q7 transmission jerk
#1
q7 transmission jerk
Hi everyone, I've owned a 2007 Q7S line black edition for just over a year now. its covered just 114000 miles . Recently its started a quit bad jerk through the gear change after traveling around 12 miles, its not constant and never happens when engine is cold. It has paddle shift on the steering wheel and sport mode on the gear stick. It also sometimes revs high like its gone into nutral before finally shifting to the next gear. Any ideas on how to fix the issue?
Many thanks in advance
Many thanks in advance
Last edited by beetie; 01-20-2019 at 03:25 PM.
#2
Hi everyone, I've owned a 2007 Q7S line black edition for just over a year now. its covered just 114000 miles . Recently its started a quit bad jerk through the gear change after traveling around 12 miles, its not constant and never happens when engine is cold. It has paddle shift on the steering wheel and sport mode on the gear stick. It also sometimes revs high like its gone into nutral before finally shifting to the next gear. Any ideas on how to fix the issue?
Many thanks in advance
Many thanks in advance
Interesting.
Mine will also jerk, but only when its cold and at low speeds, usually until the car warms up.
Im just chalking it up to cold transmission fluid.
Start by checking your tranny fluid level. See any leaks?
#3
Hi everyone, I've owned a 2007 Q7S line black edition for just over a year now. its covered just 114000 miles . Recently its started a quit bad jerk through the gear change after traveling around 12 miles, its not constant and never happens when engine is cold. It has paddle shift on the steering wheel and sport mode on the gear stick. It also sometimes revs high like its gone into nutral before finally shifting to the next gear. Any ideas on how to fix the issue?
Many thanks in advance
Many thanks in advance
#4
Tranny issue
I have the 2007 Q7 same as the below thread (cut and pasted here). It is almost as I had wrote it... Just got the car back from Audi after a flush and ATF change but same issue as soon as the ATF gets hot. I need to go easy on the accelerator or it jumps into neutral until you let the revs down and it re'engages. There was no resolution to the below thread.
Anybody had similar issue and resolved would be mighty helpful, I tend to think it could be a solenoid or electrical issue now.
Previous Quote (different thread)
01-17-2014, 03:39 PM
audi.q7
audi.q7 is offline
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1
Default Gearbox problems Audi Q7Hi all,
I have a Audi Q7 -2007 with the Aisin 09D transmission. The problem is that sometimes when changing gear the transmission will create a loud banging/knocking sound and miss the gear. The rev goes up and it sounds like it is trying to engage the gear several times. As soon as I let go of the throttle and the rev goes down it will engage the gear. It can happen when changing to any gear. Using Tiptronic mode doesn't help. The problem is more frequent if I'm accelerating heavily.
The odd thing is that when the car is cool the transmission works without any issues, it only happens when warm! No error codes has been found. I have changed the oil in the transmission but it didn't help.
I'm thinking it might be something in the valve body or the TCM.
Anyone with similar problems and got it fixed?
I deeply appreciate if someone has an idea of what's causing this...
Anybody had similar issue and resolved would be mighty helpful, I tend to think it could be a solenoid or electrical issue now.
Previous Quote (different thread)
01-17-2014, 03:39 PM
audi.q7
audi.q7 is offline
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1
Default Gearbox problems Audi Q7Hi all,
I have a Audi Q7 -2007 with the Aisin 09D transmission. The problem is that sometimes when changing gear the transmission will create a loud banging/knocking sound and miss the gear. The rev goes up and it sounds like it is trying to engage the gear several times. As soon as I let go of the throttle and the rev goes down it will engage the gear. It can happen when changing to any gear. Using Tiptronic mode doesn't help. The problem is more frequent if I'm accelerating heavily.
The odd thing is that when the car is cool the transmission works without any issues, it only happens when warm! No error codes has been found. I have changed the oil in the transmission but it didn't help.
I'm thinking it might be something in the valve body or the TCM.
Anyone with similar problems and got it fixed?
I deeply appreciate if someone has an idea of what's causing this...
#5
My 2012 Q7 S-Line just started having the same problem. It initially was stuck in park and I couldn't get the shifter to move. I could hear the lockout solenoid clicking under the shifter when I pressed the brake. It also threw TPMS and traction control warnings on the display.
Once I did get it into gear and tried to drive it, it jumps between gears and neutral while driving and the RPM jumps around.
I also found that if I turned the ignition on (but didn't start the car) I could hear a strange clicking noise coming from the transmission itself. If I put my hand on the transmission oil pan I could feel the vibration from the clicks.
VCDS showed errors for intermittent communications to the transmission control module initially. The strange thing was that after I cleared DTCs and then drove it (while it was exhibiting the gear jumping behavior) no new codes were generated. Occasionally the car seems to work just fine. Not sure if the TCM is the issue. I'm tempted to replace it. I hate to just throw parts at it but I don't know what the issue is. The nearest dealer is 1.5hrs away and I can't really drive it in it's current state.
