u can pay me $400 and i;ll do it for you lol

 

You mean like this (to list one of many possible sources)?
http://blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F4A1026%2DB

Or were you referring to something else?

Actually, that's an artifact of the manufacturing process and is visible on most new joints. For example:
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/K600085212LOB.JPG

 

HI I Hve Read Some Of The Advice Of Other Members , i have a audi 80 1995, could any one please give me any instruction on how to chnage the cv joint ? as ive never done a cv joint before, if any one could give me any sort of instructions / adivce i will be very thankful .

Cheers, Gaz .

 

This article should be close enough for your purpose:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel58.shtml.
I just replaced the driver side axle on my 2000 A6 2.t Tip. The only problem I had was when re-torquing the pinch bolt on the top control arm. First time using my brand new torque wrench and I didn't know this one would keep on torquing after reaching the proper value.
So a word of advice: get a new pinch bolt as it should be replaced anyway, along with the nut. The torque values may be different with your model, so you may need to do a little research.
I decided to replace the entire axle ($120.00 at my local guy) rather than messing with the boot and what have you.
Lo and behold, all my strange whining noise at low speed and the vibration at freeway speeds are gone! The car feels so much smoother...

 

Is that the price for a new CV Joint?

 

That's definitely NOT the price for a new axle or joint. Hereabouts, I did buy reman half shafts a couple years ago for 49.99. This for a '90 100 FWD. When they, one, anyway, went bad, 2 1/2 years later, took the receipt back, lifetime warranty, they misheard me, ordered both of them and gave them to me no charge, except for the core charge.

Price, by then, had gone to 80 or 90 each. Regardless, paid the core deposit, had them replaced, took the cores back, got my money back.

Were I you, I would replace the joints. I have had 2, so far, break the cage and lose the *****. When that happens, you are dead in the water. You go nowhere. The bad joint has the axle spin in the joint.

The car I had the shafts replaced under the "Lifetime Warranty", had been clicking for a while. Careful on tight turns. (Had the cage break, you recall, stranded me.) One day, coming out of a curve and trying to straighten out, the joint "locked" on me. Basically, a bent axle. It was changing the camber angle of the wheel as it rotated, whipped the front end of the car back and forth.

That is probably the main reason that, in my state, at least, broken CV joint boots are grounds to reject a vehicle at annual safety inspection.

Labor for R&R of an axle are probably the same to replace the boot or replace the axle. You have to do all the same work, either job.

120 for a new joint is kinda like asking if you can buy a new car for $1,000 bucks. No, that is reman.

On the contrary, and this could be different today, I have bought outer CV joints separately in the past. '85 5000S Turbo, outer joint, Beck-Arnley, was well over 200 bucks.

It can be done at home. I have done it several times, once with a deadline. My daughter's Prom day, came home, turned into my driveway, popped the race, lost the *****, "Oh, NO, my PROM!" Ah, ****. Went to my parts guy, bought a joint, pulled it apart, had it back together in about 3 hours.

It IS a bit of a bitch of a job. Worth it. My kid gave me a hug, a kiss and "I love you, Daddy!"

Clean and lube your own joint, I think I recall that my repair manuals say that if you do disassemble, clean and reassemble your joint, it is important to keep all the ***** and the internal and external spiders matched.

Had I this problem, today, and were I doing it myself (I can't, any more.), I would definitely replace the half shafts, or the outer joints. Too much a pain in the *** to do stopgap work of replacing the boot, after cleaning and regreasing.

Cheers,

George

 

George, thanks much for the elaborate input.

I asked because I came across halfshafts priced at 85-90 (DSS/AUP ?), without beign specified what type they are. Also, specified remanufactured ones (Cardone) are at $ 67/piece, but they carry a $ 75-core charge. Not sure exactly how that works via mail/UPS/FedEx, but it sounds like a good deal. Probably after shipping charges to send the "core" back, the whole deal ends up the same, around 90 bucks.


I agree that you might as well change the halfshaft altogether, since you pry the assembly open anyway.
I tried a snap-on type of boot (you have to glue it together the same time you snap it tight) on a different car and the glue (which came in the kit) poked a hole in the boot...was like pouring acid on it; really strange....just wasted money.

Thanks again.


P.S. Are you from Bulgarian/Russian descent?

 

I usually replace the complete axel with a rebuilt one for around $125 after I return the core.. That way I get two new boots (inner and outer)

 

Yes it was a brand new unit, and there was no core charge.
I am a happy camper!

 

chefro,

1st AND second gen American of Serbian descent. Dad came here over 100 years ago, mother born here a year after her mother came over, both from Serbia. Austria-Hungary, in those days, part of the Empire.

Funny thing, core charge. When I bought the first re-mans, price was 49.99, core was 60 bucks.

Have a pair in the trunk from the car I bought, new inspection, 6 months ago. 2 weeks, engine went. Warranty, but, when they had it on the lift, long time broken boots, melted converter, unhooked O sensor, pressure to get the dealer and inspection station to pay for the repairs.

Their cores, they are out the core charge, and I'll take them back to drop off some day soon. Actually, I could use the trunk space, and they cost gas to haul around.

Cheers,

George