Torn CV Boot Wooes
#1
Torn CV Boot Wooes
So I just finished up my 3rd day of attempt to replace my Torn CV Boot on the front passenger side, 2.7T 2004 A6, 48,500 miles. Here's how it's gone so far...
Pinch bolt has managed to avoid moving despite 2ft breaker bar, 4lb sledge, air hammer, and soaking with PB (have been hitting it everyday for a week now).
So I decided to try the rear lower control arm, but without the proper tool I didn't get far.
Universal Ball Joint Separator
Item: MK-1727 $37.00
So I'm wondering, can I release the rear lower control arm from the chassis and get the axle to swing out of the way? (See pictures) This is my last resort before either ordering the tool or heading to the local mechanic.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Pinch bolt has managed to avoid moving despite 2ft breaker bar, 4lb sledge, air hammer, and soaking with PB (have been hitting it everyday for a week now).
So I decided to try the rear lower control arm, but without the proper tool I didn't get far.
Universal Ball Joint Separator
Item: MK-1727 $37.00
So I'm wondering, can I release the rear lower control arm from the chassis and get the axle to swing out of the way? (See pictures) This is my last resort before either ordering the tool or heading to the local mechanic.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
#3
Yes, you can (and should!!!) remove the lower control arms from the chassis. That is the fastest way of getting this job done.
Now, tough question, didn't you search on this before starting? I have answered this question many times before and am curious why it didn't come up in a simple search.
Good luck,
Bob
Now, tough question, didn't you search on this before starting? I have answered this question many times before and am curious why it didn't come up in a simple search.
Good luck,
Bob
#4
Powerbuilt Tools Kit 03 Ball Joint and Tie Rod Removal Set (6 piece)
Yes, you can (and should!!!) remove the lower control arms from the chassis. That is the fastest way of getting this job done.
Now, tough question, didn't you search on this before starting? I have answered this question many times before and am curious why it didn't come up in a simple search.
Good luck,
Bob
Now, tough question, didn't you search on this before starting? I have answered this question many times before and am curious why it didn't come up in a simple search.
Good luck,
Bob
That said, (your vote of yes is huge!). I want to make sure I can get the bolt free from the chassis, which requires lowering the rear sub frame. I've read that I can lower it by 1inch and should be able to get the bolt out from there. Does that sound right? Also, "lowering the rear sub frame" just sounds scarey, but I assume it's not an issue to go down 1 inch? Can it be completely removed if needed? I've attached a picture that shows the 3 bolts to unscrew.
Also, can the same technique be used on a 2005 2.7T All Road (my dad's ride)?
Last edited by deem2000; 05-01-2011 at 10:55 AM.
#5
One one side, you have to lower the rear of the sub-frame about an inch. It's a piece of cake.
Forget the seperator, you won't need it. You WILL have to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle to get enough rotation to get the end of the axle past the bearing pack. Remove the through bolt (which can be troublesome like the pinch bolt), loosen the top bolt and tap on it, loosen some more, tap some more, etc. until the bolt is out then whack on the tie rod end and it will come out.
Not sure about an '05 All Road, but I would bet, yes, the technique would be the same.
Good luck,
Bob
Forget the seperator, you won't need it. You WILL have to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle to get enough rotation to get the end of the axle past the bearing pack. Remove the through bolt (which can be troublesome like the pinch bolt), loosen the top bolt and tap on it, loosen some more, tap some more, etc. until the bolt is out then whack on the tie rod end and it will come out.
Not sure about an '05 All Road, but I would bet, yes, the technique would be the same.
Good luck,
Bob
#6
Hi, have replaced both outer CV boots on the front of my 2003 A6 without removing or disasembling any of my control arms. Here's how I did it...1- you remove the axle nut from the car prior to lifting the car from the ground 2- after its loose and the car is securely up in the air you remove the nut that secures the outer tierod end to the spindle and then lift/free the tierod end from the spindle. 3- Once this is done, there will be enough travel in the spindle to turn it either hard right or hard left..by hand and pull the outer portion of the axle shaft from the hub/spindle.
This procedure worked for me on both the passenger and driver side, plus it saves the cost of having to pay for a wheel alignment afterwards.
This procedure worked for me on both the passenger and driver side, plus it saves the cost of having to pay for a wheel alignment afterwards.
#7
Thank you all for your help. Unfortunately, I was unsuccessful in the end (my wife talked me into giving up on it, I'm a new dad and would rather spend time with my daughter anyways).
So I decided to give it up the local mechanic (non Audi dealer). However, I'm not sure that was the best idea. They removed the pinch bolts, but ended up cutting the knuckles up fairly bad in the process. I have included the pictures below. My concern is safety. Can you please review the pictures and let me know what you think?
The driver's side is considerably more damaged. You'll also notice in the pictures that they cut the control arm pin that is held by the pinch bolt. They also cut the boot of the upper control arm on the passenger side.
So I decided to give it up the local mechanic (non Audi dealer). However, I'm not sure that was the best idea. They removed the pinch bolts, but ended up cutting the knuckles up fairly bad in the process. I have included the pictures below. My concern is safety. Can you please review the pictures and let me know what you think?
The driver's side is considerably more damaged. You'll also notice in the pictures that they cut the control arm pin that is held by the pinch bolt. They also cut the boot of the upper control arm on the passenger side.
#8
My advice:
Never ever go back to that so called "mechanic".
Regarding safety: I can't tell you how safe your ride is now but I wouldn't trust it until you replace that control arm on both sides. I also wouldn't consider bringing that car back to them to fix it, who knows what they cut or damage in the process of "fixing" this.
Never ever go back to that so called "mechanic".
Regarding safety: I can't tell you how safe your ride is now but I wouldn't trust it until you replace that control arm on both sides. I also wouldn't consider bringing that car back to them to fix it, who knows what they cut or damage in the process of "fixing" this.
#10
As a shop owner, I can't believe they did that. Did they even speak to you before doing the cutting? There are suspension systems that use a pinch method like that, but Audi did not design them in this manner. Seeing as you are a new father. I just simply wouldn't trust having my child in the car with modification like that. Looks like they are the aluminum uprights as well, just a bit more expensive. Call Bryan at Tullin Concepts, he should be able to get you the uprights and control arms. You can buy a control arm kit off ebay for around $300, comes with tie rods, control arms, etc.