Once I did get it into gear and tried to drive it, it jumps between gears and neutral while driving and the RPM jumps around.
I also found that if I turned the ignition on (but didn't start the car) I could hear a strange clicking noise coming from the transmission itself. If I put my hand on the transmission oil pan I could feel the vibration from the clicks.
VCDS showed errors for intermittent communications to the transmission control module initially. The strange thing was that after I cleared DTCs and then drove it (while it was exhibiting the gear jumping behavior) no new codes were generated. Occasionally the car seems to work just fine. Not sure if the TCM is the issue. I'm tempted to replace it. I hate to just throw parts at it but I don't know what the issue is. The nearest dealer is 1.5hrs away and I can't really drive it in it's current state.
#6
update from my Q7
SO, I have been through the mill, replaced ATF and filter at Audi, no change in jumping gears
Replaced the wiring harnesses at Audi, no change again but this may be one of your issues as it appears to be a common fault
Removed valve body, sent to MAKTRANS Poland, tested and repaired inc solenoids, received today (turnaround 8 days) putting it back in this weekend. Fingers crossed as nearly 2k Euro spent so far
I believe it was the right process, I would not just change solenoids without the valve pack being tested - huge risk. Hopefully you have the capability to have it refurbished in your country.
My understanding from the experts is the ATF expands when hot to a working temperature, this is why the jumping happens at that time. Doesn't matter - it needs to be fixed for safety sake.
Replaced the wiring harnesses at Audi, no change again but this may be one of your issues as it appears to be a common fault
Removed valve body, sent to MAKTRANS Poland, tested and repaired inc solenoids, received today (turnaround 8 days) putting it back in this weekend. Fingers crossed as nearly 2k Euro spent so far
I believe it was the right process, I would not just change solenoids without the valve pack being tested - huge risk. Hopefully you have the capability to have it refurbished in your country.
My understanding from the experts is the ATF expands when hot to a working temperature, this is why the jumping happens at that time. Doesn't matter - it needs to be fixed for safety sake.
My 2012 Q7 S-Line just started having the same problem. It initially was stuck in park and I couldn't get the shifter to move. I could hear the lockout solenoid clicking under the shifter when I pressed the brake. It also threw TPMS and traction control warnings on the display.
Once I did get it into gear and tried to drive it, it jumps between gears and neutral while driving and the RPM jumps around.
I also found that if I turned the ignition on (but didn't start the car) I could hear a strange clicking noise coming from the transmission itself. If I put my hand on the transmission oil pan I could feel the vibration from the clicks.
VCDS showed errors for intermittent communications to the transmission control module initially. The strange thing was that after I cleared DTCs and then drove it (while it was exhibiting the gear jumping behavior) no new codes were generated. Occasionally the car seems to work just fine. Not sure if the TCM is the issue. I'm tempted to replace it. I hate to just throw parts at it but I don't know what the issue is. The nearest dealer is 1.5hrs away and I can't really drive it in it's current state.
Once I did get it into gear and tried to drive it, it jumps between gears and neutral while driving and the RPM jumps around.
I also found that if I turned the ignition on (but didn't start the car) I could hear a strange clicking noise coming from the transmission itself. If I put my hand on the transmission oil pan I could feel the vibration from the clicks.
VCDS showed errors for intermittent communications to the transmission control module initially. The strange thing was that after I cleared DTCs and then drove it (while it was exhibiting the gear jumping behavior) no new codes were generated. Occasionally the car seems to work just fine. Not sure if the TCM is the issue. I'm tempted to replace it. I hate to just throw parts at it but I don't know what the issue is. The nearest dealer is 1.5hrs away and I can't really drive it in it's current state.
#7
SO, I have been through the mill, replaced ATF and filter at Audi, no change in jumping gears
Replaced the wiring harnesses at Audi, no change again but this may be one of your issues as it appears to be a common fault
Removed valve body, sent to MAKTRANS Poland, tested and repaired inc solenoids, received today (turnaround 8 days) putting it back in this weekend. Fingers crossed as nearly 2k Euro spent so far
I believe it was the right process, I would not just change solenoids without the valve pack being tested - huge risk. Hopefully you have the capability to have it refurbished in your country.
My understanding from the experts is the ATF expands when hot to a working temperature, this is why the jumping happens at that time. Doesn't matter - it needs to be fixed for safety sake.
Replaced the wiring harnesses at Audi, no change again but this may be one of your issues as it appears to be a common fault
Removed valve body, sent to MAKTRANS Poland, tested and repaired inc solenoids, received today (turnaround 8 days) putting it back in this weekend. Fingers crossed as nearly 2k Euro spent so far
I believe it was the right process, I would not just change solenoids without the valve pack being tested - huge risk. Hopefully you have the capability to have it refurbished in your country.
