Audi A6 The mid-sized Audi A6 model offers more room to the driver and passengers over the A4 line.

Mechanic told me my A6 tipT trans is overengineered and would be fine with 400hp

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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 02:56 PM
  #11  
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Now wait a damn second... is the trans the issue here or is it the torque converter? SOme real info would help.
 
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:45 PM
  #12  
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I would say anything beyond stage 1 is risky. Like APR says, they designed their stage 1 to function within OEM specs for stress. Thats 382 lb-ft with 93 octane. I have not heard of a stage 2 or 3 A6 with a tip. I met a guy who has stage 3, he swapped out the tip for a manual on the recommendation of the installer (installer had nothing to gain, shop did not do trans swaps). Go ahead and go above 400lb-ft but, personally, I would not do that with a tip.
 
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:06 PM
  #13  
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I recently took apart a tip trany from 2004 2.7t, from what I have seen inside of it, I dont think it would hold up to 400lb-ft of torque, i think maybe around 350 safe? There is to many small tiny components that just cant withohl such a power, example: the only thing hat holds torque converter to the fly wheel is trhee tine bolts.
 
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #14  
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Found a review of the 2003 RS6 with tip...
"Audi's contention that the V8 maintains its 415 pound-feet maximum torque across such a wide rev range means that the company has had to severely limit boost. Indeed, the engine controller regulates both boost and ignition timing to make sure that the engine doesn't put out too much torque. Otherwise, one suspects the transmission would frag itself." Given APR's 382lb-ft fall within OEM stress range for the 2.7T (according to APR and they have a good reputation for making "safe" chips) and the mighty RS6 with tip seems to be capped at 415 lb-ft (and I bet that the RS6 tip was beefed up), I would say above 400lb-ft with a 2.7T C5 tip is risky. Because the 2.7T delivers high torque numbers well above the hp numbers at a very low rpm with any chip on the market (stage 3 apr gives 467lb-ft and AWE gives 525lb-ft and recommend a clutch kit with it) if you hit 400hp you are looking at around 500lb-ft of torque. I would bet money that the stock tip would get destroyed with that kind of power
 

Last edited by frizzlefry; Jan 26, 2010 at 08:11 PM.
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:56 PM
  #15  
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Default Here is the answer from APR

Being that I am planning on getting an APR stage 1 chip for my 2004 2.7T A6 I thought "why not just ask them?" Here is the answer on what the OEM tip can handle...
"Yes the OEM transmission in the A6 2.7T engines can handle the stage 1 ECU upgrade with out an issue, and additionally the stage 2 upgrade as well. Now this would be stated as long as the transmission is in good shape and is not in need of repair or service. The stage 3 kit however would require for transmission upgrades to hold stage 3 power levels safely."

Stage 2 will get you about 370hp or less. So It seems that the A6 OEM tiptronic transmission will not handle 400hp. If you want to go stage 2 and reach the limits of the tip transmission, you will have to buy KO4 turbos, bi-pipe kit, performance diverter valves etc or your OEM turbos will blow before the transmission starts to fail.
 
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #16  
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 2.7t S-line with a GIAC Chip, new bypass valves, and a racing air filter. The car pushes around 350hp now. The car runs great, but it has been misfiring lately which caused some of the ignition coils to fail.
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 12:04 AM
  #17  
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Thanks everyone for the info. I plan on converting to a manual in a year or two. I am probably just going to stick with stage 1 untill that time.

Another question: How much of a PIA is it to convert to a manual? Is it fairly straight forward for a shop to do... or is it an amazingly complicated process? How much am I looking at give or take for labor?
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 01:19 AM
  #18  
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Its fairly complicated for an inexperienced shop. The ECU will need to be coded so it thinks its a manual to prevent major problems. The crankshaft in the engine has to be changed because it won't bolt up to a flywheel, the rest is simple fabrication for the shifter assembly. Parts and labor should run you around $10,000.
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 01:27 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by auditech79
Its fairly complicated for an inexperienced shop. The ECU will need to be coded so it thinks its a manual to prevent major problems. The crankshaft in the engine has to be changed because it won't bolt up to a flywheel, the rest is simple fabrication for the shifter assembly. Parts and labor should run you around $10,000.
10k? LOL

Does anyone offer a beefed up automatic on the aftermarket?
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 03:48 AM
  #20  
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if you hit 400hp you are looking at around 500lb-ft of torque.
Huh? 382ft-lb = 401hp @ 5000 rpm. That 500ft-lb gives 476 hp @ 5000 rpm. 400hp = 420ft-lbs @ 5000 RPM. This assumes 5k is the point the peak torque is reached, which wasnt said... 500ft-lb @ 4200 rpm would = 400hp.. but that seems alittle low of a rpm for a higher winding engine...

However, I tend to agree with not going over ~350hp..or ~300-310 ft-lbs
 

Last edited by Midniteoyl; Jan 27, 2010 at 03:56 AM.



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