My first problem with my car...
#21
12-01-2008, 12:51 AM
NH,
Please allow me to direct you to reread my post. My HF scanner DID give me those codes.
That is why I am looking for the modules.
HF scanner allows me to reset the 'Puter to erase. I don't want to till I replace the coil module.
Would you?
To use the VAG Com cable and SW, I would have to run about 75 foot of CAT5 cable into the house to my main computer, or carry one outside.
I don't know if the prices I am seeing are because all they seem to have for sale are complete units, or because they simply want to get all they can. I need #1 coil, from the replacement of the engine, it really looks like the module is 2 cylinders per.
I would LIKE to buy ONE coil, for the above mentioned 36 bucks that a 400 buck whatever.
With the prices I have seen so far, seems the best is to back to the yard that sold me the motor and buy ONE coil module, though some of you are saying that they are consumables, throw a couple in the trunk. I don't think many of you are buying a couple 400 buck modules to throw in the trunk.
Bsharp8,
Thanks. That doesn't do me a hell of a lot of good. Did you give me a web address to buy from them, would have been better. I am not coming that far.
I'll keep looking for a decent price near me.
Cheers,
George
Please allow me to direct you to reread my post. My HF scanner DID give me those codes.
That is why I am looking for the modules.
HF scanner allows me to reset the 'Puter to erase. I don't want to till I replace the coil module.
Would you?
To use the VAG Com cable and SW, I would have to run about 75 foot of CAT5 cable into the house to my main computer, or carry one outside.
I don't know if the prices I am seeing are because all they seem to have for sale are complete units, or because they simply want to get all they can. I need #1 coil, from the replacement of the engine, it really looks like the module is 2 cylinders per.
I would LIKE to buy ONE coil, for the above mentioned 36 bucks that a 400 buck whatever.
With the prices I have seen so far, seems the best is to back to the yard that sold me the motor and buy ONE coil module, though some of you are saying that they are consumables, throw a couple in the trunk. I don't think many of you are buying a couple 400 buck modules to throw in the trunk.
Bsharp8,
Thanks. That doesn't do me a hell of a lot of good. Did you give me a web address to buy from them, would have been better. I am not coming that far.
I'll keep looking for a decent price near me.
Cheers,
George
#22
12-01-2008, 08:55 PM
Well I am going to assume that you are a little cranky because your car is not right. Here is your link that you demanded.
http://www.forparts.com/
Have fun
http://www.forparts.com/
Have fun
#23
12-02-2008, 12:17 PM
George -- In answer to your question. -- Yes I would reset the codes and see if they return. Audis are famous for throwing a code without any real problem because they got up on the wrong side of the bed . I always reset them and see if they return BEFORE making any big investment in parts I may not need.
I can't help how far you place your puter from the vehicle. I happen to have a three desktops, and two laptops at home so getting one with the RossTech software near the vehicle is not a problem. The only issue I have is that the Bentley manual is on just one of the desktops so I have to sit in my home office when I want to lookup some techincal info... Maybe I should take a hint from you and get a 75 foot keyboard cable and 75 foot monitor cable so I can see the Bentley info while I'm in the garage.
There are many options when it comes to purchasing any Audi part.. The most expensive is the dealer, then comes local parts houses, followed by on-line and some Audi speciality guys. And the last is used from a reputable source. I use all except for the dealer -- Woops I lied - I used a dealer to make a key once. It took them three tries before one worked...
So chill out Bro -- just enjoy the challange of owning an Audi or get something like a Yugo or Ford...
I can't help how far you place your puter from the vehicle. I happen to have a three desktops, and two laptops at home so getting one with the RossTech software near the vehicle is not a problem. The only issue I have is that the Bentley manual is on just one of the desktops so I have to sit in my home office when I want to lookup some techincal info... Maybe I should take a hint from you and get a 75 foot keyboard cable and 75 foot monitor cable so I can see the Bentley info while I'm in the garage.
There are many options when it comes to purchasing any Audi part.. The most expensive is the dealer, then comes local parts houses, followed by on-line and some Audi speciality guys. And the last is used from a reputable source. I use all except for the dealer -- Woops I lied - I used a dealer to make a key once. It took them three tries before one worked...
So chill out Bro -- just enjoy the challange of owning an Audi or get something like a Yugo or Ford...
#24
12-02-2008, 11:54 PM
bsharp8,
Sorry, I did not think I was coming across as cranky. Sorry too that you think I "demanded" it. I would prefer to think I requested it.I thank you for the link, whether it finally does me any good or not. Hopefully it will, and for that I will thank you again.
NH,
I don't really think I have to reset the codes to see if it will throw the misfire again. I mean, when your engine bucks and farts, and the computer says you have a misfire, I think you can assume you really DO have a misfire.
