BTW I agree with Seafoam!

 

I will have to try the throttle body calibration and see what happens. I forgot to mention that I have done two seafoam applications over the last two months and it has not changed anything.

Also I do not have a VAG-com, although chasing this problem has made me strongly consider a purchase if there is not a resolution soon.

 

Why are you will to spend tons of $$$ on replacement parts, snake juice, etc and not $15.00 for a cable and DL the free RossTech software?

 

NH -
I know rosstech sells it for about $220. Are you talking about a 3rd party cable? Do you have a specifc brand you can recommend and where to buy from?

 

Something like this or is USB prefferable?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vag-C...#ht_2628wt_948

 

USB is better and more campatible. The same guy sell a USB version and that is what I have.

If you search this forum (aka do your own homework) there is a way to trick the trial version 409.1 to think that it is a full version.

 

sounds to me its more like a vapor lock could be evap canister or the vent in the gas cap could be clogged.

 

hsx - I see the post you are referring to. From my understanding, doesn't the Shareware version of 409.1 allow for all codes to be pulled?

histeel - Why would the vapor lock or canister be causing these problems? I've never heard of either. Would this require the part to just be replaced?

 

Have to agree with the vapor lock issue... after 5 minutes or so, your fuel rails will become 'heat soaked' turning the fuel in the rails into vapor. This was a common problem on carbureted motors back in the day. Modern motors use pressurized fuel which overcomes this 'cause the boiling point goes up with pressure (same reason your cooling system uses a pressure cap).

When you first start your and hear your fuel pump run for 1-2 sec, it is purging any vapor through a 'purge valve' and pressurizing your rails. This is usually handled by the Fuel Pressure Regulator now.

There is also a 'return valve' in the fuel pump designed to hold the pressure up while not running. You say you replaced the pump, so prolly not it.

Since you replaced the regulator, and had some improvement, I would double check its function (good is 3.8-4.2 bar, running) and make sure the vac line from the manifold is good/clear.

Use a fuel pressure tester to actually read the residual fuel pressure after 10 mins off (cold; 2.2 bar, warm:3.0 bar).

Next thing would be to check for leaks in the fuel system allowing the pressure to head to zero while sitting (allowing the fuel to boil) - check all hose/line connections and injector seals.

Check your gas cap for proper function.

Check the EVAP Canister Purge Regulator Valve (N80).

Double check the fuel pump and connections for leaks.

 

Shareware will pull all the codes, but will not give you descriptions on some codes. Also you can't run a full single button auto funtion, nor can you get logging... Not essential, but good to have.