well, maybe it's just a part identification. here's what i have.

i have a 00 2.7t a6 tip. it has around 125k on it and i just had the secondary water pump break on me. while doing the replacement on the secondary water pump, i broke something.. and here's where i need help. it's a formed air passage between a rubber T center behind the intake and some diaphram valve lookin thing of some sorts on the valve cover. the T comes out of the secondary air pump. i am thinking the secondary air pump must have something to so with the automatic transmission as my 00 2.7t A6 6spd does not have the pump off center behind the intake, nor the valves on the valve covers and of course, no tubing. being short on time and money, i pulled out the Mountaineer playbook and duct taped the hose together. i put several, but not excessive layers and it felt like a good seal blowing through it.

now, yesterday i was pulling onto the interstate and at the end of the rpm range i started getting a surging/stuttering feel. this was only under extreme pull so i put it down to a boost leak and vowed to pressure test it this weekend. however, today it was worse. very much worse. pulling away from a light, or any time you would try to accel, it would start shaking and hesitating.. if i kept my foot in it, after 4 or 5 seconds the CEL would flash. i found if i kept the rpm range higher, thus demanding less torque/pull, it lessened the problem. i had auto zome pull the code and look it up and it was a 142something i want to say 1428 but i have seen that code before and looking it up inside, it indicates low output from the secondary air pump. also, when i first start the car, the air pump whines loudly, which it hadn't done until recently. now, i am pretty sure my WV special failed me. what i'm looking for is the name of that tube so i can get a replacement. also, how necessary is the secondary air pump. my 6spd 2.7t doesn't have one, and they are expensive to replace...

 

This should help. The file is too large. Perhaps an email. PM me.

 

pm sent. i wrapped the tube again with some high-temp tape. hopefully that will hold for a few days... but it didn't cure the problem... anybody have any ideas what i'm dealing with here?

 

Keep us posted, did the file Jackson101 sent or offered help? Can you take photos of the damaged area/secondary water pump?

 

yea jackson sent over a pdf of the secondary air injection system. looking it over, the line i am talking about is the connection tube to the right (on the passenger side of the car) combi valve. but i don't think that's the problem as i have it sealed up and the motor still acts like it's missing under under load.

BTW, has anybody found the secondary air injection pump for less than $400?

 

Do a search on ebay you can find a secondary air pump for about $150

The code you had about the air pump sounds correct since you had a leak in the line but it shouldnt have any effect on your performance I think you are having two seperate issues occuring here. Did you have any other codes show up?

 

Force five - Concord NH

 

if the EGR/Combi Valve was going bad would that affect it? i think the air injection pump might have caught and pumped some coolant when my secondary water pump blew up. i remember when the line broke in my hands, there was some coolant in the line. this happened while i was changing the secondary water pump. another thing i have noticed, my oil temp runs about 40-50F higher than it used to, while my water temps remain stable during cruise, but can overheat if i have to wait for a string of lights on a hot day or i'm caught in the drive through..

regarding the codes, amazingly no. every time i keep my foot in it and it stutters for more than 2 seconds, it dumps a code. i only had autozone pull the codes once since this happened, but its the same code i've had since i bought the car 6 months ago, and it never had this hesitation issue. i am going to pressure test the system when i can find a compressor to use since mine dumped on me. i know the car previously had vacuum leaks in the line going to the res bottle, and the connecting line going into the rear port on the top of the manifold that i fixed when i replaced the water pump.

autozone refused to clear the codes, so i have to find someone with a scanner to clear them. i know, being the owner of 2 audis, i should have a bentley manual and vagcom, but i'm just not in the position to spend the money they want for those items retail, knowing i have to spend more to repair the vehicle... i have a decent depth of automotive repair knowledge and experience, but it's not my profession, are some things that are beyond my skill set or tool set... mostly tool set..

 

I would examine the other vacuum hoses that connect to the intake at the back of the engine (the infamous spyder pipe). You could be running lean which indicates a vacuum leak. Any easy test is to get some carb cleaner and spray it at any possible leak point. The engine will bog down when you spray the offending area.

Good luck,

Bob

 

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