Passanger side manifold leak
#1
Passanger side manifold leak
Hey guys,
So about 3k miles ago, i started to hear a "soft whine" when starting my car from a cold start, until the car heated up. I had it checked out, and they are saying that it is a small leak from my passanger side manifold.
I searched the forum, and no one has a thread about this issue (which suprised me). Has anyone ever had this issue? and what is the best way to go about taking care of it.
They said the only way to replace that manifold, was to drop the engine and it would cost me just under $2000. (I think thats complete BS).
Is there a way to easily patch a manifold leak once you find the leak location?
Thanks!
So about 3k miles ago, i started to hear a "soft whine" when starting my car from a cold start, until the car heated up. I had it checked out, and they are saying that it is a small leak from my passanger side manifold.
I searched the forum, and no one has a thread about this issue (which suprised me). Has anyone ever had this issue? and what is the best way to go about taking care of it.
They said the only way to replace that manifold, was to drop the engine and it would cost me just under $2000. (I think thats complete BS).
Is there a way to easily patch a manifold leak once you find the leak location?
Thanks!
#3
I would gladly help you with some information since I pulled out my manifold and changed all the gaskets, but you have a totally different beast. Mine is a 12V C4 (non-quattro; no turbos)
I don't understand though: why do you have to have the engine dropped to reach the manifold? Isn't the manifold in between the cyl heads, or each head has a separate manifold?
I don't understand though: why do you have to have the engine dropped to reach the manifold? Isn't the manifold in between the cyl heads, or each head has a separate manifold?
#4
It's probably the gasket not the manifold. If it is the manifold that would be surprising. If it is I would have it brazed.
I was thinking about mine a few days ago wondering if it wuold be easier to pull the head along with it so there would be more wiggle room. Chefro would have to chime in on that. 2.8, 2.7t, 3.0 they're all tight as hell.
I was thinking about mine a few days ago wondering if it wuold be easier to pull the head along with it so there would be more wiggle room. Chefro would have to chime in on that. 2.8, 2.7t, 3.0 they're all tight as hell.
#5
For the 2.8 I would, no problem. It is actually pretty easy after dismounting all the crap around (fuel rail, air box, throttle body -actually I pulled mine out with the TB on, ICV, ground cable, coil pack, etc)
Forgot to mention: unless you want to change the head gaskets, there's no need to pull the heads out. The manifold slips right up off the heads, but you gotta pay attention underneath to the EGR valve temp sensor....a little dinky thing.
Forgot to mention: unless you want to change the head gaskets, there's no need to pull the heads out. The manifold slips right up off the heads, but you gotta pay attention underneath to the EGR valve temp sensor....a little dinky thing.
Last edited by chefro; 08-24-2009 at 12:33 AM.
#6
On my 2000 2.7t, it LOOKS like the exhaust manifold would be a bear to take off with out at least lifting the motor. I too would expect that it is more likely to be a gasket. But... you can have exhaust leaks elsewhere. If you have a Tip you have a secondary Air Injection System. (2.7t's with manual trans do not have it. Lucky them!) I found the "adapter" under the right Combi valve was broken. That caused an exhaust leak... right next to my large oil leak from my valve cover!
OBTW, the Secondary Air Injection system only runs during a cold start until the engine warms up. The pump does make a whine that gets loader as the pump get older. (Sound familiar?) The pump is mounted on the rear top of the motor slightly to the left of center. It works like a 12v vacuum cleaner motor. Check to see if the run time on the pump matches your "soft whine."
OBTW, the Secondary Air Injection system only runs during a cold start until the engine warms up. The pump does make a whine that gets loader as the pump get older. (Sound familiar?) The pump is mounted on the rear top of the motor slightly to the left of center. It works like a 12v vacuum cleaner motor. Check to see if the run time on the pump matches your "soft whine."
#7
Talking with the stealership, they are saying that if the gasket needed to be replaced, then it calls for the engine to be dropped ($$$).
But I am gonna go ahead and pay the 117 to have them diagnose it. If it is indeed the gasket, then im gonna be lookin for a new car =/
Keep those fingers crossed!
But I am gonna go ahead and pay the 117 to have them diagnose it. If it is indeed the gasket, then im gonna be lookin for a new car =/
Keep those fingers crossed!
#8
Darn; now I really want to see a turbo engine.
What do you have, a 2.7T?
If it is the gasket, I would assume is the one in between the manifold and the cyl head. It has another gasket in between the upper and lower chambers, unless it is a diff type of manifold than on a 2.8L 12V.
Please keep us posted with the diagnostic.
What do you have, a 2.7T?
If it is the gasket, I would assume is the one in between the manifold and the cyl head. It has another gasket in between the upper and lower chambers, unless it is a diff type of manifold than on a 2.8L 12V.
Please keep us posted with the diagnostic.
#9
Have tried backing the bolts of and retighten them? The order would be different than normal with the one closest to the leak being first, then spiraling outwards. Works alot of times.
Other than that, there really should be some wiggle room to get the old one out and slip a new one in. The trick is to cut the gasket so it 'hangs' on partially started bolts (cut slots from the bolt holes down). I do this trick all the time.
Other than that, there really should be some wiggle room to get the old one out and slip a new one in. The trick is to cut the gasket so it 'hangs' on partially started bolts (cut slots from the bolt holes down). I do this trick all the time.
#10
before you spend $117 on a diagnosis that isn't worth crap. Why not try to find a euro mechanic elsewhere
you may find better news.
Or if you want send me $58.50 and I'll send you a diagnosis that the engine needs to come out for 2grand.
LOL I'm just kidding
but not reaLLY !
you may find better news.
Or if you want send me $58.50 and I'll send you a diagnosis that the engine needs to come out for 2grand.
LOL I'm just kidding
but not reaLLY !