After my mechs replaced my engine they told me it was missing like hell, I should buy a set of wires, 110 thou on the clock, and I don't know how old the wires are, I would prefer to replace the part that finally comes down to be THE problem rather than change parts *****-nilly till I hit the right one.
Wires, I have found, go for low of 85 bucks, to high over 250. Plugs, 69 cents to 20 bucks.
BTW, this is my 7th Audi. It is just my first that is SO electronic that the average mechanic will have problems with repairs. I did all my own repairs with prior machines. Now that I am crippled up, I can't do what I did then.
I am aware that parts cost more for these machines. I also know, from past experience, that if you shop, you will find parts to compare with US made vehicles, or Japanese vehicle owners will find they, too, can find lower prices.
Had you an American made car, you might find that a starter can cost you 300 bucks, an alternator 600. People who pay too much for parts usually don't search for a price on the parts.
That is why I posted in this thread. Mention of 36 bucks when the prices I had gotten via SMJ and Rock Auto were out of line. Check them out and tell me if I did not look far enough to find an individual module rather than the entire coil pack.
Oh, man, if I went downstairs to count the computers that still work that I don't use, I think I would get to 15. I only have 3 up here running. BOUGHT my first computer in about 18 years a while back, built all but my first. They are cheaper, today, to buy than to build, complete with LCD monitor.
NH,
To revisit this: "I always reset them and see if they return BEFORE making any big investment in parts I may not need."
I don't think for a moment that you are saying that if I clear the code it will stop missing, it is NOT the computer telling the cylinder to buck and fart. It is the cylinder bucking and farting that tells the COMPUTER there is a problem. Correct? If pushing a button on the scanner can repair the coil, or whatever else the problem is, I'll push on the button daily, maybe every time I get the buck and fart symptom.
I really thought that when the computer told you something was wrong, that was the part you should replace.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Cheers,
George
Sorry, I did not think I was coming across as cranky. Sorry too that you think I "demanded" it. I would prefer to think I requested it.I thank you for the link, whether it finally does me any good or not. Hopefully it will, and for that I will thank you again.
NH,
I don't really think I have to reset the codes to see if it will throw the misfire again. I mean, when your engine bucks and farts, and the computer says you have a misfire, I think you can assume you really DO have a misfire.
After my mechs replaced my engine they told me it was missing like hell, I should buy a set of wires, 110 thou on the clock, and I don't know how old the wires are, I would prefer to replace the part that finally comes down to be THE problem rather than change parts *****-nilly till I hit the right one.
Wires, I have found, go for low of 85 bucks, to high over 250. Plugs, 69 cents to 20 bucks.
BTW, this is my 7th Audi. It is just my first that is SO electronic that the average mechanic will have problems with repairs. I did all my own repairs with prior machines. Now that I am crippled up, I can't do what I did then.
I am aware that parts cost more for these machines. I also know, from past experience, that if you shop, you will find parts to compare with US made vehicles, or Japanese vehicle owners will find they, too, can find lower prices.
Had you an American made car, you might find that a starter can cost you 300 bucks, an alternator 600. People who pay too much for parts usually don't search for a price on the parts.
That is why I posted in this thread. Mention of 36 bucks when the prices I had gotten via SMJ and Rock Auto were out of line. Check them out and tell me if I did not look far enough to find an individual module rather than the entire coil pack.
Oh, man, if I went downstairs to count the computers that still work that I don't use, I think I would get to 15. I only have 3 up here running. BOUGHT my first computer in about 18 years a while back, built all but my first. They are cheaper, today, to buy than to build, complete with LCD monitor.
NH,
To revisit this: "I always reset them and see if they return BEFORE making any big investment in parts I may not need."
I don't think for a moment that you are saying that if I clear the code it will stop missing, it is NOT the computer telling the cylinder to buck and fart. It is the cylinder bucking and farting that tells the COMPUTER there is a problem. Correct? If pushing a button on the scanner can repair the coil, or whatever else the problem is, I'll push on the button daily, maybe every time I get the buck and fart symptom.
I really thought that when the computer told you something was wrong, that was the part you should replace.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Cheers,
George
#25
12-03-2008, 12:06 AM
bsharp8,
Again, thank you.
Would you like to look at this page, one of which you directed me to, because I "demanded" it, for a 36 buck coil?
http://oip.webwareauto.com/Catalog/CatalogResults.aspx
You have done me a great service, I think not.
Thank you anyway.
Cheers,
George
Again, thank you.
Would you like to look at this page, one of which you directed me to, because I "demanded" it, for a 36 buck coil?
http://oip.webwareauto.com/Catalog/CatalogResults.aspx
You have done me a great service, I think not.
Thank you anyway.
