Timing belt tensioner failure
#1
Timing belt tensioner failure
My audi 2.7 is making some strange noises coming from the timing belt I believe. It sounds like the belt is slapping the plastic cover. I have removed the timing belt and found no parts that are worn, but the belt was very loose on the top side of the pulleys. I am leaning toward tensioner failure. Is this a common problem the car has 170000 and the belt and tensioner was changed about 50000 miles ago. Thank god i made it home with out the belt slipping.
#2
Tensioner failure would be pretty obvious to spot as you would be able to move the tensioner idler by hand if it failed completely. The tensioner is composed of three pieces: the damper, the transfer arm, and the idler. These are found to the left of the crank and up about two inches. Are you able to move the tensioner idler by hand?
If your tensioner went and you made it home / didn't throw any codes, you should consider playing the lottery as soon as possible because you're very lucky.
If your tensioner went and you made it home / didn't throw any codes, you should consider playing the lottery as soon as possible because you're very lucky.
#3
Tensioner failure would be pretty obvious to spot as you would be able to move the tensioner idler by hand if it failed completely. The tensioner is composed of three pieces: the damper, the transfer arm, and the idler. These are found to the left of the crank and up about two inches. Are you able to move the tensioner idler by hand?
If your tensioner went and you made it home / didn't throw any codes, you should consider playing the lottery as soon as possible because you're very lucky.
If your tensioner went and you made it home / didn't throw any codes, you should consider playing the lottery as soon as possible because you're very lucky.
#4
Tensioner failure would be pretty obvious to spot as you would be able to move the tensioner idler by hand if it failed completely. The tensioner is composed of three pieces: the damper, the transfer arm, and the idler. These are found to the left of the crank and up about two inches. Are you able to move the tensioner idler by hand?
If your tensioner went and you made it home / didn't throw any codes, you should consider playing the lottery as soon as possible because you're very lucky.
If your tensioner went and you made it home / didn't throw any codes, you should consider playing the lottery as soon as possible because you're very lucky.
#5
If you turned the crank with the timing belt without tension like that, you have run into the risk of messing with the timing. You really won't know until you turn the car back on and at that point it'll be too late, obviously.
I'd seriously caution you to verify the timing is correct prior to you starting this engine again for the first time after putting the new belt and tensioner on.
Better safe than sorry, right? Let us know if you need more help.
I'd seriously caution you to verify the timing is correct prior to you starting this engine again for the first time after putting the new belt and tensioner on.
Better safe than sorry, right? Let us know if you need more help.
#6
update changed the tensioner this weekend, started the old girl up tonight with complete success. I will not buy any more timing parts from blauparts, tensioner only lasted 40000 miles, and the cheap serpantine belt had cracks in it in less than 4 months,cheap thermostat o ring leaked from day 1 Don't buy this useless junk.
#7
It's really hit or miss when it comes to that stuff. I guess there are some things you can go aftermarket on, and other things that you should really pay the extra money and go OEM. Glad to hear you were able to start it up without issues.
#8
Like everybody else on this forum I like reading and learning about these cars from forum members that own them. I hate being the pushy sales guy but believe I can help on the OEM parts. You guys all know the parts you should (in some cases have no choice) use OEM for, and the ones that are an alternative brand that work well.
For that reason and from the posts above, this is a good opportunity to price out the Audi OEM parts for the 2.7 basic belt job, at internet discounted prices off retail.
Cam belt 078-109-119-J retail 77.00, sale price 57.29
roller for belt 078-109-244-H retail 84.00 sale price 62.50
tensioner for cam belt 078-109-243-S retail 120.00 sale price 89.28
tensioning damper 078-109-479-E retail 228.00 sale price 169.63
water pump 078-121-006-AX retail 127.20 sale price 94.64
I know these prices may still be higher than some of the other brands that people have had good luck with. I look at it like over the course of the 60-75 or higher (depending on the engine) thousand miles you drive the car, the extra amount paid is minimal for the peace of mind you get.
I appreciate the time you took to read this, and do not mean to offend anyone by coming off as anything but trying to be helpful by providing information to save money for those that choose to buy OEM Audi parts.
For that reason and from the posts above, this is a good opportunity to price out the Audi OEM parts for the 2.7 basic belt job, at internet discounted prices off retail.
Cam belt 078-109-119-J retail 77.00, sale price 57.29
roller for belt 078-109-244-H retail 84.00 sale price 62.50
tensioner for cam belt 078-109-243-S retail 120.00 sale price 89.28
tensioning damper 078-109-479-E retail 228.00 sale price 169.63
water pump 078-121-006-AX retail 127.20 sale price 94.64
I know these prices may still be higher than some of the other brands that people have had good luck with. I look at it like over the course of the 60-75 or higher (depending on the engine) thousand miles you drive the car, the extra amount paid is minimal for the peace of mind you get.
I appreciate the time you took to read this, and do not mean to offend anyone by coming off as anything but trying to be helpful by providing information to save money for those that choose to buy OEM Audi parts.
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