DIY: BlauSport Struts
#11
09-18-2009, 08:48 AM
#1- Step, Shoulder, Chamfer... If you look again, you can see it right at the top of the bump stop.
#2- Nope. I actually pump until the car just lifts off the jack stand and is supported on the suspension. Whether the suspension is on a jack or not, when it compresses enough to lift the car it'll be at 'ride height'.
#2- Nope. I actually pump until the car just lifts off the jack stand and is supported on the suspension. Whether the suspension is on a jack or not, when it compresses enough to lift the car it'll be at 'ride height'.
Thanks much, bubba. You sold me on those Blau Blues...
#13
01-18-2010, 09:13 AM
As I didnt have the special Audi tool for removing the strut nut, I went to my local Smith's Farm Store and found both a 22mm Deep Impact Socket and 7mm Long Arm Allen. Using my bench grinder, I proceeded to make my own:
Attachment 4769
(continued)
Attachment 4769
(continued)
As far as the tool needed; for those of us without a bench grinder...try using an "offset, oxygen sensor socket". I tried this out last night and it seems to work perfectly for this application.
If I have any issues when I actually change the fronts out (my mission today), I will let everyone know.
#14
11-12-2010, 10:13 PM
After so many months... 
For removing the strut nut, I can add another "tool" version, as I couldn't find my ox sensor wrench. I attached a pic.
As far as the job itself, man I really have hard time getting the Threaded Cap removed, and I wish I should have double-checked Jim's write-up before starting the job. I remembered about the pipe wrench, but I only have a huge 36"-er and it doesn't really grip the cap right. I tried with a pair of big channel locks and still no go. It looks like I need to get a diff pipe wrench or use some heat... Also, needless to say, I already removed the mount (like an idiot) and my strut decompressed under its own weight, just like Jim's...
I'll get out of this pickle somehow and I shall continue the saga...
For removing the strut nut, I can add another "tool" version, as I couldn't find my ox sensor wrench. I attached a pic.
As far as the job itself, man I really have hard time getting the Threaded Cap removed, and I wish I should have double-checked Jim's write-up before starting the job. I remembered about the pipe wrench, but I only have a huge 36"-er and it doesn't really grip the cap right. I tried with a pair of big channel locks and still no go. It looks like I need to get a diff pipe wrench or use some heat... Also, needless to say, I already removed the mount (like an idiot) and my strut decompressed under its own weight, just like Jim's...
I'll get out of this pickle somehow and I shall continue the saga...
#15
11-13-2010, 09:10 PM
You'll need the proper socket when its time to tighten that nut as you need to make sure its at the proper spec.
Told ya
NOTE: you will need a 18" wrench as the cap is large. Also, I suggest using a ratchet strap going from the strut to an anchor point somewhere in the engine bay. Why? When you remove the Strut Insert the top of the tire will push outwards. Moving the wheel only aggravates this, and trying to remove the Threaded Cap WILL move the tire. Once moved, you will have to use brute force to get it back into position. Not fun at all. believe me. Bentley says to 'use a block of wood between the steering arm and spring' but I dont see how this would work as it all moves as one. Sorry, I dont have a pic as I didnt think of it till after.
#16
11-14-2010, 01:33 PM
I purchased yesterday an 18" pipe wrench but still can't get the damn cap loose. The way my coils are allows to fit the pipe wrench only from right-to-left if I can say that. It would be good for actually tighten the nut, but in this position the teeth don't really grip strong enough around the cap to unscrew it. And I cannot turn it the other way because the coil doesn't allow the wrenche's shoulder to fit in there that way...
I tried to grip it with a huge pair of channel locks but my hand itself doesn't produce enough torque
Strut movement isn't a problem since I slipped the upper mount back on to hold the strut in place.
I may have to bite the bullet and pay $ 70 for VAG2069 (MATRA 2069A)...and wait until I get the tool.
Taking the whole assembly out is out of question, for sure - I'd hate to take the CV axle(s) out again...
I would just try a hammer and a chisle, but I'm affraid I may strip the threads. And since I used PBlaster on it, applying heat with a torch is out of question (fire hazard).
Damn...
I tried to grip it with a huge pair of channel locks but my hand itself doesn't produce enough torque
Strut movement isn't a problem since I slipped the upper mount back on to hold the strut in place.
I may have to bite the bullet and pay $ 70 for VAG2069 (MATRA 2069A)...and wait until I get the tool.
Taking the whole assembly out is out of question, for sure - I'd hate to take the CV axle(s) out again...
I would just try a hammer and a chisle, but I'm affraid I may strip the threads. And since I used PBlaster on it, applying heat with a torch is out of question (fire hazard).
Damn...
#17
11-14-2010, 02:06 PM
Not sure what you mean about the pipe wrench not fitting? You should be able to extend or compress the suspension, and thus the coil, to allow a good fit.. I had to put it on there and use a 3lb hammer to tap it loose. Yours might be tighter, but you should be able to use a pipe for more leverage.
Getting that strut back up there was a beotch, huh?
Getting that strut back up there was a beotch, huh?
#18
11-14-2010, 06:30 PM
and what a beotch!
Had to push the whole hub/strut assembly with one foot (hell of a balancing act to push with enough power) to straighten it, and reach with one hand over the top and try pulling the damn shaft out... Took several tries...
Well, I kept tinkering with the pipe wrench after the previous post and as a matter of fact I somehow made it fit from left-to-right. Got the sob cap loose finally...
The driver side strut is in. Took a short spin and already feels different.
Got three more to change, as all remaining ones are shot as well... LOL...Tomorrow is another day
Had to push the whole hub/strut assembly with one foot (hell of a balancing act to push with enough power) to straighten it, and reach with one hand over the top and try pulling the damn shaft out... Took several tries...
Well, I kept tinkering with the pipe wrench after the previous post and as a matter of fact I somehow made it fit from left-to-right. Got the sob cap loose finally...
The driver side strut is in. Took a short spin and already feels different.
Got three more to change, as all remaining ones are shot as well... LOL...Tomorrow is another day
#20
11-15-2010, 12:41 AM
Shove the Dust Boot through the top and attach to the little lip on the Bearing Plate (you'll see it). I found it easiest to get one side started from below and then reach through the top with one hand to stretch it around the lip while holding it on from below with the other (no pics, hands were full). Once on, I used a large Zip-Tie (used to hold Flex-Duct in HVAC) to secure the Dust Boot to the Bearing Plate better.
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Then I used another, smaller, Zip-Tie to secure the bottom of the Boot to the strut. It is loose here, but with the Zip-Tie will not slip up over the threaded cap.:
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Then I used another, smaller, Zip-Tie to secure the bottom of the Boot to the strut. It is loose here, but with the Zip-Tie will not slip up over the threaded cap.:
Anyway, since I had such hard time to get it in place, I used a PINK zip-tie...
As far as the bottom side, I still had a plastic "sleeve" that slips over the threaded cap basically. It has a raised ridge the bottom of the Boot slips over. When the strut is mounted (compressed position) it totally covers the threads and holds the boot in place pretty well.
(I'll take a pic tomorrow if I remember)