New ride, and a few problems...
#11
12-15-2008, 02:05 PM
AH yes! You are in florida my friend! You don't have emmisions. Yes you can just remove the cats or what i would do is just gut them out because its part of the entire down pipe from the back of the cylinder head all the way down to the exhaust, so i would have someone pull the cats out, gut the inards, then re-install them. You will however have a check engine light from the rear O2 sensors, although there is a fix. You could either use non fouler O2 sensors or buy something to space the sensors away from the exhaust, keeping it from throwing a fault code. HELP is the company volkswagen guys use when they install catless downpipes. Check out the vortex forums for the correct part numbers. Thats what i would do.
P.S if the cats are bad it could cause a harder start concern and a power loss.
P.S if the cats are bad it could cause a harder start concern and a power loss.
#12
12-15-2008, 02:52 PM
I finally talked to the dealer and expressed my concern that they sold me a car without disclosing the problems that they knew existed. They asked me to find the cost of the repair. I'm going to give them the cost of the cat replacement, I guess I'm going to call the Audi dealer to find out what the cost is. This is a Lexus dealership, that is part of the Autonation dealerships. I've bought from them before, so hopefully they will do something. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
#14
12-15-2008, 03:26 PM
I'm going to call the local audi place....that vortex forum is a bit confusing...will a 2.7l cat fit on my 3.0? I know I'm being a newb....I need to learn more about my car but i'm still in the first week.
#15
12-15-2008, 03:34 PM
When on vortex search for a test pipe or downpipe CEL delete, that should find you the thread with the DIY. I used to have it saved on my favorites (cause i need to do it too) but i don't have it anymore. CincyTT should have the part numbers as he is a VW/audi nut.
As for the 2.7T cats, not even close, the 3.0L is a whole different beast. Not to mention its a hell of a lot harder to remove the cats on a 3.0L. I hate changing cats on 3.0L's.
As for the 2.7T cats, not even close, the 3.0L is a whole different beast. Not to mention its a hell of a lot harder to remove the cats on a 3.0L. I hate changing cats on 3.0L's.
#16
12-15-2008, 03:47 PM
When on vortex search for a test pipe or downpipe CEL delete, that should find you the thread with the DIY. I used to have it saved on my favorites (cause i need to do it too) but i don't have it anymore. CincyTT should have the part numbers as he is a VW/audi nut.
As for the 2.7T cats, not even close, the 3.0L is a whole different beast. Not to mention its a hell of a lot harder to remove the cats on a 3.0L. I hate changing cats on 3.0L's.
As for the 2.7T cats, not even close, the 3.0L is a whole different beast. Not to mention its a hell of a lot harder to remove the cats on a 3.0L. I hate changing cats on 3.0L's.
#17
12-15-2008, 04:32 PM
The word I got from the dealership is that they would probably take the car back instead of the 2800 dollar repair. Auditech, you were right on it! How would I find the cost of installing a "test pipe" with the proper o2 sensor mods to not throw a check engine light? Will a regular muffler shop do this? Thanks for all of the help.
#19
12-15-2008, 05:30 PM
No company currently makes a test pipe for the 3.0L, what you would need to do is take off the downpipes (not fun) and have the cats cut out or easier just use a pry bar and bang out all the material in the cat. If you had them cut out you would have to weld in a O2 sensor flange and its just too hard to do on the 3.0L downpipe, if you had it out of the car you would see what i mean. Just get it out of there, gut the cats, and get those spacers for the rear O2 sensors to eliminate the fault codes. Should also give you a couple horsepower bump.
To get the cats out however will take you forever! Not to mention you have to loosen the subframe and let the tranny and engine hang down just to get the cats out. You will need a small 13mm gear wrench to get at the top and bottom bolts. The only way to get at the top bolts are to get them from above the engine, taking out the air box on the passenger's side is a must, and taking out the cam sensors on the driver's side is a must. Once those are out you have to reach up from under the car and get the other two 13mm bolts out using your wrench. Then you should be able to get the cat out, you will see how much the tranny will have to be lowered in order to clear the frame. You also have to disconnect the O2 sensor connectors and cut the zip ties holding the wires. Of course if this is too much work, you can just install the spacers and be done with it.
To get the cats out however will take you forever! Not to mention you have to loosen the subframe and let the tranny and engine hang down just to get the cats out. You will need a small 13mm gear wrench to get at the top and bottom bolts. The only way to get at the top bolts are to get them from above the engine, taking out the air box on the passenger's side is a must, and taking out the cam sensors on the driver's side is a must. Once those are out you have to reach up from under the car and get the other two 13mm bolts out using your wrench. Then you should be able to get the cat out, you will see how much the tranny will have to be lowered in order to clear the frame. You also have to disconnect the O2 sensor connectors and cut the zip ties holding the wires. Of course if this is too much work, you can just install the spacers and be done with it.
#20
12-15-2008, 09:03 PM
No company currently makes a test pipe for the 3.0L, what you would need to do is take off the downpipes (not fun) and have the cats cut out or easier just use a pry bar and bang out all the material in the cat. If you had them cut out you would have to weld in a O2 sensor flange and its just too hard to do on the 3.0L downpipe, if you had it out of the car you would see what i mean. Just get it out of there, gut the cats, and get those spacers for the rear O2 sensors to eliminate the fault codes. Should also give you a couple horsepower bump.
To get the cats out however will take you forever! Not to mention you have to loosen the subframe and let the tranny and engine hang down just to get the cats out. You will need a small 13mm gear wrench to get at the top and bottom bolts. The only way to get at the top bolts are to get them from above the engine, taking out the air box on the passenger's side is a must, and taking out the cam sensors on the driver's side is a must. Once those are out you have to reach up from under the car and get the other two 13mm bolts out using your wrench. Then you should be able to get the cat out, you will see how much the tranny will have to be lowered in order to clear the frame. You also have to disconnect the O2 sensor connectors and cut the zip ties holding the wires. Of course if this is too much work, you can just install the spacers and be done with it.
To get the cats out however will take you forever! Not to mention you have to loosen the subframe and let the tranny and engine hang down just to get the cats out. You will need a small 13mm gear wrench to get at the top and bottom bolts. The only way to get at the top bolts are to get them from above the engine, taking out the air box on the passenger's side is a must, and taking out the cam sensors on the driver's side is a must. Once those are out you have to reach up from under the car and get the other two 13mm bolts out using your wrench. Then you should be able to get the cat out, you will see how much the tranny will have to be lowered in order to clear the frame. You also have to disconnect the O2 sensor connectors and cut the zip ties holding the wires. Of course if this is too much work, you can just install the spacers and be done with it.
wow, dropping the engine and tranny is way more than I'm going to be able to do in my garage. I'm going to go with the spacers....Thanks for the invaluable information.