CHECK YOUR FUSES! I was changing a fuse when my cig lighter blew, so I borrowed one from another spot (15 AMP). I pulled the wrong fuse and the same thing happened to my car! The PDRN lit up and the tranny was very sluggish. When I put the fuse back in, it stayed lit until I turned the car off and started it back up and the tranny problem went away. It was a 15AMP fuse in the 30 something range (fuse# 33, 36, 39 or something). I don't know if it will help but I just thought I'd share. I hope that's all it is.

 

Hi, Guys,

Thanks for all of your insight thus far.

I got an OBD reader and it popped a P0730 "Incorrect Gear Ratio" code.

I still have park, reverse and limp mode. Does the code cause any of you to go "ahhh, now I know...."

 

You can get an ATF refill kit from www.blauparts.com . Also, they have instructions. You also need VAG_COM from www.ross-tech.com to check the transmission temperature as specified in the BentleyPublishers.com Audi shop manual CD.

 

I'm still getting to know my 4.2 but my tranny started slipping in reverse this summer. Unfortunatley, with transmissions, if they are already going out, then you change the fluid, it just makes it worse. The old fluid acts kinda like glue (from all the gunk and metal shavings) for the clutch packs (???). It kinda holds it together. When you put new fliud in, it just makes them slip that much more. I hope I'm wrong, but sounds like tranny time. I need a new one, and I have the same mileage as you.

 

So a little update on my situation. A quick stop to the local shop and 325 dollars later I am being told i need a new transmission..... The odd thing about it that as the transmission warms up it actually starts working better. Ive had a ford pick-up and a Chevy pick-up go through transmissions and they all worked good when they were cold and got worse as they warmed up. Makes me wonder. They also said that were not comfortable rebuilding transmissions only replacing them.

What sucks most is it worked fine the night before and then BAM the next morning no reverse. I connect my VAG and got a P1790??? code... I cant fully remember because the shop cleared it and it hasn't came back. The code was a transmission code thou.

Living in Alaska does have its short comings, mainly lack of an Audi dealership close by.

 

I've come across a couple refernces to LLTek intake and MAF for 4.2, but all I find on their website is bodyparts- can you provide a URL for some more info?

 

No affiliation:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-...mZ350117328288

 

Ah, i am having this simular issue on my '00 4.2, and yes it is the transmission, second gear is gone in mine from the clutches being burnt up, now i have to replace the trans and the trans controller.

 

I have a 2.8 A6 which has 145000 miles. Would anyone suggest me changing the transmission fluid. I bought all the parts including;filter,gasket, 6 quarts of pentosin atf 1.I am worried about the high mileage

 

If you don't have any of the symptoms described in this thread, probably it is better to change the fluid, instead of letting it build up more gunk.

Since it is a closed system, constantly moving the same contaminants around actually helps building up the gunk that ends plugging/burning up the clutch packs.
Good lubrication is achieved with a clean fluid, free of abrasive particles. Isn't the same with the engine oil? Why do we change the engine oil for?
Does it in any year Audi Maintenance Schedule say "zero service required"? I remember seeing schedules posted here on the forum that showed servicing the fluid at 75,000 or 90,000 miles.

Most transmissions probably start to fail because of gunk build up, and/or leaks that lower the fluid's level. So much for a "sealed" system that in theory is suggested to need no servicing... Driving mannerism should also be taken into account.

I know I will change mine (I have + 150,000 miles) as soon as the weather warms up. I will let you know if the clean, fresh fluid funked up the tranny or not.