HELP!! Car won't give me hot air!
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 10
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
HELP!! Car won't give me hot air!
It's -35C here right now... I kid you not.
The car, when idling either in my driveway or at a light, will NOT blow hot air. It stays warm when the car is moving but as soon as I stop at a light, it starts blowing hot. The temp is set high, it's consistantly doing this on all the heat settings (auto, up, down, econ, recirc).
I'm wondering, I heard that there is an aux. water pump, I beleive it is driven by an electric motor, and I "Think" it sits under the intake manifold, what's it for? does it have anything to do with the HVAC system?
It WAS just an annoyance a couple weeks ago, but we hit this cold snap and now it's making the 40min. drive to work a bit of a nightmare.
Can anyone out there offer up some advice?
Luke
Calgary
The car, when idling either in my driveway or at a light, will NOT blow hot air. It stays warm when the car is moving but as soon as I stop at a light, it starts blowing hot. The temp is set high, it's consistantly doing this on all the heat settings (auto, up, down, econ, recirc).
I'm wondering, I heard that there is an aux. water pump, I beleive it is driven by an electric motor, and I "Think" it sits under the intake manifold, what's it for? does it have anything to do with the HVAC system?
It WAS just an annoyance a couple weeks ago, but we hit this cold snap and now it's making the 40min. drive to work a bit of a nightmare.
Can anyone out there offer up some advice?
Luke
Calgary
Site Moderator
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,004
From: Nor Cal
Check the temperature of the gauge, if the engine is running cold you may have a stuck open thermostat keeping the engine from warming up. If the engine is running at the correct temp then you could have a blocked heater core or a coolant leak.
The after run pump basically circulates coolant through the turbos after the engine is turned off to keep them cool. That won't be your problem.
The after run pump basically circulates coolant through the turbos after the engine is turned off to keep them cool. That won't be your problem.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 368
From: SW PA
OP, I think you made a mistype at the "stop at a red light it blows hot air", think you meant it stops blowing hot air.
Mine own does that. Mine own will warm the coolant to point 1 on the guage, if I sit there long enough.Will NOT produce any HOT air, just a bit warmer than ambient.
Move on, get some revs, and the air hots up. Seems to me the pump is not moving water at idle.
Temp guage never gets up above Point1 but with idling it will boil over. Rad fan will not come on, indicating, I THINK that it is the engine temp sensor that is defective.
I don't know if this A6 HAS a sensor in the rad that will turn on the fans.
I hate that I just had this engine replaced and the mechs, and I, did not replace the water pump and thermostat.Is this a sign that I have the plastic impellor pump that is worn away?
Cheers,
George
Mine own does that. Mine own will warm the coolant to point 1 on the guage, if I sit there long enough.Will NOT produce any HOT air, just a bit warmer than ambient.
Move on, get some revs, and the air hots up. Seems to me the pump is not moving water at idle.
Temp guage never gets up above Point1 but with idling it will boil over. Rad fan will not come on, indicating, I THINK that it is the engine temp sensor that is defective.
I don't know if this A6 HAS a sensor in the rad that will turn on the fans.
I hate that I just had this engine replaced and the mechs, and I, did not replace the water pump and thermostat.Is this a sign that I have the plastic impellor pump that is worn away?
Cheers,
George
Site Moderator
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,004
From: Nor Cal
No, both of you have two different problems. Gmatov your problem is that you don't get heat when you are sitting still but works when you are moving. This tells me the water pump and thermostat is working, but coolant isn't getting through the heater core. The heater core is so plugged up that when the engine is idling there isn't enough coolant pressure to push it through the heater core. To fix that take out the battery, and locate the two coolant hoses going into the cabin. Take them both off and used compressed air to blow out one of the hoses (you will get soaked in coolant doing this) this will clear out the crap in the heater core. Reconnect the hoses and battery, run the engine with the coolant cap off until all the air is out of the system and then try the heater.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 368
From: SW PA
Auditech,
Thanks, but, before the engine crapped out on me, same problem, no heat. When the mechs replaced the motor, I told them the heater core needed flushed, which they did.
I am at a loss, my own self. Someone sent me pics of the timing belt replacement which had a piece marked WP in the valley between the banks, the large pulley that is tensioned down on the outside of the timing belt.
Searching for water pump at SJM, Shokan, Rock, pics show a pump with flange that sure as heck don't look like it will fit there. Others say it is down low on the engine.
