Wife's 2000 A-6 twin turbo died today with no warningright after the battery warning light displayed on the dash. Within minutes the car would not run.
I put a jumper on it tonight and within minutes the light went out. Car started fine and in 6 miles of driving it went from 12+ volts to slightly above 6 volts.
Belts are tight, how can I determine if it is the alternator not charging. When I hooked up my jumper cables frommy other car, the battery came back within 5 minutes of charging but then the ride home (6 miles) with no lights or accessories on, drained the battery again.
I have it in the garage on a charger now.
I want to segregate if it is the alternator or the battery.
How hard is it to replace the alternator; doesn't seem to be much room?
Perhaps the heavy downpours of the last few days and the fact that the underbody pan under the engine is missing may have caused water to splash onto and affect, the alternator?
New pan was replaced by Audi one month ago and fell off on the highway. Goodbye $250.00
Any suggestions or ideas welcomed on this electrical problem or how to diagnose it.
Thank you in advance,
Kurt

 

The car should have a voltage guage on the dash. If the voltage created while the car is running isnt between 12 and 15 then the alternator is bad. You can go to advance auto parts or somewhere like that and they will test both your alternator and battery for free. If the battery warning light comes on, that means the alternator is not producing a sufficient charge.

 

99A6Q,
Thank you
Based on your reply, it is the alternator as I can watch the voltage on the dash mounted voltage meterdrop while I am driving. The alternator is not keeping the battery cgarged.

Any idea regarding the difficulty level of removing the alternator myself?
Kurt

 

Before diving for an alternator replacement, check the battery. I would actually just replace the battery to see if you haven't in a couple of years. Modern alternators are not designed to charge battery if the charge level is way low anyways. A lot of the times, it is just the battery.

 

Take the car to auto zone or simmilar and test for free. Then you will know for sure what it is.

 

If I just replace the battery, don't I run the risk of just masking the problem until such time as the battery runs down (IF it is the alternator that is at fault) and then I still need to replace the alternator ??

 

Ok, I believe it is the alternator as I just used a tester that showed no charge being put out by the alternator.
Also, visual inspection while motor running revealed alternator pulley is not turning and belts are rubbing causing smoke and burning smell.
So, how difficult is it to remove the alternator on this model.
I have restored my 68 Corvette but am not familiar with German cars. Looks like it comes out from bottom but lots of things are in the way.
Also, my digital volt meter shows that while the engine is off the battery loses 1/10 volt every 4 seconds. I can watch the display on the meter change. Went from 13.85 volts to 13.43 in 1/10 increments every 4-5 seconds.
Any suggestions?
Kurt

 

OK, if your alternator is not tunring then the bearing is probably locked up. To test the battery put one lead of your voltmeter on the positive and the other on the negative terminals of the battery. Then have someone try and start the car. If the voltage of the battery drops much more than 9 volts then the battery will need to be replaced also. The way it sounds though, your alternator is to blame.

 

Any suggestions on removal procedure and if it can be done at home or must it go back to Audi dealer?
Kurt

 

i had mine go out on me and i had it done at the dealership i bought it from, they said it was the most pain in the *** thing they've ever done, they had to remove the bumper, the radiator, and some other parts just to get to it. i personally would get quotes from different places, that specialize in euro cars, unless your pretty mechanical and you have to be God to work on an audi.