Temp guage question
#2
RE: Temp guage question
Hi. Are you refering to water or oil temp? Either way it depends on a couple of circumstances. The first will be what is the outside ambient air temp and the other is the load you put on the engine as you drive. Its not good to drive a car when the engine has not had sufficient time to warm to normal operating temperature. And it is very hard on the engine to drive it hard before allowingit to warm. We should all keep in mind that the lubricants in our cars are designed to work at ceratin temps and theengine and drivetrain themselves... because metal does expand and contract, are at their most efficient when all of the metals and lubricants are at optimum temp.I always allow my carto idle for at least 5 minutes in the summer months and anywhere from 7 to 10 minutes in the winter, escpecially when the outside temp is at or below freezing. Even after letting the car idle for this short time, I still resist the urge to drive the car hard until both water and oil temps are at their optimum. (oil At or above 150 degrees, water about 180 degrees...just about center on the temp gauge.
A lot of people say that this warm-up is unecessary, but I feel thatthey are reducing the realiability of their cars when they drive them cold. And believe it or not, you don't burn all that much fuel letting the car warm for a short time before actually driving. Hopefully this helps
A lot of people say that this warm-up is unecessary, but I feel thatthey are reducing the realiability of their cars when they drive them cold. And believe it or not, you don't burn all that much fuel letting the car warm for a short time before actually driving. Hopefully this helps
#3
RE: Temp guage question
The reason I ask the question is because my coolant light keeps coming on even though I'm not running hot and the level is fine.
I just had timing belt and other work done to the car at an independent mechanic. They replaced the sensor and the light still comes on so they said I needed to carry to dealership 45 minutes away. After research I read a little about air pockets and the need to bleed the coolant system.
I went out to the car a minute ago the car is cold and the outside temp in my covered spot is72 degrees. I did the following...
*Removed coolant reservoir cap
*Started the Car
*let the car idle for20 minutes (after about 10 minutes I reved it up to 1800-2000 rpm for a minute)
The water temp had barely moved at the 10 minute mark by 20 minutes of running it had moved about to the half way mark.
The Oil temp at 10 minutes of idle had not moved at all but by 20 minutes it had moved but only to175.
Any idea what could be happening?
I just had timing belt and other work done to the car at an independent mechanic. They replaced the sensor and the light still comes on so they said I needed to carry to dealership 45 minutes away. After research I read a little about air pockets and the need to bleed the coolant system.
I went out to the car a minute ago the car is cold and the outside temp in my covered spot is72 degrees. I did the following...
*Removed coolant reservoir cap
*Started the Car
*let the car idle for20 minutes (after about 10 minutes I reved it up to 1800-2000 rpm for a minute)
The water temp had barely moved at the 10 minute mark by 20 minutes of running it had moved about to the half way mark.
The Oil temp at 10 minutes of idle had not moved at all but by 20 minutes it had moved but only to175.
Any idea what could be happening?
#4
RE: Temp guage question
It sounds to me as if you still have air in the cooling system that needs to be bled. Here is the proper procedure:
First, you need to loosen the hose at the heater core connection. There is a small bleeder hole that should be exposed once you have the hose pulled back a couple of inches. Once this bleeder hole is exposed, top off the coolant tank (expansion tank)until coolant begins to flow from this hole and then resecure the hose to the heater core connection...tighten the clamp.
Second, loosen the bleeder screw on the rear coolant line located below the coolant tank(expansion tank), top off the tank again, until coolant begins to flow fromthe bleeder screwand then tighten it back.
Third, loosen the bleeder screw on the front coolant line located between the power steering pump and the left cylinder head. Fill the coolant tank (expansion tank) again until coolant flows from the bleeder screw and then tighten it back. Make sure afterwards that the coolant tank (expasion tank) is filled to the "Max" mark and tighten its cap.
Last once all of this is done, you need to ensure the coolant in the coolant tank (expansion tank) is at the full (Max)mark and start the car. Set your heater tomaximum and letthe car run for 10 minutes. Run it at around 2000 rpm for the last5 minutes. Let it idle and check the water temp gauge (should be in normal range)and also the lower radiator hose at bottom of radiator. This hose should be warm....ensuring that the thermostat opened. If so, shut the car down and make sure to again top off the coolant tank (expasion tank) if needed. It should now be filled to the "Min" mark.