Cheers,
George
#26
12-03-2008, 12:30 PM
15 computers -- Wow so make one a garage puter and you'll save the cost of a 75 foot cable. LOL
as for code reset - I never said that it would fix the problem. I just said that -- Never mind--- I don't have time for this
Remember - The computer tells you that something is wrong and sends you in the general direction. Sometimes it is specific but other times it only tells you which system is causing a problem (Such as misfire, low secondary air flow, etc.) and it is your job to figure out which device is failing. The guys at Bentley make a book (now on CD) called a repair manual that gives you a step by step diagnostic tree to help you find the part that is causing the problem. But you still have to figure it out.. It's like a game --
as for code reset - I never said that it would fix the problem. I just said that -- Never mind--- I don't have time for this
Remember - The computer tells you that something is wrong and sends you in the general direction. Sometimes it is specific but other times it only tells you which system is causing a problem (Such as misfire, low secondary air flow, etc.) and it is your job to figure out which device is failing. The guys at Bentley make a book (now on CD) called a repair manual that gives you a step by step diagnostic tree to help you find the part that is causing the problem. But you still have to figure it out.. It's like a game --
#27
12-03-2008, 10:27 PM
NH,
Ha ha. I am laughing with you, not at you. If you saw my garage, you would see I would have to throw stuff out to get a computer INTO it. I don't do my own work anymore. Can't.
I did buy a scanner, found this misfire, # 1 cylinder, and a "4th gear ratio wrong" or some such.(That one is going to need explaining to me.)
Unbelievable. The level of electronics in this car and I have JUST 2 codes thrown. If it didn't buck and fart, and shifted a bit smoother, the computer tells me I have a perfect car. (Mind you, a VAG COM might throw 50 codes.)
I have the Audi on DVD. Can't get it to install in English. Opens in German, and I don't read that.
That aside, I might have got some remarks thrown my way but I don't really mind.
Haven't owned a Ford car since a 79, have owned Ford trucks, like them, never owned a Yugo, though that was nothing but a Renault 4, that had no dealership support, made in the former Jugoslavia, by people who had no experience in making cars.
Did know one guy at the steel mill who bought a Yugo at a police impound auction who drove 50 miles to work. Loved it, and bought hay and hauled it home to his farm inside the car. It was a little enclosed truck to him.
Cheers,
George
Ha ha. I am laughing with you, not at you. If you saw my garage, you would see I would have to throw stuff out to get a computer INTO it. I don't do my own work anymore. Can't.
I did buy a scanner, found this misfire, # 1 cylinder, and a "4th gear ratio wrong" or some such.(That one is going to need explaining to me.)
Unbelievable. The level of electronics in this car and I have JUST 2 codes thrown. If it didn't buck and fart, and shifted a bit smoother, the computer tells me I have a perfect car. (Mind you, a VAG COM might throw 50 codes.)
I have the Audi on DVD. Can't get it to install in English. Opens in German, and I don't read that.
That aside, I might have got some remarks thrown my way but I don't really mind.
Haven't owned a Ford car since a 79, have owned Ford trucks, like them, never owned a Yugo, though that was nothing but a Renault 4, that had no dealership support, made in the former Jugoslavia, by people who had no experience in making cars.
Did know one guy at the steel mill who bought a Yugo at a police impound auction who drove 50 miles to work. Loved it, and bought hay and hauled it home to his farm inside the car. It was a little enclosed truck to him.
Cheers,
George
#28
12-04-2008, 12:34 PM
I don't know which Audi CD you have - My Bentley CD is in semi- English. It looks like English - reads like English - but dosen't always make sense. I also have ETKA that shows a breakdown of all the mechanical parts in an Audi. When I put the two of them together and turn it around I get AKTE-yeltneB - the meaning of which I haven't a clue. But then I own an Audi and have had about 8 of them -so I have an excuse for being mental.
As for the Yugo - My son bought one on a dare. we quickly learned that the rear window heater was really a hand warmer for cold days. After the motor stopped running - due to a big hole in the side - we stuffed a motor from a VW GTI into it. Next the body fell apart - but it certainly made for fun conversations when we showed up at the local dragway for street night.
As for the Yugo - My son bought one on a dare. we quickly learned that the rear window heater was really a hand warmer for cold days. After the motor stopped running - due to a big hole in the side - we stuffed a motor from a VW GTI into it. Next the body fell apart - but it certainly made for fun conversations when we showed up at the local dragway for street night.
#30
12-06-2008, 08:32 PM
Hey George, did you find a reasonable coil pack yet? I'm really not sure what you are implying in your last response. It would seem you are saying that I didn't buy the coil for the amount that I stated or the link was no good. The store in the link is about 5 miles from my work and I purchased 2 coils from them for $36 each as I stated in the first place. I did not check to see where they ship to I just provided the link that you wanted. Anyway, if you are still looking for a coil pack, I will be happy to sell you mine at cost plus the cost of shipping; just to be a nice guy. I can buy as many as I want because they are very close to work. Just let me know and I can send you a pic of the coil pack if you like.
William
William