Hi All,

I feel that the ride on my 2004 Audi A6 Avant Quattro Wagon is too rough. Sometimes after hitting a bump, I feel a rattle or bounce. I know the roads in my area are not racetrack quality. My trusted car guy told me that changing the shocks would make the ride more hard. (For example, I saw "better ride than stock" and thought about upgrading.)

I also checked and I don't think I have the sport suspension:

My code is "1BH" which I understand means "suspension/shock absorption, standard 2" -- which I don't think is sport.


So, I thought I'd have my GF take the car for a drive and I would film from the backseat. First, I checked the air pressure in all four tires (P235 92H) was 32 psi. [Although I see it could be up to 35psi, but I think this would make my problems worse.]

I tried a few different vantage points: (held against the top of passenger side headrest, held against the ceiling, and tucked in the corner of the headrest and the seat to reduce vibration.)

Have a look, and let me know what you think -- is it too rough? If so, what can be done to address it?

top of headrest:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jv7-O4fMnRY

top of headrest:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uofgRezzuJ4

held at ceiling:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkpicnRLoMM

corner of headrest:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_wcTa_ABkY

Thanks!

AS

Edit: This is the 3.0L model.

 

Well from what the camera is showing I'd say this does appear quiet rough for an Audi. I couldn't quiet figure out the rattling you where talking about but you might want to make sure that nothing is lose when you lift the car or put it on jack stands (under body cover? exhaust loose?). Also when you hear that rattle does it appear to come from the outside or inside?

Anyhow I just upgraded my entire suspension and invested quiet a bit of money. For details check this out: https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=169788.
I still haven't gotten around of uploading pictures but I can add a little bit of information for you in your case.
I just got my car into the shop because of a recall and had the chance to drive in a 2008 a6 wagon shuttle home (as a passenger only) and I could feel all the bumps and potholes which felt really rough. compared to my new struts and control arms that shuttle car was a joke.
I definitely recommend new control arms and struts and you will feel like you almost bought a new car. Just make sure you do your research on the parts you want since not all the results are as the manufacturer claims.

 

Hi Sheldon,

Just got back from the fireworks.

Thanks for your input. I suspect that the shake I wrote about earlier mainly occurs when I hit a big bump -- like the car takes 4 oscillations before it's back to normal. I'll try to take a movie of that as well and post back here. I saw from your thread that you went with Koni FSD Struts/Shocks and Billstein Control arms. Are both components necessary in your view? I had no idea that changing the control arms could improve the ride quality. Are you happy with the manufacturers? Would you suggest any others? The FSD feature seems like something quite high-tech.

Thanks -- you help is greatly appreciated.

 

I could say that the clips portray a hell of a rough car to ride in.
You definitely have something in that suspension that shows it aged x 7yrs.
If the thuds occur without any wheel vibration, then most likely you got shot struts.
If the thuds occur with some wheel vibration, then you'll have to also inspect all of the rubber components (bushings) you can find on the control arms. I'm not a mechanic, but the true mechanics in here can probably confirm/infirm that.
-
As related to that Blau kit, I highly doubt that by purchasing it you'd get an "upgrade". Being there, done that.
My struts were all shot and definitely was a 100% improvement, but I really don't think it was for my C4 an "upgrade" from stock ride. The non-quattro price for the kit ($ 290) was definitely the seller. Plus someone else installed previously the same kit.
Maybe he can chime in as well (Jim- "Midniteoyl")
If you have money to spend, then definitely go with a better brand setup, as sheldon went for.
That's just my opinion.

 

Well I thought if I upgrade all the stuff why not go with big names and reputation right away instead of wasting just half the money for some brand that I might end up not appreciating enough.
Anyhow I researched and looked all over the place for these parts and I'm not sure everyone would agree they are worth the price I paid but I'm very happy with it.
The Koni FSD struts work like any other struts when it comes to the installation. But supposedly they far superior compared to the OEM struts. I can't really say since I haven't had a chance to drive this or any other brand new car to compare it to. But comparing them to my old ones they beat them easily. Also they come with lifetime warranty if they start leaking, they replace them.

Control arms are quiet important and can make a worlds difference in car handling and road feeling. If the bushings are busted, the car will not feel safe on the road and might even add up on to the vibration and wobbly steering control.
New struts and control arms all around will make the car straighten out in milliseconds after hitting a bump or pothole, steering will be smooth as butter but very precise at the same time. Also curves on the road will be fun again, the car becomes stiffer and feels more secure like you are still in control (to a certain limit of course, lol - no one can beat physics).

All in all I think I picked the right brands and spend enough money to be happy.

 

Another video -- taken by hand:

‪P1040253.MOV‬‏ - YouTube

Highlights at 0:30-0:36, 0:50-1:05 and 1:44-1:52.

 

Quick update:

I took a car to a tire place because of a slow leak, and saw that they were putting new struts on a VW, so I inquired about my car.

The guy said that mine are not abnormally leaking, but then when off the hydraulic jack, he pressed on the front of the car -- and said, "your car has the ride of an old caddy! Just look at how the back end moves when I press on the front. When you hit a bump the whole car probably floats."

Can one evaluate the suspension by just pressing on the front of the car?

 

I don't see how you can still doubt the fact that your struts and probably your control arms are busted.
I am no mechanic but I can see how you can partially test the struts by pressing the front or rear of the car and see how it behaves. Normally you would compress the struts and see how fast the car settles (which should be almost instant). Also Struts should not be leaking period (that is if they are in working condition).

I still recommend going online, buying the parts you need and getting them installed by a trustworthy mechanic or DIY if you have enough ambition / experience.
If you consider spending the big bucks, check my thread out again and get the upgraded version but be prepared for some intense labor (I have all the web links and names of the stuff I got in there).

If you don't get a complete Strut kit, make sure you get all the extra's you need (bump stops, mounts, sleves).

 

"
How the heck could a weathered/experienced mechanic make that affirmation without actually driving the car?
Just as Sheldon said, when pressing down over the strut the rebound should be virtually instantaneous, not "bouncy" as "an old Caddy". And even then, that's not an accurate test about the actual condition of the strut.
As far as a leak, there should be no leak whatsoever - period. The mechanic's remark implied that there's a such thing as "normal leak" when it comes to struts.
I would say drive the car as it is until you get really fed-up with it, or just take it to a different shop, specializing in suspension.
If the struts don't do their part, then the other suspension components will wear out as well due to extra stress. you'll soon start to regret letting the problem linger for too long.

 

Thanks for all the input guys -- it is very much appreciated.

I took a movie of the "old caddy" "floating" while pressing on the front end.

‪P1040262.MOV‬‏ - YouTube

In the video, I am pressing the whole time, and it does stop bouncing after one or two oscillations (not five or six). However, I also pressed down on a couple of nearby Hondas -- and in those cars, there was virtually no give and no bounce. It was quite a contrast.

I want to update the shocks/struts (and perhaps the control arms), however, when I last asked my go-to mechanic about it, he said something like, "if the shocks are shot, then you'd know it and not have to ask." He didn't test drive it. The trouble is that this is my first used car, and I only suspect that I need to update.

Given the "old caddy" nature of my suspension -- perhaps what I think of as excess bumpiness is caused by the shocks being too loose -- as opposed to being too hard!

Thanks again!