I know its a sounds complicated....but it isn't, although it isa bit time consuming. If everythig goes ok, your gauge should be ok (normal)and the low coolant indicator lightshould go out. Just be sure and keep tabs on the engine temp for at least a day. Also check the coolant level again after the car has completely cooled and make sure you have no leaks....Good Luck!!!
First, you need to loosen the hose at the heater core connection. There is a small bleeder hole that should be exposed once you have the hose pulled back a couple of inches. Once this bleeder hole is exposed, top off the coolant tank (expansion tank)until coolant begins to flow from this hole and then resecure the hose to the heater core connection...tighten the clamp.
Second, loosen the bleeder screw on the rear coolant line located below the coolant tank(expansion tank), top off the tank again, until coolant begins to flow fromthe bleeder screwand then tighten it back.
Third, loosen the bleeder screw on the front coolant line located between the power steering pump and the left cylinder head. Fill the coolant tank (expansion tank) again until coolant flows from the bleeder screw and then tighten it back. Make sure afterwards that the coolant tank (expasion tank) is filled to the "Max" mark and tighten its cap.
Last once all of this is done, you need to ensure the coolant in the coolant tank (expansion tank) is at the full (Max)mark and start the car. Set your heater tomaximum and letthe car run for 10 minutes. Run it at around 2000 rpm for the last5 minutes. Let it idle and check the water temp gauge (should be in normal range)and also the lower radiator hose at bottom of radiator. This hose should be warm....ensuring that the thermostat opened. If so, shut the car down and make sure to again top off the coolant tank (expasion tank) if needed. It should now be filled to the "Min" mark.
I know its a sounds complicated....but it isn't, although it isa bit time consuming. If everythig goes ok, your gauge should be ok (normal)and the low coolant indicator lightshould go out. Just be sure and keep tabs on the engine temp for at least a day. Also check the coolant level again after the car has completely cooled and make sure you have no leaks....Good Luck!!!
#7
RE: Temp guage question
Yes, it is. Never think ofany questionas a dumb question....If you don't know, there's anything wrong with asking. The hose you need to get to, toaccess the bleeder hole for the heater core is locatedin the engine bay, at the back of the engine and goes in through the firewall there. If you're looking down from the top of the engine at the back, you should be able to see the heater core hoses. The bleeder hole is on the hose on the passenger side of the car (left side if facing the car head on).
#9
RE: Temp guage question
Still having trouble finding the proper hoses to find the bleeder valves. I took a few pictures if maybe they will help someonepoint out where they are.
Looking down on the engine.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00877.jpg
Just behind the first wall
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00889.jpg
close up looking toward the wall, behind the reservoir
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00888.jpg
Under the reservoir
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00886.jpg
From the drivers side quarter panel looking at the reservoir
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00885.jpg
From the passenger side quarter panel
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00884.jpg
Under the reservoir, closer look
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00881.jpg
Looking down on the engine again
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00879.jpg
Looking down on the engine.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00877.jpg
Just behind the first wall
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00889.jpg
close up looking toward the wall, behind the reservoir
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00888.jpg
Under the reservoir
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00886.jpg
From the drivers side quarter panel looking at the reservoir
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00885.jpg
From the passenger side quarter panel
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00884.jpg
Under the reservoir, closer look
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00881.jpg
Looking down on the engine again
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...p/DSC00879.jpg
#10
RE: Temp guage question
Hi. If you look at the second pic you posted, between your battery and the master cylinder for the brakes you should see two hoses than run through the firewall to the inside of the car. The hoses to the heater coreshould be positioned just under your passenger side wiper blade connection. The bleederhole for the heater core should be on the lineclosest to the passenger side of the car. You will need to loosen the hosen and slip it back (off) to see the bleeder hole under it.
The front and read coolant lines are located in the places I described earlier. You will be able to see them more clearly by unbolting and moving the expansion tankand probably the black plastic cover around the power steering fluid resovoir. I believe that these two bleeder screws have small hexagon or allen head bolts.Try this and see if it helps.
The front and read coolant lines are located in the places I described earlier. You will be able to see them more clearly by unbolting and moving the expansion tankand probably the black plastic cover around the power steering fluid resovoir. I believe that these two bleeder screws have small hexagon or allen head bolts.Try this and see if it helps.