Audi A6 The mid-sized Audi A6 model offers more room to the driver and passengers over the A4 line.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

New 95 A6 owner

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-26-2011, 10:48 PM
jeepsteve92xj's Avatar
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI USA
Posts: 20
Default New 95 A6 owner

Hi.
I'm new to Audi and just got a pretty decent A6 sedan FWD, 2.8, automatic. I drove it past 166666 miles today.

First thing,
no owners manual.
I found one $85 on ebay and every URL I've tried has ended without good results. (fill shop manuals on CD or DVDs for less than $20 but owners manuals are like gold)

Mostly I need to understand more of the dash - probably questions I don't even know I have yet.

I'd like to know how to tell exactly which motor I have in order to get the correct oil filter and timing belt set and whatever other maintenance items I think of next.

I have a USB code reader for VW - I wonder if it will work on this Audi?

I'll install new front pads and an oil change this weekend - I can compare the filter once I get it out. I read that 5W-30 is the recommended.

Are there any suggestions of anything I should be watching for? Timing set, tranny oil and filter....

Steve
 

Last edited by jeepsteve92xj; 05-26-2011 at 10:53 PM.
  #2  
Old 05-27-2011, 12:49 AM
chefro's Avatar
3rd Gear
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: IL
Posts: 1,941
Default

Welcome to the forum, Steve. Congrats on your purchase.
Although I suspect you have an AFC engine, I inserted a pic showing you exactly where the engine code is etched on the block (directly below the "big ball" vacuum reservoir attached on the side of the PSteering Pump bracket)
Wxxxx84A2SNxxxxxx
That letter (number 8th character) will give you the car "VIN" needed when looking for parts.
-
I purchased mine @ 151k miles and am now @ slightly over 167k, practically rebuilding the engine - I wanted to.
The car had oil leaks and I didn't realize for a while - it was mostly the rear main seal.
If you have a VW reader, then probably it should be good for Audi as well- but you'll need a 2x2 adapter as our cars have pre-OBDII connectors.
.
The connectors are inside the relay box in the engine bay.
A manual you can find @ BentleyPublishers.com. I have one on DVD and although it isn't perfect (leaving a whole lot to be desired in terms of complete information and even illustrations at times) it helped me tremendously.
Thoughts about the car:
- Inspect your struts - destroyed belows may or may not be a tell-tell sign. I had to replace mine (so as others with 95-97 models).
- Inspect your differential - mine leaks so I need to change the flange seal
- The crankase ventilation on these cars is pretty crappy so expect to have your breather hoses becoming clogged every year or so.
- If you have valvetrain noises, even just for the start, then probably it is time to replace all the upper engine oil pressure valves - 4 (one in each head + 2 in the valley pan). Leaking valve cover gasket not long after you put new ones in will tell you exactly if you need to replace at least the ones in the heads.
- Expect to replace worn/weathered plastic parts. (I just replaced 3 different timing belt covers due to age-related cracking).
- Keep your plenum drain hole clean - it is located directly below the HVAC box
- If your car has an updated lubrication design (production from Aug-Sep 1994 up), then you'll need the long-life type of filter, which is typically of a larger capacity - ex: Mann
Audi part # 078 115 561J

-
-With the timing belt it is very WISE to replace at the same time the camshaft seals, the idler + tensioner roller, thermostat (although this CAN be replaced without removing the timing belt) and water pump.
- If it was never replaced, then expect to have problems in the near future with the heater core - although it depends greatly on the maintenance performed by the previous owners (type of coolant used throughout the years).
- Problem areas that can develop leaks: T-stat and Water Pump housings at the rear - the coolant lines coming into them are only "secured" by a rubber O-ring (pretty flawd design if you ask me). If you have pooled coolant on top of the valley pan cover (below the intake manifold), then you will know where to find your leaks.
Oil wise - cam seals, crank seal, rear main seal, valley pan gasket, upper oil pan gasket.
- The ignition switch may go bunkers on you...or it may not. I replaced mine because the key would not spring back after starting.
- If you do your own timing belt work, then do yourself a favor and purchase a cams locking bar (3242) and a crank locking pin (3243). You'll discover later on that you need to buy so many other tools as you start working on it, but these two are a MUST-HAVE if you plan on keeping the car.
-
Enjoy your new baby and happy Audi motoring.
 
