Not so little-tiny things
#1
Not so little-tiny things
I bought my a6 2.7t with just over 100k on the engine and I have been pondering preventative maintenence things that might restore a little lost performance/give me peace of mind on the way to school. Some things I have been thinking of looking into
-EGT sensors (CEL)
-front o2 sensors (also CEL)
-n75 valve (What do you look for to find wear on these?)
-MAF (last owner had K&N, want to clean it first but thinking of wear)
-Wheel bearings and tie rod ends
-shocks
-after-run coolant pump sensor (the blue one instead of green)
-DV, I feel like mine are starting to go
-other small projects (HVAC lube, airbag module, dash cluster stuff...)
Any input on signs of wear/failure would be appriciated and advice on interval maintenence of these kind of parts is always welcome
-EGT sensors (CEL)
-front o2 sensors (also CEL)
-n75 valve (What do you look for to find wear on these?)
-MAF (last owner had K&N, want to clean it first but thinking of wear)
-Wheel bearings and tie rod ends
-shocks
-after-run coolant pump sensor (the blue one instead of green)
-DV, I feel like mine are starting to go
-other small projects (HVAC lube, airbag module, dash cluster stuff...)
Any input on signs of wear/failure would be appriciated and advice on interval maintenence of these kind of parts is always welcome
#3
I've read the stick but it doesn't mention shocks, the N75, or the wheel bearings. I was more interested in something to help me check the wear on some of the moving parts that see a lot of action. For instance, how do I know my N75 is working properly? I've never had another 2.7 to compare it with and I don't really have any benchmarks to measure it against (I am in the process of installing a boost gauge which will help me monitor such things)
#4
A bad N75 valve with throw a fault code, the shocks almost NEVER go bad unless you see one leaking, and that only happens if its been slammed.
You would know if a wheel bearing is bad because it would sound like driving around on a concrete wheel. You can always lift the car off the ground and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and shake it back and forth. If you feel or hear any play the bearing is on its way out.
I highly recommend buying a vag com www.ross-tech.com so you can do your own diagnostic work.
You would know if a wheel bearing is bad because it would sound like driving around on a concrete wheel. You can always lift the car off the ground and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and shake it back and forth. If you feel or hear any play the bearing is on its way out.
I highly recommend buying a vag com www.ross-tech.com so you can do your own diagnostic work.
#5
Vag com is on the to do list. I have a place just down the street that will scan the codes and give me the readouts for nothing so its not super top priority. If thats the case then I guess I am in good shape for all that stuff.
#6
Make sure you run Mobil1 0W-40 or equivalent so the turbos are well lubed. I have 165k+ plus on original shocks and always have them checked when my oil is changed. Same answer -- if they're not leaking and the car is not bouncing, they are fine. Also have run K&N for almost 100k and make sure it is well drained before installing to protect the MAF. Check your front axle covers -- mine did deteroriate and had to be replaced.
#7
mobil1 0-40 check. I am curious as to why everyone runs K&N air filters. The guy I bought my car from was using them and last tune up I just decided to ditch it and put in a conventional wix filter (when I worked in auto parts we sold wix and I recommend their filters). I feel that I would rather have well filtered air that doesn't slowly gum my MAF than 5% increase in airflow speed.
Since then, my front wheel has started clunking and I think this last snow storm was too much for me CA bushing to handle. Next this is front suspension I guess.
Since then, my front wheel has started clunking and I think this last snow storm was too much for me CA bushing to handle. Next this is front suspension I guess.
#8
Not everyone runs K&N. I suspect it is the exception rather than the rule. It does allow a little more airflow at the expense of more contaminants getting into the engine. And unless you drain the K&N real well, you can muck up your MAF. The only justification I have is that I installed the K&N at ~70k and it has worked fine for the last 95k miles. I usually clean and re-oil annually, so it saves me some money. I did not notice any performance or gas mileage improvement.
#9
maybe its just the demographic of an forum about tuning and car stuff. I suppose we are more likely to put in such a filter. I also think its interesting that people have found that adding those little cold air intakes does little for performance.
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