thanks devil, I'll be sure to take picture and post them for other noobs (like me) to check out..

 

I just welded the swivel end of my clamp and it twists right back in.

 

So rather than follow all of the great advice here, I went and invented my own way of turning/pushing the rear piston in. I use a combination of a large c-clamp and a vice grips pliers. First I put the c-clamp on and tighten it down. Then I clamp the vice grips around the edges of the piston. Then I give the vice grips a turn...tighten the clamp slightly...then turn again...and repeat. This worked great for me. It helps if your vice grip's teeth aren't too worn down.

I like Jackmup's idea of welding the rotating part of the clamp to the screw. That sounds like it should work as well.

Thanks for all the knowledge-sharing out here. It's a huge timesaver.

Don

1995 A6 2.8 258000 miles

 

I really hope you didnt put teeth marks on the piston?

 

I just did this last weekend. I tried the C clamp and it did not work for me. Autozone lended me the tool and it worked like a charm. I had to pay a deposit and got my deposit back after I returned the tool.

 

Are there wear sensors on the back pads? My wear sensor light keeps coming on my but my front brakes look fine? My backs need to be done for sure...

 

German cars only have wear sensors on the fronts, which wear the fastest.

 

If you want the special tool for it you can go to AutoZone. I've reset the piston myself just using a C-Clamp and a wrench or pliers with good solid grip. You just have to make sure the clamp is always pushing on the piston.

This is for my '97 A6 Quattro by-the-way.

 

The funny part about that is I've went through 2 rear brake pads on the back, and I'm still on the same front pads. But that's partly becuase my E-brake siezed up and was engaged which wore the crape out of the driver back pad.

 

By the way:
I don't know if I may need it or not for my C4's rear calipers, but I found the tool at AutoZone for $ 12.