Attached Thumbnails New 95 A6 owner-enginecode.jpg  
  #3  
Old 05-27-2011, 09:51 AM
jeepsteve92xj's Avatar
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI USA
Posts: 20
Default

Thanks for the info
Looks like the VIN says I have the "A" motor.
I havent had the covers off the motor yet, looks like they havent been removed in eons.
There is a bit of oil on the alternator.
I was suspecting valve cover gaskets, and now I know about the oil pressure valves. The motor seems pretty smooth and quiet.
I dont want to cluster-F the dash but I do want an oil PRESSURE guage. Ill see if I can find a small digital one maybe.
I have a set of front pads to install.

The VW code reader I have is a VAG-COM USB (not sure the software version) for use with a laptop. In the glove box is a patch wire that says it is for the diagnostics. I need to look into the 2x2 adapter.
On a long drive yesterday = 80 miles round trip, I did get a check engine light that was gone after a restart. I haven't tried to pull the codes yet.

10-4 on the waterpump and seals and other timing belt related bits and pieces.

Coolant appears to be blue.

There is nothing cobbled or jerry-rigged. not including extra wires for the aftermarkket stereo run to the trunk.
I haven't found the radio antenna yet - fenders, roof, I'm guessing it may be in the glass? - I'll have to pop the radio and make sure the lead is connected good. The station reception was poor on my drive.

Still need an owners manual. Analog clock: to set - someone said push or pull the instrument panel dimmer ****?
Whats the dificulty level of replacing a lamp in the climate control display - one side is lit, the other is not.
Gotta figure out the heat and AC controls for the girlfriend - seat heat she likes! Cool mornings she has no idea how to get the defogger working. End of May and it was 32°F when she got off work this morning!
What combination of things do I need to get the headlamp washers to operate?

I filled up with midgrade gas yesterday. The flap indicates 87 min. Here in WI we have either 87 or 85 min available at different locations, Highest I've seen is 93.
Fuel prices are high and I'm not towing or driving in mountains, so I can probably be find with the lower octane.

So much to learn on my new nearly 16 year old car. June is its birthday. lol
 

Last edited by jeepsteve92xj; 05-27-2011 at 01:31 PM. Reason: additional information VAG-COM
  #4  
Old 05-29-2011, 01:24 PM
chefro's Avatar
3rd Gear
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: IL
Posts: 1,941
Default

Coolant "should" be blue indeed; just make sure you locate a vendor that still has it and you can stock up on it as I understood it is out of production.
I switched to Zerex G05 - more widely available. Some people use the coolant sold by the VW dealers since it supposedly is cheaper than the Pento blue.
-
* Analog clock - pull and rotate the **** gently at the same time (just 15-20 degrees or so), then hold in that position until you reach the time to be set.
* Climate control display? - Probably the lamps are the soldering type. I haven't gotten inside that one yet - mine is fine, although I replaced recently a lot of lamps in the dash.
* I don't have headlight washers. Wouldn't know what to tell you.
* Same goes for heated seats. My peasantly car doesn't have that feature either.
*Handy Audi-approved OIL list
* Gas - I only use 91 or 93 octane in mine. The 10 or 20 cents per-gallon difference from 89 octane it only ammounts to $ 2-3 more per tank. Not worth the hassle to "save" a few bucks if I can keep it running as it should. It's your own call on gas.
 
  #5  
Old 05-29-2011, 07:41 PM
jeepsteve92xj's Avatar
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI USA
Posts: 20
Default

The analog set was right on.
the oil-change was a non-issue - the drain plug had been chiseled loose once so I straightened the sealing surface a bit. Installed a new WIX airfilter.

Besides ty-wraps holding the belly pan instead of screws, the only cobble job I found is the exhaust pipe joint behind the cats - appears that someone broke the studs and used small C-clamps to hold it shut - I'll go to the exhaust shop for that fix.

I spent a while vacuuming and blowing leaves and junk form the AC/Heat plenum area, and the upper trunk corners.
Still need to disassemble the deck lid to properly mount the license plate and there may be a bulb out.

