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Seized Turbo - DIY Replacement

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  #1  
Old 07-25-2009, 10:23 AM
Eric_C's Avatar
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Default Seized Turbo - DIY Replacement

I bought my A6 with 97K on it and a brand new set of factory turbo's. Car was chipped by VAST a few days after I bought it and have had no problems.

A few weeks ago I started to hear an odd noise from under the car. On the cold start when I first got into the boost I'd hear a slight buzz noise. I have no underbody shield and at first I didn't pay too much attention to it. With the new air filter I put in the turbo's were way louder so wasn't sure if I was hearing something new or something bad.

Car drove fine and I've put 30K on it since having it chipped last year. I drive a lot, and I drive it hard.

So yesterday get on the freeway, WOT and just before redline there is a screech noise and no boost. I dropped by VAST and they checked everything out...most likely a seized turbo although last year when I did the clutch I checked the endplay and they seemed fine but with the Rs4 clutch I drove it even harder

I'll pull the DP's and see which one is bad but I've heard, and was even told this by VAST it can be done dropping the sub frame.

Driver side looks very easy, passenger side tougher but I am pretty sure its the driver side.

Anyone done it? Have a hoist and a few axle jacks so I can move the subframe around pretty well.

I think it can be done just looking to see if anyone has yet.

Anything I should check while doing it. I read Audi re-routed the turbo oil feed lines in later years, was that a reliability upgrade?

Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 07-25-2009, 07:22 PM
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I'd say its best to replace both and its an engine out procedure. I'd get a couple other opinions before settling on a bad turbo.
 
  #3  
Old 07-26-2009, 09:36 AM
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Well I'll know for sure when I pull the downpipes but I have little doubt its a bad turbo.

The driver side turbo is making all kinds of bad noises. It will not spool at all and when it tries there is a warbling/groaning noise. Passenger side spins right up.

I'm still questioning the requirement to take the engine out. There is a lot of room when you drop the sub frame, I did it when I did the trans.

I'm finishing up my wife's A4 rack and pinion today and I'll put it up in the air and check but I want to know for sure before I start tearing the car apart.
 
  #4  
Old 10-15-2009, 06:45 PM
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Did you ever do the turbo replacement? My A6 needs turbos now, and I really don't want to pull the engine if I don't have too. Were you able to do the turbos from below by pulling the subframe off? I've seen this as an option in several threads, especially with an A6, but no one has really ever confirmed nor denied that it's doable..

-GNZtH01

Tornado Red 2.7t 2000 A6
 
  #5  
Old 11-17-2009, 08:37 AM
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I have the same issue, I pulled the intercooler hose from the turbo and it had a few ounces of oil in it, so i am pretty sure my turbo is going to go soon. Any luck on dropping the subframe out of the way to change them? Ive also heard something about moving the transmission to be able to reach it. Even if i had to strip all the parts in the way, (airbox, ABS module, Coolant tank etc) i think it would be faster than pulling the whole motor.

Can anyone confirm or deny?
 
  #6  
Old 11-18-2009, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Audi 2000 a6 2.7T
I have the same issue, I pulled the intercooler hose from the turbo and it had a few ounces of oil in it, so i am pretty sure my turbo is going to go soon. Any luck on dropping the subframe out of the way to change them? Ive also heard something about moving the transmission to be able to reach it. Even if i had to strip all the parts in the way, (airbox, ABS module, Coolant tank etc) i think it would be faster than pulling the whole motor.

Can anyone confirm or deny?
DENY!

I just finished this job a week ago. We ended up pulling the motor and tranny out as one unit. Even with the motor out and sitting on a cart, the the job is hard. The only really bad part about pulling the motor is that the AC line has to be disconnected. Didn't have to touch the ABS module though, so no need to bleed the brakes. Passenger side exhaust manifold did have to come off though, even with the engine out. Make sure you get a turbo install kit, and have plenty of time. I think it took me about 40 hours start to finish, though I did the timing belt and some other little things as well.
 
  #7  
Old 11-18-2009, 10:51 PM
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Default I've done it before....not an easy task

A friend of mine bought K04's for his A6 6speed and we managed to replace the turbos with the engine in. Its really tough to do and if I had to do it again (which we are going to...) I would pull the engine and tranny out. Its much much easier than to struggle for 16 hours to replace those things with the engine in. Just front, lines/connectors on top, axles, driveshaft, 4 exhaust bolts, and a few subframe bolts and everything comes out nice an easy.
 
  #8  
Old 11-19-2009, 08:54 AM
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Well, how did you just remove the turbos with the engine in? I know you said you would rather pull it out if you did it again. But i think woudl rather spend 16 hours fighting it in and out as opposed to 40 hours to remove and replace the whole motor.

Pohsib, did you pull them from under the car or remove the bolts and extract them out the top?

Im pretty mechanically inclined and i have removed and replaced a motor in a honda prelude, so i feel capable. But i just have the impression that pulling the motor on my A6 might be more of a headache and easier to mess up.
 
  #9  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:55 AM
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I just don't see how it's possible to do this with the engine in. Even with the subframe off, you can barely see the little bastards... How do you get to both coolant, and both oil lines off, and back on, with new washers/gaskets and make sure they are tight? How do you get the exhaust manifold off with the engine in the car?

People say they've R&R'd em in car, so it must be possible, but like I said, even with the engine out, and sitting on a cart, the job is hard.


GNZtH01

'00 Tornado Red A6 2.7T
 
  #10  
Old 11-20-2009, 11:00 AM
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It's really no different then pulling any other motor, other then the entire front end must come off, because you pull straight out, instead of up and out. Just label all hoses and electrical contectors. Don't even have to get real discriptive, H1 goes to H1, E1 goes to E1, etc.

GNZtH01

'00 Tornado Red A6 2.7T
 


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