I have a 2000 2.7. I'm getting ready to get the timing belt, alternator, starter, water pump, shocks, tie rods and all that done. Should I replace the vacuum hoses? How many are there and where are they located? Thanks.

 

You should have a diagram on the bottom of the hood, close to the windshield.
It should be a diagram somewhere around posted by HXGaser or PPPgoal.....can't remember exactly who provided the scanned pic (sorry guys).

Anyway, I don't know how exactly a 2.7 engine looks like, but if you locate the big wad of vacuum hoses by the purge valve (passenger side), you can follow them as are color-coded(unless they were replaced previously).
Brown - to the EGR valve
Light Green - to the Vacuum reservoir (below the PS Pump in the front of the engine)
Black - to the Throttle Body
Dark green - to the back of the manifold + Fuel pressure regulator via a Y connector
Blue - To the Cruise control Pump

Are also bigger diameter rubber hoses:
- one from the purge valve to the throttle body
- one from the front of the manifold via check valve (Spider hose) to the brake booster + Breather hose (driver side)
- one coming from? to the throttle air pump (blue-black colored)

There are some other ones under the cowl, behind the firewall, but I didn't mess up with those at all.

 

i think you should go for replacement.......when you are going for so many changes go for this also.

 

I would disagree with aliyork35 because, if something goes wrong, you won't know where to start. Also, the vacuum lines can be replaced from the top and don't require the front to be disassembled so I would attack this in stages: your list minus the tie rod ends first, tie rod ends and control arms second and the spyder pipe and vacuum lines third. You should also replace the cam seals, cam tensioner seals and valve cover gaskets while you are replacing the TB.

Have fun!

Bob

 

LoL. Thanks guys. I appreciate the info. Bob, I don't know how much fun I'm gonna have, but I will try.

 

I posted a diagram for a 2.8 ATQ, but I don't have one for 2.7. As for the replacement, do one at a time. Just replace the entire section. You can order audi specific line from the web, or just go get rubber type from you local automotive parts shop. I actually prefer the rubber type because it seems to be less brittle after time. (If you are loaded, then you can get silicone type, but I think that is overkill.)

On 2.8 there are some solid plastic lines which tend to become brittle and break easily. You can replace the whole section with the flexible line.

 

If you are going to do this amount of work, you really should have a manual available. It will give you torque values and pretty pictures... one should be a vacuum diagram.

Is there a reason you are replacing the alternator? It doesn't have to be removed to do any of the other work, is expensive, and rebuilt ones are not as reliable as the one that is already in there. (As long as it still works.) I put alternators on the list of items that are "run to fail." (IE If it ain't broke....) Same goes for the starter. Now if you wanted to clean the electrical connections.... I might see the value in that.

OBTW, When I tried to get a few of the "formed" vacuum lines from the dealer, they told me they no longer carry them. (At least the ones I wanted.) They told me the listing said to use fuel line... "obtain locally."

 

definitely do them, I got my Vac line from www.ecstuning.com they have the braided OEM line. I ordered the larger roll. You will also need some hard line available at every auto parts store (it's the only vac line they have at the wax/shine auto stores) Most of the hard line will break when you push it out of your way.

I just do a section at a time, remove a piece size it up and put a new one in it's place. You may want some small zip ties in case you feel one is not getting a good fit you can clamp the end with a little zip tie.

Here's the vacuum diagram for a 2000 2.7t;

 

Man, that's a lot of vacuums! Thanks for the diagram. Since I'm doing the timing belt and pump, I just thought it may be a good idea to change the starter and alternator while I was in there. They both work fine to my knowledge, but they are 10 years old. I was told that the front of the car would have to be taken apart again if they failed after I got the belt done. I have 111K miles the car now. Thanks for all the input.

 

I THINK my mechs told me they had to undo the P side motor mount to lift the engine enough to remove the starter, but that is on a '97 A6. Alternator, I don't think you gotta tear the car apart, but what the hell do I know?

I do know that my last '90 Audi went near 250 thou with the original starter and alternator. DID have to replace the tranny, tho, after giving it to the grandson.

Cheers,

George