May have found an owners handbook at a salvage yard search. Much cheaper than the $85 on ebay!
No line on a good price on the Bentley manual.


Anyone have sunroof switch experience? It takes several tries to get it to park near closed, then a hand push on the top.

How is the Audi dealer price for keys? Is there any other better/cheaper source for coded keys?
 
  #6  
Old 05-29-2011, 09:13 PM
ManyAudis's Avatar
1st Gear
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 311
Default

See this link for the temp display bulb replacement

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/58127.phtml

The VAG-COM you have will work but you will need the 2x2 adapter shown above. You can get one from Ross-Tech for about $50.

Climate control lamps as well as dash cluster lamps are available for a couple $$'s each from the dealer. They are easy to replace once you know the secret handshake for removing the CC. Just pop off the wood trim carefully with a screw driver or a plastic pry thingy. It is seems like it will break but it does pop off. Then you will see the 4 screws which remove the CC control unit. Once it is out unplug it and disassembly to the point where you can replace the bulbs is pretty easy.



Ditto on the diff seals, my 1995 S6 had that same leak.

Ditto also on the plenum drain. This gets clogged and then you get water in the passenger foot well which is also the location of the engine computer. As you can guess, this can be bad news.

On cars of this age the seat heaters have often failed. To turn them on spin the 0-6 dial on the center console. 0 is off, 6 is hot as hell. The are thermostatically controlled so they may not come on if the ambient temp is too warm. If they do not come on even on cold mornings then either the back or bottom heater has failed. They are in series so if either one fails neither will work. Get yourself a Bentley manual, they have a good debugging guide for tracking down which of the two heaters has failed. They can be replaced either by an upholstery shop or you can do it yourself. I did the seat bottom myself. Took about 3 hours.

Good luck with the car.
 
  #7  
Old 05-30-2011, 12:29 AM
jeepsteve92xj's Avatar
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI USA
Posts: 20
Default

I have ordered a 2X2 adapter,Much less than $50 and more than the copies coming from China.
I appreciate the climate control access information, Ive been looking for that titbit.

Heated seats are working - very toasty very quickly.
I did not see the plenum drains.
I think I did find sunroof drains in each front door hinge area. Or maybe those are for the plenum well?

There is no dipstick for the auto tranny?
 
  #8  
Old 05-30-2011, 09:06 AM
ManyAudis's Avatar
1st Gear
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 311
Default

The plenum drain is under the hood between the firewall and the windshield. There is a plastic cover that you must remove. Under the cover you will see all of he HVAC stuff. If I remember correctly the plenum drain is at the bottom of this are in front of the passenger seat (assuming a left hand drive car). That area gets filled with leaves and other debris.

The drains in the door are the sunroof drains. Check them also. And it is not a bad idea to blow out the AC drain but I think you need to do that from underneath, it is near the passenger foot well.

It has been about 8 years since I had that body style with an automatic but I thought it did have a dipstick located aft of the engine on the driver's side.
 
  #9  
Old 05-30-2011, 11:39 AM
chefro's Avatar
3rd Gear
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: IL
Posts: 1,941
Default

The plenum drain hole (my car only has one) is directly below the passage duct between the evaporator housing and HVAC box (see the insert)
-
There's no dipstick for the transmission. The fill-in is done anti-gravitational (or gravitational too can be done if you have a helper) via a hand pump.
As far as the sunroof rear drains, you can access them through the trunk (if you remove the carpeting - they're located in the wheel wells.
I can show exactly what I'm talking about if I can find the darn photos I use to have.
 
Attached Thumbnails New 95 A6 owner-31.jpg   New 95 A6 owner-20-pumpingin.jpg  
  #10  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:56 PM
jeepsteve92xj's Avatar
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI USA
Posts: 20
Default

I think I see the drain under the plenum, I'll get some air and water and verify its clear this weekend.

Still looking for Bentley and owners manuals - whats the recommended trans fluid for this automatic??
I found this - don't know if it a good deal or not:
http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F2A1003-B

Suggested seller for the timing belt and bits - maybe kit?

timing belt and associated bits, trans fluid and filter, front tires on my to do asap list
 


Quick Reply: New 95 A6 owner



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:46 PM.