thoughts. How hard is it to pull the head on the ATQ if you are already changing the timing belt? Does the engine have to be pulled out or is there clearance? Head bolt torque spec? Paper Bentley is mum on this subject. Thanks in advance.

 

The head isn't bad to pull, but it is tedious. The intake manifold takes a bit of wrestling with because of number of screws and hoses, the exhaust manifold needs to have a heat shield removed which requires the O2 and EGT sensors to be extracted first. The head bolts have to be replaced with new, torque settings are typical for stretch bolts - pre-torque, then angles. Usually the head gasket has the requirements with it...Very important: drain the block of coolant first!! Draining the radiator is not sufficient and coolant will spill into your oil ways.

All can be done with engine in, no problems there.

 

Thanks again,

I know you're going to tell me to take that cheap compression gauge and deposit it in the trash but I couldn't help myself. Here for entertainment value are the numbers #1-200psi #2-200 #3-205 #4-170 #5-180 #6-175. The bank with the bent valves has higher compression. Welcome to my strange world.

 

With those numbers you are fine. No bent valves! Check the timing belt pulleys are lining up as they should. See pic at bottom of pg 13-4 in your Bentley.

 

To tell you the truth it's really hard to site that with the front end in place. I was fiddling with a small pocket level and I can't say definitively if the're lined up or slightly off . I'm at 87K so I'll just do the timing belt service. The alignment tool you rent will prove it. That way I will know I'm for sure that the timing is correct. Thanks again loach1 I owe you.