Well has some of you remember about a month ago my 2000 A6 2.7T started to hesitate when you reached 2500-3000rpm's like it lost power and regained it. So I went home unplugged the MAF and took it out for a ride and no hesitation. Plugged it back in and the hesitation returned. So I purchased a new MAF and was so happy, plugged it in and. . . .THE HESITATION. . . .was back. Any suggestions? Where to start. Thanks in advance.

 

Are you runing a K&N filter?

 

The car is bone stock. No K&N. Stock Air box and stock filter. Also another thing I failed to mention is, I know the turbos have diverter valves so it recirculates the pressure, but it sounds like I have a small BOV as it sounds like some pressure is releasing into the atmosphere

 

Did the DV's do that before you changed the MAF? Are the fault codes the same? What measurment is the MAF reading on the VAG COM at idle and WOT?

 

No the DV's did it before the MAF change. The fault codes are the same. they are P1136, Bank 1 lean, P1138 Bank 2 lean, P1129 Bank 2 Rich, P1127 Bank 1 Rich. Those are the codes. Everything points to the MAF but the new one does the same thing. Where do I go from here. I do not have a vag com so i dont know the reading. What do you think. Thanks. The car runs fin with the MAF unplugged????

 

It runs good with the new MAF unplugged? Thats sounds like you got a dud from the store you bought it at, i would try and get a re-fund, you didn't buy a MAF from a place like autozone or checkers did you?

 

Nah I will return the MAF. And get another one. Is there any way to check to see if the MAF is good. Like with a meter? thanks

 

Maybe a torn TBB?

 

Which one is the Throtle Body Boot?

 

Need help bump