My Audi manual still will not install in English (I haven't really tried very hard since had to replace my main computer with my backup, since it bit the dust).
Is there a fan control screwed into the radiator to control the fan when engine temp gets too high?
My other Audi is a 90 100. Wide open and my 84-88 manual is good for most part for that car. This car, EVERYTHING is hidden and arcane.
Your remedy is what I had them do at the time. I have read there are pumps with metal and pumps with plastic impellors. I don't know what I have. I do wish I had had them, pump and thermostat, replaced, when they changed the engine.
Cheers,
George
Oh, on edit, when I am driving down the road, my guage goes down nearly to the peg, especially in the recent temps. At a stoplight, the guage will hit the first 1/4 mark. Air is not HOT. That makes me think the pump is not putting out. My 90 is more comfortable.
Thanks, but, before the engine crapped out on me, same problem, no heat. When the mechs replaced the motor, I told them the heater core needed flushed, which they did.
I am at a loss, my own self. Someone sent me pics of the timing belt replacement which had a piece marked WP in the valley between the banks, the large pulley that is tensioned down on the outside of the timing belt.
Searching for water pump at SJM, Shokan, Rock, pics show a pump with flange that sure as heck don't look like it will fit there. Others say it is down low on the engine.
My Audi manual still will not install in English (I haven't really tried very hard since had to replace my main computer with my backup, since it bit the dust).
Is there a fan control screwed into the radiator to control the fan when engine temp gets too high?
My other Audi is a 90 100. Wide open and my 84-88 manual is good for most part for that car. This car, EVERYTHING is hidden and arcane.
Your remedy is what I had them do at the time. I have read there are pumps with metal and pumps with plastic impellors. I don't know what I have. I do wish I had had them, pump and thermostat, replaced, when they changed the engine.
Cheers,
George
Oh, on edit, when I am driving down the road, my guage goes down nearly to the peg, especially in the recent temps. At a stoplight, the guage will hit the first 1/4 mark. Air is not HOT. That makes me think the pump is not putting out. My 90 is more comfortable.
Last edited by gmatov; Dec 17, 2008 at 02:21 AM.
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,941
From: IL
I have read there are pumps with metal and pumps with plastic impellors. I don't know what I have. I do wish I had had them, pump and thermostat, replaced, when they changed the engine.
Oh, on edit, when I am driving down the road, my guage goes down nearly to the peg, especially in the recent temps. At a stoplight, the guage will hit the first 1/4 mark. Air is not HOT. That makes me think the pump is not putting out. My 90 is more comfortable.
Oh, on edit, when I am driving down the road, my guage goes down nearly to the peg, especially in the recent temps. At a stoplight, the guage will hit the first 1/4 mark. Air is not HOT. That makes me think the pump is not putting out. My 90 is more comfortable.
Until you fix the problem, it may be wise to add a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator; even if only over half of it, but it will make a difference on the road.
Site Moderator
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,004
From: Nor Cal
No if the water pump didn't work then the engine would overheat, especially when sitting still. I would say your thermostat is stuck open. The water pump and thermostat are next to each other behind the timing belt assembly. The only way to get at them is to either to take the front end off or pull it forward with the hoses still connected.
Check out www.ecstuning.com they sell a kit that has absolutely everything included in the "timing section" including the steel impellor water pump. The stock water pumps are plastic.
Check out www.ecstuning.com they sell a kit that has absolutely everything included in the "timing section" including the steel impellor water pump. The stock water pumps are plastic.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 368
From: SW PA
Auditech,
I'm sorry. I didn't mention that I had it back to the mech BECAUSE it boiled over. Allow it to idle, other than first thing in the Winter AM, for more than 5 or 10 minutes and the cap pops, 21 bucks per gallon antifreeze spews forth.
My mechs are good but they are not geared to foreign cars. Don't even want me to recommend them to other German car owners, they are too complicated.
They done good with mine. Took it apart, put it back together, not short any bolts, none left over.
Took it to the boneyard that specializes in Foreign, and Audi in particular, for the heater prob. Mech tried a vaccuum pump on the heater valve, said it was working. Went to the office so he could print out some schematics on the climate control head. By the time we got back to the car it was blowing coolant all over the place.
I don't think that is a thermo stuck open. Nor stuck shut. It would be boiling over at 60 MPH, too.
Am I wrong to think that that pic of the TB showing something titled WP in the valley between the banks is NOT the WP. Logic says it should be at the lowest point of the engine to have the most input pressure, the weight of the water itself.