My understanding from the experts is the ATF expands when hot to a working temperature, this is why the jumping happens at that time. Doesn't matter - it needs to be fixed for safety sake.
#8
Hi Redline,
Re-Installed the valve body quite easily in a couple of hours, make sure you check every bolt when you get it back as I found one bolt loose. Had to purchase a 8 litre ATF pump for 220 Euro but made life easy to refill, I just put the equivalent new 9.4 Litres in that I drained, hooked the battery back up, drove it back & forward about 10 times in the yard, and left it in Reverse for 30 min while I washed it then went for a test spin and all seems great now. I have it booked in with a mechanic next week as I have to play with the MMI now so not driving it until it gets checked by them (fluid level and computer settings).
I would recommend you to go down this route if your car is jumping out of gear when driving, but you seem to be having a separate issue, the gear selector in the box is just a mechanical connection so if it was me, I would probably have an Audi mechanic do the work as they can investigate the electrical system quite easily
Re-Installed the valve body quite easily in a couple of hours, make sure you check every bolt when you get it back as I found one bolt loose. Had to purchase a 8 litre ATF pump for 220 Euro but made life easy to refill, I just put the equivalent new 9.4 Litres in that I drained, hooked the battery back up, drove it back & forward about 10 times in the yard, and left it in Reverse for 30 min while I washed it then went for a test spin and all seems great now. I have it booked in with a mechanic next week as I have to play with the MMI now so not driving it until it gets checked by them (fluid level and computer settings).
I would recommend you to go down this route if your car is jumping out of gear when driving, but you seem to be having a separate issue, the gear selector in the box is just a mechanical connection so if it was me, I would probably have an Audi mechanic do the work as they can investigate the electrical system quite easily
#9
Problem solved!
For anyone else that stumbles across this with a similar issue, I managed to figure this one out with a little help from a youtube video:
That individual was getting the same codes (01316 - ABS Control Module, 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent and 01315 - Transmission Control Module, 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent) and found that he had water leaking on the passenger side from the AC. The water had corroded a connection between three wires in a harness that runs under the carpet on the right-side of the passenger footwell.
I removed the passenger seat, the metal bracket that it sits on, and popped the plastic trim loose along the bottom edge of the door frame. I pulled up the edge of the carpet (I did not have to pull it all the way out) and it was fairly dry underneath but did have a hint of dampness. The wiring harness runs though a cable tray which I had to pop open. I then cut the zip tie at the forward end of the tray and unwrapped the fabric wrap from around the harness for 6 inches or so until I found the two wires that join into one. Sure enough, when I removed the black wrap from them they were very corroded and basically fell apart.
I cut the wires back until there was no evidence of corrosion and the copper looked new. I spliced in a new piece of wire and soldered and sealed the connections. I cleared the codes and drove the car and the issue is resolved! It shifts perfectly again and no codes came back. I am relieved as I was beginning to suspect a problem with the transmission valve body and/or solenoids which was going to be a difficult and expensive fix. Fortunately this was relatively easy. Now I just have to figure out how to clear out the AC condensation drain so it doesn't keep leaking!
That individual was getting the same codes (01316 - ABS Control Module, 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent and 01315 - Transmission Control Module, 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent) and found that he had water leaking on the passenger side from the AC. The water had corroded a connection between three wires in a harness that runs under the carpet on the right-side of the passenger footwell.
I removed the passenger seat, the metal bracket that it sits on, and popped the plastic trim loose along the bottom edge of the door frame. I pulled up the edge of the carpet (I did not have to pull it all the way out) and it was fairly dry underneath but did have a hint of dampness. The wiring harness runs though a cable tray which I had to pop open. I then cut the zip tie at the forward end of the tray and unwrapped the fabric wrap from around the harness for 6 inches or so until I found the two wires that join into one. Sure enough, when I removed the black wrap from them they were very corroded and basically fell apart.
I cut the wires back until there was no evidence of corrosion and the copper looked new. I spliced in a new piece of wire and soldered and sealed the connections. I cleared the codes and drove the car and the issue is resolved! It shifts perfectly again and no codes came back. I am relieved as I was beginning to suspect a problem with the transmission valve body and/or solenoids which was going to be a difficult and expensive fix. Fortunately this was relatively easy. Now I just have to figure out how to clear out the AC condensation drain so it doesn't keep leaking!
#10
Hi dbyrne989! My 2006 Q7 V6 3.0 TDI with 323.000 miles is now beginning to show signs of tiredness... My Gearbox (only when the car gets warmer) shifts poorly, like punching or going in neutral for a few seconds than shifting... Do you think the solution of the problem was changing the valve body? Do you think I should try for mine too?