That would call for removal of all the parts that were replaced when TB was replaced. Cam lock and crank lock, etc.
Still like to know if there is a fan control switch in the radiator. I think the one in the rad on my old one was the thermotime switch to control the prestart or fuel enrichment injector. Basically, the "choke". The coolant sensor was near the thermo housing, also down low on that engine.
The reference to TCS or TCU in other posts seems to be all about engine temp sensors to tell the guage what to display.
I don't care what the display is. I just want heat when I need it and cooling of the engine when it is sitting still.
Cheers,
George
I'm sorry. I didn't mention that I had it back to the mech BECAUSE it boiled over. Allow it to idle, other than first thing in the Winter AM, for more than 5 or 10 minutes and the cap pops, 21 bucks per gallon antifreeze spews forth.
My mechs are good but they are not geared to foreign cars. Don't even want me to recommend them to other German car owners, they are too complicated.
They done good with mine. Took it apart, put it back together, not short any bolts, none left over.
Took it to the boneyard that specializes in Foreign, and Audi in particular, for the heater prob. Mech tried a vaccuum pump on the heater valve, said it was working. Went to the office so he could print out some schematics on the climate control head. By the time we got back to the car it was blowing coolant all over the place.
I don't think that is a thermo stuck open. Nor stuck shut. It would be boiling over at 60 MPH, too.
Am I wrong to think that that pic of the TB showing something titled WP in the valley between the banks is NOT the WP. Logic says it should be at the lowest point of the engine to have the most input pressure, the weight of the water itself.
That would call for removal of all the parts that were replaced when TB was replaced. Cam lock and crank lock, etc.
Still like to know if there is a fan control switch in the radiator. I think the one in the rad on my old one was the thermotime switch to control the prestart or fuel enrichment injector. Basically, the "choke". The coolant sensor was near the thermo housing, also down low on that engine.
The reference to TCS or TCU in other posts seems to be all about engine temp sensors to tell the guage what to display.
I don't care what the display is. I just want heat when I need it and cooling of the engine when it is sitting still.
Cheers,
George
Site Moderator
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,004
From: Nor Cal
The water pump is located almost right in the center of the block behind the timing belt like i have stated before. You now say that the engine is boiling over indicating it can't be a stuck open thermostat, it must be a blown water pump. You need to buy the entire repair kit and drive this vehicle to the dealer. Its beyond what a honda/chevy tech can do, or want to do.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 368
From: SW PA
Auditech,
Thanks. That is what I think I have to do. My guys are capable of this job. They've been getting "stuck" with all kinds of foreign car repairs over the last few years.
They've done all my work since I hurt my back. Reasonable, too.
Fortunately, I still have the '90 100 to use while it's in the shop. Borrowed a cam lock last time I had a problem with it. Took measurements and had steel bent to make a copy. Meal bender was supposed to drill and install the pins, only did the bending, sent it to his brothers shop to drill without the spacing and sizes. Have to have that done.
That is one healthy piece of steel they make that from. I'd still like to get sizes of the crank lock to make my own. Snap-On wants over 300 for the set, though I did find it online for just under 100.
Question: Since I did replace TB, tensioner, idler, when the engine was replaced, 3,000 miles ago, SHOULD I spring another few bucks and buy another one? My parts house sells only Continental belts. Euclid Foreign Parts, if you know of them. Chain from Euclid, Ohio, I think.
I mean, what the hell, they got it off, anyway, put a new one on.
Cheers,
George
Thanks. That is what I think I have to do. My guys are capable of this job. They've been getting "stuck" with all kinds of foreign car repairs over the last few years.
They've done all my work since I hurt my back. Reasonable, too.
Fortunately, I still have the '90 100 to use while it's in the shop. Borrowed a cam lock last time I had a problem with it. Took measurements and had steel bent to make a copy. Meal bender was supposed to drill and install the pins, only did the bending, sent it to his brothers shop to drill without the spacing and sizes. Have to have that done.
That is one healthy piece of steel they make that from. I'd still like to get sizes of the crank lock to make my own. Snap-On wants over 300 for the set, though I did find it online for just under 100.
Question: Since I did replace TB, tensioner, idler, when the engine was replaced, 3,000 miles ago, SHOULD I spring another few bucks and buy another one? My parts house sells only Continental belts. Euclid Foreign Parts, if you know of them. Chain from Euclid, Ohio, I think.
I mean, what the hell, they got it off, anyway, put a new one on.
Cheers,
George
